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Dr. Neubauer Buffalo Test Report (with videos)

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Matt Pimple View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08/30/2015 at 11:39pm
Dr. Neubauer Buffalo Review (in comparison with Dr. Neubauer ABS)

Disclaimer: I received the rubber from Dr. Neubauer for testing

About the reviewer:
My USATT rating is around 1900. My strength is my forehand with which I score the majority of my points mainly through looping; my serve is probably above average for my rating. I play close to the table with blocking and looping. I play with frictionless anti on backhand, mainly for returning serve and blocking topspin loops.

Setup:
Both Dr. Neubauer antis were played in red with 1.2mm sponge on a Butterfly Schlager Light blade with Nittaku Hurricane III Neo max on forehand. I have played with the ABS for the last couple of years on various blades recently on Dr. Neubauer Hercules.

Description on Dr. Neubauer’s website:
Quote The perfect Anti-Spin combination between spin reversal and control
BUFFALO provides highly interesting playing characteristics thanks to a completely new rubber composition.

A long and tedious development program finally enabled us to combine the strong points of all our existing Anti-Spin rubbers. This results in an exciting new rubber that will set a new benchmark both for control and disruptive effect.

BUFFALO produces excellent spin reversal while blocking against topspin shots with a lot of rotation thanks to its completely frictionless surface. Also control was decisively enhanced to ensure safe and disruptive blocking close to the table.
In that regard BUFFALO can be considered as an alternative to our old frictionless long pimple rubbers especially as far as spin reversal is concerned.

Furthermore BUFFALO enables to produce deceptive attacking shots. The most effective technique is aggressive pushing on chopped balls but counter-attacking against float balls will also put pressure on your opponent.

All in all BUFFALO is a fantastic weapon for blocking close to the table – try it out!

Category:     Anti-Spin
Colours:     red +black
Sponge:     1.2 + 1.5 + 1.8mm
Speed:     55
Disruptive effect:     100
Control:     83
Category:     Anti-Spin
Colours:     red +black
Sponge:     1.2 + 1.5 + 1.8mm
Speed:     55


Appearance:
The surface of the Buffalo has kind of a mate finish similar to the ABS and it also appears to be the same sponge as the ABS which is fairly hard and dead. Many people believe it is the best sponge for frictionless antis. The Buffalo topsheet feels harder than the ABS but the most striking feature is the very short pips, much shorter than ABS or any other anti I have tested before like Grizzly or Gorilla. The Buffalo topsheet appears slicker than that of the ABS out of the package.

Weight:
The weight of the Buffalo with package was 69g, the rubber uncut was 39g and the cut rubber was 30g. I did not weight the ABS but the total weight of the blade felt very similar so the weight should be within a couple of grams.

Feel/Touch:
The Buffalo feels quite hard, definitely harder than ABS, but it also has a very direct and crisp feel. Long pips ox players might appreciate such a feeling. Too me it provides good feedback for the ball and quite like the more direct feel compared to ABS. Players who have played classic antis with soft sponge might not like this feel or at least will need to adjust

Speed:
The Buffalo is slow and I mean it is really slow, quite a bit slower than ABS. This is probably due to the combination of a hard topsheet with very short pips on the proven hard and dead ABS sponge. To me this is THE most outstanding feature of the new Buffalo as it can played on a fast OFF blade without any problem. The ABS seemed too fast on the Schlager Light and many blocks against fast loops went long with still drop in with the Buffalo. It is Buffalo to block very short against loops which I have not experienced like this with any other anti. It is still fast enough though to attack with

Control:
The Buffalo has the best control, also because it is so slow, of any anti I have tested so far. The control with ABS is good but with Buffalo it is great. I personally like the crisper more direct feel of it. However, you have to understand that it is still a frictionless anti so it takes quite some time to master it despite its very good control. However the Buffalo is less sensitive to the blade angle than the ABS and therefore it is easier to play with. Most frictionless antis including the ABS are quite sensitive to the blade angle so that the margins for error are smaller. This has definitely been improved with the new Buffalo.

