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What determines speed, spin, and control?

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    Posted: 05/05/2016 at 11:20am
Is this the right way to think about it?

For rubber, theres tackiness and sponge hardness.
The tackier, more spin and less speed
The harder the sponge, more speed, less spin and less control.
How does tackiness effect control?

For blade, theres flex and hardness.
The more flex, more spin and less speed
The harder the blade, more speed and less spin?
How does flex and hardness effect control?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2016 at 11:41am
Refer to this post.  Most of the concepts transfer to blade.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2016 at 1:45pm
Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Refer to this post.  Most of the concepts transfer to blade.


I hadn't seen that one before, but it is quite interesting.

It seems to me there is always a human element in table tennis.  Because there are limits to how fine motor control can be, if a rubber is too fast no matter how hard you swing, then difference between sending the ball long or in the net requires an almost minuscule change in muscle effort.  That would be bad.  (This is also a bit of an over-simplification, but the idea is there).

It seems like an ideal rubber would be one that can generate plenty of spin but which also has the maximal "dynamic range" for lack of a better term.  If you could get a rubber that basically slows the ball down when you apply very little force, but which provides a maximum impulse to the ball when you swing really hard.  In other words, the player uses a larger portion of his own muscle strength to vary the amount of impulse he wants to impart onto the ball, but also one where the top end is very very fast. 

How fast at the top end?  How slow at the low end?  That may depend a lot on each player.  Oddly enough, as I get older, I prefer slightly faster equipment because I can generate more power while maintaining my balance after the shot, and I have played so many years that I can manage to control things when I am not trying to hit hard.  

I only know how those poperties come from empirically trying stuff (not so much anymore, since I kind of know what I like now). 

But I have no idea what the properties are of a rubber that actually give us those properties.  SO Zeio's post is very interesting to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berndt_mann Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2016 at 5:28pm
(Baal)  It seems to me there is always a human element in table tennis....

Good golly, I would certainly hope so.  Otherwise, why not just pair off one blade and rubber(s) against another blade and rubber(s) and may the better rig (setup) win. 




Edited by berndt_mann - 05/05/2016 at 5:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUCKYLOOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2016 at 6:20pm
Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Refer to this post.  Most of the concepts transfer to blade.


I hadn't seen that one before, but it is quite interesting.

It seems to me there is always a human element in table tennis.  Because there are limits to how fine motor control can be, if a rubber is too fast no matter how hard you swing, then difference between sending the ball long or in the net requires an almost minuscule change in muscle effort.  That would be bad.  (This is also a bit of an over-simplification, but the idea is there).

It seems like an ideal rubber would be one that can generate plenty of spin but which also has the maximal "dynamic range" for lack of a better term.  If you could get a rubber that basically slows the ball down when you apply very little force, but which provides a maximum impulse to the ball when you swing really hard.  In other words, the player uses a larger portion of his own muscle strength to vary the amount of impulse he wants to impart onto the ball, but also one where the top end is very very fast. 

How fast at the top end?  How slow at the low end?  That may depend a lot on each player.  Oddly enough, as I get older, I prefer slightly faster equipment because I can generate more power while maintaining my balance after the shot, and I have played so many years that I can manage to control things when I am not trying to hit hard.  

I only know how those poperties come from empirically trying stuff (not so much anymore, since I kind of know what I like now). 

But I have no idea what the properties are of a rubber that actually give us those properties.  SO Zeio's post is very interesting to me.


In my opinion, that would be a very sticky top sheet with a soft sponge 2.1

My DHS Hurricane 8 plays like that.
Hntr Fl / 4H & BH Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0
Yinhe T-2 / 4H Xiom Sig Pro 2 2.0 BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max
Gam DC / 4H DHS Hurricane 8 39deg 2.1 BH GD CC LP OX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote notfound123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2016 at 7:12pm
Originally posted by Bobobo Bobobo wrote:

Is this the right way to think about it?

For rubber, theres tackiness and sponge hardness.
The tackier, more spin and less speed
The harder the sponge, more speed, less spin and less control.


