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Hurricane 3 Advice please

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    Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:49pm
Of all those I tried I hate the butterfly chack 2 and 3 worst glues to deal with. I've been using donic vario, neottec, finezip, rev 3, Falco optium, gewo hydrotec, and DHS no15. They all worked fine with boosters. Now note some of these are thinner, but if gave me no issues
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:15pm
There's also another reason behind that being you over boosted and it's just insanely curling. Also even if it's domed you need at least 3 layers of glue to make sure it doesn't come off. 1 thin layer and dry it fast. Then a thicker layer dry it fast. Finally 1 final thick layer and dry. After that just roll it on slowly onto the blade face. It'll be bouncy for a few sessions if you roll it on while it's domed but once you break it in it disappears
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:13pm
That makes no sense. Most water based glues are the same. Some are thicker like the finezip and rev 3 thicker version. It domes because it's not dry yet and because of the booster sinking into the sponge. It doesn't stay domed forever. Falco just takes a long ass time to undone a bit. Hence why I blow dry it to dry the oil faster.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chop4ever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:10pm
Originally posted by ProtossTT ProtossTT wrote:

Oh lol makes sense. Yeah that's kind of odd the harder the sponge the harder it is to attach?.....

Depends on the using glue
booster name
sealant layer of blade
hardness of your rubber

for example

BTY glue + Falco Long + Thick sealant, on any 39 degrees H3 which cause <15 degrees dome --> you can't glue it on the blade, impossible

FineZip + TRF or Nittaku Axel Speed + no sealant. Any D42 H3 could work, even >30 degrees dome.
There is no real "pro", "prov" or "NT" H3 in the market.
Falco is not a booster
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 10:13pm
Oh lol makes sense. Yeah that's kind of odd the harder the sponge the harder it is to attach?.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 10:08pm
Originally posted by ProtossTT ProtossTT wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
I think a booster will  either make the sponge softer or the same and not harder. Am I wrong?

It makes it softer but most people use 40+ degrees h3 neos and then boost to keep the control yet make it much spinnier than per se a normal not boosted h3 neo. Also if you boost a normal 39 degrees or 37 it's too mushy for fh usually. 
I said the above because I didn't really understand what Mykonos is saying - if he can't glue a boosted H3 means he can't attached a H3 (unboosted) at all (by his statement)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
I think a booster will  either make the sponge softer or the same and not harder. Am I wrong?

It makes it softer but most people use 40+ degrees h3 neos and then boost to keep the control yet make it much spinnier than per se a normal not boosted h3 neo. Also if you boost a normal 39 degrees or 37 it's too mushy for fh usually. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 9:51pm
Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
I think a booster will  either make the sponge softer or the same and not harder. Am I wrong?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 7:01pm
Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade


You need to wait for it to fully dry it takes about a week on average. I rush and only wait 4 days while blow drying it every day for a few hours. Then glue it on with a foam brush from any arts and craft store. Do a quick layer blow dry it then add another. Repeat for 3 layers total. Place a cutting mat and get a roller or object to roll your rubber with then start from bottom slowly rolling it on. You can place it under a book or heavy object in case it doesn't stick 100%. Once it's on you need to have a good practice session with it then if you still don't like it or it has dead spots simply remove and take off the glue layer. Reglue and roll back on
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mykonos96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 6:01pm
Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/14/2019 at 10:41am
finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mykonos96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/02/2019 at 8:12am
Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by ericd937 ericd937 wrote:

The H3 Neo I received from him was sealed in original packaging. Just a commercial sheet as far as I could tell. 

As long as you use that one, you will find out its consistency and durability are so different from the others, even "NT or Prov" versions.
However, the original version (non-neo) is the best, as I only use the original one (and suggest to my students to use)

The secret is, non of actual pro Chinese players use the rubbers you could buy from the market, with the label "pro" and "NT".

The learning players (but their level is higher than everyone here) use "normal" H3
The provincial team players (their ranking is around 100 of the world ranking) use "normal" H3
The NT B team players use "normal" H3 sometimes.

So why the * a so low player on Earth is seeking for NT H3???

The main difference from the H3 using by Chinese players is, it has been chosen carefully by the coach among real H3 sheets.

There is nothing about booster.
But wrong booster will cause worse result.






How many provincial team level players are in china?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/02/2019 at 1:35am
Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by acpoulos acpoulos wrote:

Boosted my new H3 Neo orange sponge with a small amount of Australian Tea Tree Oil (yes, you read that right). It soaked right in, and a few hours later the rubber domed up quite nicely. Will try it out Tuesday...

