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Dian Chi Booster Users - Questions

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realmisr View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10/13/2015 at 9:12am
Hi there,

Does anyone have recent experience with Dian Chi Booster? These questions are for boosting H3 Neo Prov Orange or National Blues. I have a few questions:

1 - How does it compare to falco long booster? Does it really play better?

2 - I use tear mender glue. Should I follow the same instructions in terms of adding 4 layers of glue first, then boost, and add another layer to glue on blade?

3 - The regluing process: It says to keep the original glue layers and just reboost on top and glue again. Since the boosting only lasts about 1 month...If I keep regluing and boosting on top of the leftover glue, wouldn't it get really sloppy or rather, build up a really thick layer of glue over time?

Would love to hear your thoughts, thanks!


Edited by realmisr - 10/13/2015 at 9:14am
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Argothman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 9:31am
It's going to be much better than FTL. Also, you don't have real national rubbers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote realmisr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 9:36am
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

It's going to be much better than FTL. Also, you don't have real national rubbers.


So you're saying the ones from prot.cc are fake?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MLfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 10:37am
When I boost, I usually either put only one glue layer or no glue layers beforehand. I've had poor experiences with using a thick glue layer before I boost. 

For reboosting, I definitely recommend taking the old glue layer off. Otherwise it gets too thick and doesn't play well. 

I think chinese boosters work best with chinese rubbers. But I've never used Falco so I don't know. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote realmisr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 11:24am
Originally posted by MLfan MLfan wrote:

When I boost, I usually either put only one glue layer or no glue layers beforehand. I've had poor experiences with using a thick glue layer before I boost. 

For reboosting, I definitely recommend taking the old glue layer off. Otherwise it gets too thick and doesn't play well. 

I think chinese boosters work best with chinese rubbers. But I've never used Falco so I don't know. 

Ah, thanks for your thoughts MLFan!

Anyone else care to share their experiences + process?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 42andbackpains Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 12:28pm
Originally posted by realmisr realmisr wrote:


3 - The regluing process: It says to keep the original glue layers and just reboost on top and glue again. Since the boosting only lasts about 1 month...If I keep regluing and boosting on top of the leftover glue, wouldn't it get really sloppy or rather, build up a really thick layer of glue over time?


Tip from one of the coaches at my club. When reboosting, you dont need to apply glue again to your rubber again. You only need to apply glue to the blade. The old glue on the rubber is sufficient to reapply the rubber. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote realmisr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 1:31pm
Originally posted by 42andbackpains 42andbackpains wrote:

Originally posted by realmisr realmisr wrote:


3 - The regluing process: It says to keep the original glue layers and just reboost on top and glue again. Since the boosting only lasts about 1 month...If I keep regluing and boosting on top of the leftover glue, wouldn't it get really sloppy or rather, build up a really thick layer of glue over time?


Tip from one of the coaches at my club. When reboosting, you dont need to apply glue again to your rubber again. You only need to apply glue to the blade. The old glue on the rubber is sufficient to reapply the rubber. 

Oh yes! I didn't even think of that...Thanks for this tip. That makes much more sense.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 1:47pm
Have you glued boosted rubbers with Tear mender before? I'm not sure it will be strong enough to hold a boosted H3. I use DHS #15 glue because it's very strong, and I only use tear mender on my backhand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote realmisr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

Have you glued boosted rubbers with Tear mender before? I'm not sure it will be strong enough to hold a boosted H3. I use DHS #15 glue because it's very strong, and I only use tear mender on my backhand.

Yea, I tried it on a 2 layer falco booster h3. I waited for the dome to come down a good amount, but it was plenty strong. I also use a press and leave it overnight, so I guess that helps too?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote the_theologian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 5:09pm
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

Have you glued boosted rubbers with Tear mender before? I'm not sure it will be strong enough to hold a boosted H3. I use DHS #15 glue because it's very strong, and I only use tear mender on my backhand.
 
I have boosted several rubbers after first applying two layers of tearmender. But, when I finally glue the rubber to the blade, I use rubber cement on both blade and rubber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 9:33pm
Am I doing something wrong? Whenever I glue a heavily domed rubber, even if I wait a day or two, it ALWAYS comes up at the edges and I have to reglue it when it settles down a bit. Yes, it's a strong dome, but other people like Schen glue rubbers directly when heavily domed and have no problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 42andbackpains Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 10:39pm
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

Am I doing something wrong? Whenever I glue a heavily domed rubber, even if I wait a day or two, it ALWAYS comes up at the edges and I have to reglue it when it settles down a bit. Yes, it's a strong dome, but other people like Schen glue rubbers directly when heavily domed and have no problem.

If you are having issues with Water Base Glue, then you might have to resort to edge tape. If you watch closely on videos, many pros use edge tape.  I was using edge tape when i was using speed glue. But since the switch to water based glue, i dont need the edge tape anymore since the bond is much stronger with water based glue. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MLfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/13/2015 at 11:05pm
I'm pretty sure it's not edge tape, but more of an issue of either your blade or your glue. I use finezip and never had any problems. I think DHS #15 is pretty good for gluing domed rubbers too. Basically a thick glue is good. But also, when I was using stiga rosewood/ebenholz, any blade with a polish on it, the glue doesn't glue the rubbers as well. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/14/2015 at 12:14am
I think I might need to sand my blade more, I sealed it a while ago, but I've been slowly sanding it for a while.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AgavE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/15/2015 at 5:09am
I use both boosters Dianchi and FTL, dianchi better on chineese rubbers.
About glue: if wbg liquid as dianchi, seamoon, revolution no3 (normal visc.) - you should apply 4 layers of glue, one by one with completly drying. Then you should apply booster. (4 times, not thick layers)
Wait until dome will be not so high (about 6 days) and apply one lay of glue on blade only.
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