Spin Reversal:
The reversal with Buffalo is absolutely brutal due to the hard and slick topsheet; it is definitely higher than with ABS which actually already has a pretty good reversal. I think it is on par with the reversal of Grizzly.

Throw Angle:
The throw angle of the new Buffalo is quite low and definitely lower than with ABS. This makes it possible to block loops very short and low over the net but it also allows to attack underspin with an aggressive push were the ball stays very low. On the same strokes ABS shows a higher throw and more adjustments have to be made. At the beginning I actually pushed a few balls into the net with Buffalo but you get used to the lower throw very fast and it makes it a more dangerous rubber.

Blocking:
This is what the Buffalo is made for and this is where it really shines. It does not block by itself, but with the right technique the block against topspin becomes a real weapon even better than with ABS. You have more control and can drop the ball shorter to disrupt the attacker but most importantly you can also block fast loop drives because it is so slow.

Attacking:
The Buffalo is certainly not primarily designed for an attacking style of anti-play like Grizzly for example, but on a fast blade attacking of underspin balls is actually very good. You can either attack underspin with an aggressive push or with kind of a “lift” where the ball is driven with a fairly open blade face. Both techniques will reverse the underspin into topspin. Even though the Buffalo is slower than ABS, I liked the attack with it more because it seems to have more margin for error which allows you to be more aggressive on the stroke. Again, if you primarily want to attack with anti, there are probably better options like Grizzly or Gorilla but blocking is much more difficult with those.

Conclusions:
After only one session, having played ABS for a couple of years, I immediately knew I would switch to the new Dr. Neubauer Buffalo. I played the ABS on faster OFF blades because I liked it for my forehand attack but then my anti play suffered so I switched to a slower blade (ALL+ to OFF-) but I did not like my forehand as much. Now with the Buffalo, because it is so slow, I can play an OFF blade and still control my backhand side nicely. I also like the high reversal coupled with the good control and seemingly less sensitivity to the blade angle, which is something most frictionless antis suffer. The Buffalo might not only be interesting for frictionless “veterans” but also for players coming from long pips ox or classic anti who want to make their game a little trickier.

Below you will find 2 videos showing some techniques the new Dr. Neubauer Buffalo on backhand. My practice partner in the video has a USATT rating of 2400.

1. Backhand drills, mostly block against loop to demonstrate reversal and how short you can block the ball:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_kg5vAUeP4

2. A couple of practice games
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnOoXyqiu2I
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/30/2015 at 11:54pm
The Video is taken with white walls background. I could not see the trajectory of the ball.
Also it is important to show Buffalo against heavy spin and weak spin.


Edited by osmar92 - 08/30/2015 at 11:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AcudaDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 8:56am
LOL...agree with osmar...can't even see the ball. You need to use an orange ball next time you make some videos with those white walls.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 11:44am
Originally posted by AcudaDave AcudaDave wrote:

LOL...agree with osmar...can't even see the ball. You need to use an orange ball next time you make some videos with those white walls.

Sorry guys, you got a point there. I noticed it too now. Since we practice with plastic balls (YinHe and Gambler) there are no orange available yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 1:19pm
Ditto on the videos Matt but great review. Made me consider switching from OX b/c I also want a blade w/ a fast FH but more control for blocking on the BH.  What did your training partner in the videos think of the Buffalo?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 2:24pm
Originally posted by kevo kevo wrote:

What did your training partner in the videos think of the Buffalo?

He thinks that the reversal is pretty heavy and tells me that the blocks are loaded with underspin. Also in general, he sometimes has trouble reading how much spin is on the ball.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by Matt Pimple Matt Pimple wrote:

Originally posted by AcudaDave AcudaDave wrote:

LOL...agree with osmar...can't even see the ball. You need to use an orange ball next time you make some videos with those white walls.

Sorry guys, you got a point there. I noticed it too now. Since we practice with plastic balls (YinHe and Gambler) there are no orange available yet.

Err toward underexposure with the camera and shoot from a higher camera angle. That probably won't solve the problem, but it should help.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 4:16pm
Originally posted by wturber wturber wrote:

Err toward underexposure with the camera and shoot from a higher camera angle. That probably won't solve the problem, but it should help.