It is one of my secrete ingredient...

probably smells better than any other booster out there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chop4ever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/01/2019 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by acpoulos acpoulos wrote:

Boosted my new H3 Neo orange sponge with a small amount of Australian Tea Tree Oil (yes, you read that right). It soaked right in, and a few hours later the rubber domed up quite nicely. Will try it out Tuesday...

It is one of my secrete ingredient...
There is no real "pro", "prov" or "NT" H3 in the market.
Falco is not a booster
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bars Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/2019 at 3:24am
Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by fmarek fmarek wrote:


Can you explain the importance of proper gluing? Some people use multi-layer of glue to get more springiness out of setup. Booster also adds to the speed. What is the recommended way to glue boosted H3? Would you use both - boosting and thick glue or only one of these?

This is the matter of taste. And it must accompany with the blade and style.
For example, someone uses Viscaria, play close to the table, hit hard. He should use thick layer of glue + booster. Vice versa, a thin 5 flies blade doesn't need that thickness.




hi can you elaborate on this a bit. does the thick glue make it softer?more dwell? why would the other blade not want this also
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ThePongProfessor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/2019 at 2:08am
Originally posted by DreiZ DreiZ wrote:

Originally posted by patrickhrdlicka patrickhrdlicka wrote:

I played with classic speed-glued rubbers during my childhood (Vario, Mark V, Visco), and usual suspects when I started playing again as a middle-aged guy (Tenergy, MX-P, etc...) before switching to H8 and then H3, and seem to be doing fine with it. I think it is all about style, adaptability and understanding how to contact the ball (brushing versus hitting into sponge). H3 offers the best value among all rubbers imo, especially because the topsheet as excellent durability in terms of grip, as long as it is properly stored and cleaned. Regular orange H3 commercial for practice play (have never had any bubbles), and blue H3 Nat'l for tournament play (bubbles only after extended periods of play, and typically only after converting tournament sheets to practice sheets), not or minimally boosted. Is it for everybody? Probably not, but is it possible to get used to it at a later stage in life and still improve.  

What made you go to h3 from h8?
i just bought few sheets of h8 just to see how it will play without booster.

Initially, I followed the recommendation of my 2500-level friend from China. I did some side-by-side testing and found that my opening loops were spinnier with H3 compared to H8. In addition, I felt like having a little bit more safety on loops, whereas H8 has an edge if power-looping from mid-distance. Other factors that contributed in making me feel comfortable with H3 is its lower weight, greater sponge selection, and slightly better topsheet consistency (I was put off by a couple of very "plasticky" H8 topsheets in latter batches). The rubber switch was also a step towards tweaking my playing style towards becoming a more traditional FH looper rather than a flat hitter.  

Truth be told, though, I would be able to play within 50 rating points with either rubber. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/2019 at 12:21am
also i never noticed much difference between h3 neo comm sheets in terms of sheet to sheet variation, especially in weight. There is some tackiness variation but thats about it but everyone who used any h3  knew that.

Ive also tried the prov h3 neo version and which however felt better quality it didnt play much different from the comm version. 

Here are some h8 sheets i measured inside the package, since im not opening them yet but as you can see they are within 1g in weight.


Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm
USATT: 1725
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/2019 at 12:15am
Originally posted by patrickhrdlicka patrickhrdlicka wrote:

I played with classic speed-glued rubbers during my childhood (Vario, Mark V, Visco), and usual suspects when I started playing again as a middle-aged guy (Tenergy, MX-P, etc...) before switching to H8 and then H3, and seem to be doing fine with it. I think it is all about style, adaptability and understanding how to contact the ball (brushing versus hitting into sponge). H3 offers the best value among all rubbers imo, especially because the topsheet as excellent durability in terms of grip, as long as it is properly stored and cleaned. Regular orange H3 commercial for practice play (have never had any bubbles), and blue H3 Nat'l for tournament play (bubbles only after extended periods of play, and typically only after converting tournament sheets to practice sheets), not or minimally boosted. Is it for everybody? Probably not, but is it possible to get used to it at a later stage in life and still improve.  

What made you go to h3 from h8?
i just bought few sheets of h8 just to see how it will play without booster.
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote igorponger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 11:43pm
ITTF LOOKING TO ENFORCE SAMENESS OF THE SPONGES.

ITTF gonna to end DHS production of and marketing Hurricane rubber series with the so many combinations. (a variety of 14 different sponges being attached to a H3 topsheet, --some insane proliferation of H3 rubbers, indeed).
ITTF will allow DHS to only market one type of standard H3 with a same sponge of 40 degree.   No more "Neo" "Provincial" "National" H3 versions.   Just a generic H3 topsheet combined with 40* sponge of any color.   Such a minimization of sponge selection would be to everyone's special benefit and better playing consistency.

As an example to praise, a good many of ESN rubbers, such as Andro RASANTER series, have been using this "sameness principle" for many years to a better satisfaction of Andro's customers.
03 -037 Rasanter R37   In
03 -039 Rasanter R42   In
03 -041 Rasanter R47   In
03 -042 Rasanter R50   In

/Be happy/




Edited by igorponger - 11/27/2019 at 12:12am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racquetsforsale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 7:15pm
His last response actually gave his previous post much needed context:
He used to use H3 national boosted, which didn't perform consistently and the boosted effect didn't last. It also bubbled. The combination of all these negatives makes it trash, compared to the speed glue effect rubbers he mentioned.

Based on his previous post, I too got the impression that he said H3 is trash across the board out of the box.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fulanodetal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 7:00pm
"h3 is trash. Buy a sheet of joola or stay safe and play t05. it will save you money."

So basically you are telling everyone NOT to use H3, calling it "trash", because YOU don't know how to use it. How self centered is that??

FdT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ThePongProfessor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 4:21pm
I played with classic speed-glued rubbers during my childhood (Vario, Mark V, Visco), and usual suspects when I started playing again as a middle-aged guy (Tenergy, MX-P, etc...) before switching to H8 and then H3, and seem to be doing fine with it. I think it is all about style, adaptability and understanding how to contact the ball (brushing versus hitting into sponge). H3 offers the best value among all rubbers imo, especially because the topsheet as excellent durability in terms of grip, as long as it is properly stored and cleaned. Regular orange H3 commercial for practice play (have never had any bubbles), and blue H3 Nat'l for tournament play (bubbles only after extended periods of play, and typically only after converting tournament sheets to practice sheets), not or minimally boosted. Is it for everybody? Probably not, but is it possible to get used to it at a later stage in life and still improve.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunkeelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 3:49pm
And to all whom have doubts, Yes i tried h3 before. The blue sponge properly boosted. It has more dwell time than tenergy, better short game than tenergy. It's just overall a superb rubber. My shot quality is better, it's spinnier, i can control the placement better etc.... But at what cost? How much time and money i need to spend to keep the rubber on my paddle that way? next week that same rubber got bubble. 

Time and money that I could spend with family and do other stuff will go wasted if I were to be an h3 user at my level and planning to get better.


Edited by hunkeelin - 11/26/2019 at 3:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunkeelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 3:27pm
CNT are different than us. H3 is trash for learning adults like me(which consist of most of the forum members here). If you are a kid and you have a Chinese coach as guidance then sure use h3. They will teach you how to glue, boost, and buy you the right h3 from the right vendor. 

However, if it's a solo endeavor? h3 is a waste of time and it's garbage. You are already an adult, you got jobs, kids, wife/gf/fiance. Now you  are going to fume your house with glue and rubber laying around, constantly gluing, regluing, researching finding the right boosting formula just for you, etc.... It's a time wasting pitch that you will never get it right on your own. 

If you plan to use unboost h3 then ok fine. But never ever try to boost it. Once you bosot it and taste the increase in control, speed and spin you will always try to chase that feel and you will forget to improve your own techique, isntead you will try to boost, keep boosting it until you find that lost touch. It's like cocaine/meth. 

One week everything goes your way, your loop are powerful landing on the table with speed. Next week your shot just went suddenly went down the net when you think you are doing everything right. The question is, were you just having a bad day/week? or the boosting effect is gone? You never know. 

Do not use h3, just get a euro rubber and stick with it and improve your own technique. 



Edited by hunkeelin - 11/26/2019 at 3:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fulanodetal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 12:59pm
"- different weight with different h3. It's call h3 but it's actually a whole line of rubbers. "

Of all the gibberish that came out of your rant, this is the only line that is true.
It's more of a line of rubbers. Starting from the commercial version to the National Blue Sponge, and even the Nittakku Pro series.