Thanks Jay, will try that next time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asifgunz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 9:16pm
If your serve is above average for your rating at 1900; Then my serve is 2600+ easy, which obviously isn't true ha-ha.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/31/2015 at 11:11pm
Originally posted by asifgunz asifgunz wrote:

If your serve is above average for your rating at 1900; Then my serve is 2600+ easy, which obviously isn't true ha-ha.

Please remember that my opponent is around 2400 ad I know him well. So I know that te only serve which allows me to stay in the game is a short underspin serve. He will punish any long or topspin serve so I don't use them. Against players of my level I use a lot variation.
Why don't you show us a little video with your game?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p1ngp0ng3r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/01/2015 at 5:33am
Great review, Thanks Matt Pimple! 

Edited by p1ngp0ng3r - 09/01/2015 at 5:34am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sticharo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/01/2015 at 7:45am
Why all the negativity?

Great review Matt Pimple.....and thanks for the video.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/01/2015 at 11:25am
Thanks sticharo and p1ngp0ng3r!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/01/2015 at 1:43pm
Originally posted by p1ngp0ng3r p1ngp0ng3r wrote:

Why all the negativity? 

Because this is the internet.

I've played Matt Pimple and I don't recall his serves one way or the other.  But since I play with a hardbat, I'm not the best judge.  But he's a fairly analytical type of guy and if he's pretty convinced his serves give him an edge then he's probably right.

He faced his practice partner at a recent tournament and while I didn't record his match, you can see him playing a true competitive match in the background of this video which is a better situation from which to judge.  But even so, the level of his opponent probably limits some of his options. 




Edited by wturber - 09/01/2015 at 2:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/01/2015 at 2:25pm
Jay, thanks for posting the video of the tournament match.

Edited by Matt Pimple - 09/01/2015 at 2:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2015 at 1:07pm
Matt,
Can you share feelings on Buffalo vs Der mater. Beast or others?


Edited by osmar92 - 12/20/2015 at 1:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2015 at 3:40pm
Originally posted by osmar92 osmar92 wrote:

Matt,
Can you share feelings on Buffalo vs Der mater. Beast or others?


I have not tested any of the Der Materialspezialist antis so I can't compare to those. I have also played with ABS for a couple of years and tested Grizzly-ABS and Gorilla-ABS along the way and I believe I have already covered the comparison of those with Buffalo in my test report. If there is anything else in particular you would like to know please let me know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2015 at 3:49pm
THx,

For best reversal do you have any preference with respect  to the blade type( wood, carbon, and so on)


Edited by osmar92 - 12/20/2015 at 3:52pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2015 at 10:07pm
Harder and faster blades work better and give the best reversal. Balsa blades (faster ones) seem to work very well too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2015 at 11:20am
Originally posted by osmar92 osmar92 wrote:

For best reversal do you have any preference with respect  to the blade type( wood, carbon, and so on)

I would say in general stiffer and harder (not necessarily faster) gives better reversal. There are also some slower blades that work very well with slick anti like Nittaku Shake Defence, Kung Fu or Hercules and those are All-All+. With faster blades aggressive pushing and attacks in general become more effective. I personally don't like balsa blades with anti as the balsa effect not only kicks in when you want to play a fast shot but also when you receive a fast shot which makes blocking very difficult imho. I just don't like the balsa feel but other like our own haggisv seem to like it. The higher level (like 2400-2500 USATT) anti players from Germany I know all play carbon blades.
Another aspect to keep in mind also is to look at your overall game and analyze which side is dominating, forehand or bh. If you cover 75% of the table with your bh go for a blade that work perfectly with your anti but if your forehand is dominating too hard and stiff blades may not be the best choice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kolevtt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2015 at 5:02pm
Great job, Matt! Thanks for sharing your review, it is really useful!
I will try to find that rubber and test it myself, definitely!
May be you have experience with some more popular anti rubbers like Yasaka Anti Power.
 Currently I am using it in 2.0mm for blocking on the table and defense from distance, but I would like to have some newer product developed for the new balls and to be with higher control (less power). May be this rubber by the "d-r" in 1.8mm could be really good alternative.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2015 at 5:45pm
Originally posted by kolevtt kolevtt wrote:

Great job, Matt! Thanks for sharing your review, it is really useful!
I will try to find that rubber and test it myself, definitely!
May be you have experience with some more popular anti rubbers like Yasaka Anti Power.
 Currently I am using it in 2.0mm for blocking on the table and defense from distance, but I would like to have some newer product developed for the new balls and to be with higher control (less power). May be this rubber by the "d-r" in 1.8mm could be really good alternative.