I went through a mountain of rubbers in my search for a good fh rubber. I had a pile of about 40 rubbers that I had to discard for various reasons. Some were ok, others were unusable. Some were very good at one aspect but terrible at other aspects of the game. And of course theres the issue of rubber to blade pairing. H3 Nat Blue Sponge is the rubber that worked best for me. The Nittakku H3 Pro is also very good, and my second choice. And you don't HAVE to boost. That's just a myth.

I guess the CNT has not gotten the memo that H3 is crap. Poor guys!! LOL



FdT

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racquetsforsale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 12:29pm
I learned today that the lowly H3 is a trashy rubber used by the Chinese TT development machine to train tens of thousands of players in sports schools. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vanjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 9:42am
Obviously a good player can use anything to beat you (of, me). I will say, unless the player is good or significantly better than me I am always glad to play against H3 in a tournament. I know that for mid to lower level players such as myself that I will not receive as difficult a ball from such a player as the same player using butterfly or other modern euro/jap rubbers. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmarek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 7:47am
One guy in my club changes his H3 every 6 month and also keeps improving. Next time after I lose to him (and this is gonna happen tomorrow ... and pretty much 90% of club players are losing to him) I will enlighten him that he is playing with trash rubber on FH. 
It is so strange to read advice to exchange h3 to t05. And it's not about products, these rubbers are from such a different categories requiring such a different technique, so advice like this surprises me a lot (if not to say more) :)


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DHS Long 5, FH: 729 Battle II Gold H40, BH: Nittaku C1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penholderxxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 7:34am
' h3 is trash. Buy a sheet of joola or stay safe and play t05. it will save you money.


Reasons: 
- The same sheet of h3 plays differently the first day as compare to 3 weeks later.
- The same sheet of h3 boosted play different after weeks. 
- Bubbles 
- different weight with different h3. It's call h3 but it's actually a whole line of rubbers. 

At the end of the day i stick with tenergy/euro rubbers. Every six month i change rubber and i put on the weight and it's only +/- 1g exact. I feel like i never change rubber and keep improving my skill than wasting my time boosting, regluing, thinking about whether the boosting effect still lingers cause i miss the shot. 

I've been through this road, trust me. My biggest skill jump is when i ditch that cancer of a rubber. ' - hunkeelin


I would say this is a very unfair, harsh and unreasonable comment.
In the first place, one is about US$70 per piece ( Tenergy 05 ) and the other less than US$12 per piece ( DHS hurricane 3 neo commercial ).
There are perhaps tens of thousand around the world who use DHS Hurricane 3 and its variant; maybe even over a hundred thousand.
Apart from the monetary factor involved where not that many are as well dispensed as you; being able to change your higher priced rubbers every six months; there are those who play with their H3 for more than a year, it may be probably true that not all if any are up to your level of skills which require such exacting demands on the rubbers; that many are social or club players who enjoy their games, as much as you do.
Hope you will retract your unnecessarily nasty comments.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chop4ever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/26/2019 at 7:14am
Originally posted by hunkeelin hunkeelin wrote:

h3 is trash. Buy a sheet of joola or stay safe and play t05. it will save you money.


Reasons: 
- The same sheet of h3 plays differently the first day as compare to 3 weeks later.
- The same sheet of h3 boosted play different after weeks. 
- Bubbles 
- different weight with different h3. It's call h3 but it's actually a whole line of rubbers. 

At the end of the day i stick with tenergy/euro rubbers. Every six month i change rubber and i put on the weight and it's only +/- 1g exact. I feel like i never change rubber and keep improving my skill than wasting my time boosting, regluing, thinking about whether the boosting effect still lingers cause i miss the shot. 

I've been through this road, trust me. My biggest skill jump is when i ditch that cancer of a rubber.


Yes, H3 is trash. And all the points you have listed are correct.
Please note: H3 from the system that has prov and NT, blue sponge and some sort of specialty.
Falco is not a booster and it doesn't work with H3.

However I have different observations
-Without boosting, the consistency is remained unchanged for its life span.
-With good booster, peak performance lasts 1 month and not any difference
-Never has bubble before the topsheet worn out clearly seen the pips
-I have to choose to make sure 10 sheets as one
-There is no need to buy expensive one, $30 per sheet and last 2-3 months (>150hours)

Sorry but it seems you have bad exp with the "other" H3s, not the one I know
And Falco is trash.




There is no real "pro", "prov" or "NT" H3 in the market.
Falco is not a booster
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