Thanks kolevtt!
I am afraid I have never tested the YAP so I can't specifically comment on it. However, please be aware that the Buffalo is a frictionless anti which means that it has a completely slick surface hence producing massive spin reversal like the now banned frictionless long pips (like Dr. N Superblock). The YAP is a classic anti with residual grip on the topsheet so it essentially produces dead balls on blocking.
In my opinion frictionless and classic antis are quite type of rubbers which require different techniques and also playing styles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mjamja Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2015 at 5:49pm
Matt,

Could you describe briefly the differences in technique and style needed with the frictionless anti and the more traditional slight grip anti.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kolevtt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2015 at 6:34pm
Originally posted by Matt Pimple Matt Pimple wrote:

Originally posted by kolevtt kolevtt wrote:

Great job, Matt! Thanks for sharing your review, it is really useful!
I will try to find that rubber and test it myself, definitely!
May be you have experience with some more popular anti rubbers like Yasaka Anti Power.
 Currently I am using it in 2.0mm for blocking on the table and defense from distance, but I would like to have some newer product developed for the new balls and to be with higher control (less power). May be this rubber by the "d-r" in 1.8mm could be really good alternative.

Thanks kolevtt!
I am afraid I have never tested the YAP so I can't specifically comment on it. However, please be aware that the Buffalo is a frictionless anti which means that it has a completely slick surface hence producing massive spin reversal like the now banned frictionless long pips (like Dr. N Superblock). The YAP is a classic anti with residual grip on the topsheet so it essentially produces dead balls on blocking.
In my opinion frictionless and classic antis are quite type of rubbers which require different techniques and also playing styles.


Well, thanks again for your time and explanation, Matt!
I appreciate it!

Yes, I noticed you have posted clearly the friction skills of this new rubber.
I just found YAP is not enough good yet for the new plastic balls, that's why I asked you for comparison between them both (with Buffalo).
Okay, now I will know. Please note I am not using professional the Anti rubbers in my game.
I am using Anti rubbers just to support my partners with precise blocking on the table and to improve (return the power of) my muscles of the knee with more increased foot work in classic defense at mid-distance (I had a very serious knee surgery 2 years ago).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2015 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by mjamja mjamja wrote:

Could you describe briefly the differences in technique and style needed with the frictionless anti and the more traditional slight grip anti?

There are some strokes that can or maybe even should be played very actively with classic anti like counter, active block and chopping. Whereas when you block with frictionless antis (its major weapon) you need to use a passive technique; the more motion you have in your stroke the less spin reversal. Also, chopping is not very effective and much less controlled than with classic anti which is why you should play mostly at the table with frictionless anti. The game with frictionless anti is based on spin reversal why you only need 2 basic techniques: passive block on topspin, aggressive push on backspin. Attacking with frictionless anti is much more difficult than with classic anti. A lot of the higher level frictionless anti players (search for Simon Huth, Jens Gester or Maik Schonknecht on youtube!) have very good forehands. The game with classic anti is more based on control and placement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2015 at 6:53pm
Originally posted by kolevtt kolevtt wrote:

Please note I am not using professional the Anti rubbers in my game.

I am not either!
Originally posted by kolevtt kolevtt wrote:

classic defense at mid-distance

I don't think that Buffalo is particularly effective in a defensive game away from the table. I only do this in "emergency situation" when pushed away from the table. Buffalo is made for a blocking game at the table; that's where it is most effective.
Have you tried long pips for chopping away from the table, kolevtt?
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