In addition to all of the above, pimple geometry plays a big role. If you compare T05 and T64- top sheet tackiness and sponge are exactly the same yet the rubbers play very differently because of pips spacing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tassie52 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2016 at 7:39pm
Originally posted by elsewhere zeio elsewhere zeio wrote:

The acquired data indicate that those topsheets whose thickness (without accounting for pip height) is below .6mm fare better in energy efficiency and shot direction. Those within the range of .2-.6mm, or even .3-.6mm are preferred in consideration of rubber strength.
In zeio's post, the Butterfly engineers don't mention tackiness as a factor.  Given there are both tacky and grippy surfaces, it's not tackiness alone which produces spin.

The article zeio is quoting seems to be pretty definite about the significance of topsheet thickness.  Where do we find the database for that?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote APW46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 5:28am
Control at the net and over the table with touch, is different to control against fast incoming, especially at mid to long range where a faster set up will allow a sharp return with little stroke production. Its not easy to get right, but the answer is not at the extremes of equipment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PointEngineer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 7:36am
Energy loss reduction is absolutely the goal.  Not sure if the study is suggesting this surface area issue as a frictional consideration or an elasticity (compliance) or both. I don't think there is much slip at all with high power spin contacts.  Would be interesting though to get empirical data (via very high speed observation) on the contact area point i.e. what sort area is required for a typical fast rubber for the no slip or only negligible micro-slip condition.    

I would say regarding 'tackiness' that it can slightly reduce spin (and speed), and probably only increases spin in the very light brush stroke case.

I don't really buy into most people's idea of control, and certainly not this longer contact (dwell) time implying greater control idea.  I sit in the camp of 1) too quick probably will be harder to control into a short length shot for most people, 2) too spinny will be harder for some people to control the direction of the shot, 3) too inconsistent based on contact position (eg distance sweet spot, on pip/off pip, irregularities in the composition etc) the more likely a player will not understand the results of a stroke (and consider as low control).


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 9:38am
Also, control of what?

In our sport there are so many shots, so many different ways to miss. Equipment contributes to missing in many different ways. So you are forced to compromise and optimize by trial and error, taking into account everything you do (and not just how it feels when you hit some forehand counters!).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 9:59am
Baal, when it comes to control, I can't help but feel reminded of a certain person whose motto goes along the line "blades don't have power unless you burn them."

As with all things, a word is only meaningful within a particular context.

Originally posted by Wikipedia Wikipedia wrote:

Indeed, one of the hallmarks of the ordinary use perspective is its insistence upon the distinctions between meaning and use. "Meanings", for ordinary language philosophers, are the instructions for usage of words — the common and conventional definitions of words. Usage, on the other hand, is the actual meanings that individual speakers have — the things that an individual speaker in a particular context wants to refer to. The word "dog" is an example of a meaning, but pointing at a nearby dog and shouting "This dog smells foul!" is an example of usage. From this distinction between usage and meaning arose the divide between the fields of Pragmatics and Semantics.



Edited by zeio - 05/06/2016 at 10:01am
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Victor_the_cleaner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 10:26am
Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Refer to this post.  Most of the concepts transfer to blade.

thanks, zeio. Had some fun reading some posts in that old thread. I feel these days I have less and less energy for such arguments .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 10:28am
Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Baal, when it comes to control, I can't help but feel reminded of a certain person whose motto goes along the line "blades don't have power unless you burn them."



Baal runs away screaming!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 10:35am
You're not alone.  It has been 6 years since I first posted.  Lately, I feel that every effort is futile whenever any controversial topics arise, especially those that involve equipment.  It is like perpetual motion that doesn't get anywhere.  It is taking the fun out of discussions.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 10:37am
Yes, zeio, but what is the best rubber to use with "the new ball"?  /s
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 10:54am
Nooooooo...not another topic about what is the best!

As the saying goes, "there is no best, only better.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ThePongProfessor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 2:05pm
Control is absolutely style- and player-dependent. 

Conventional wisdom would have that slow rubbers have the most control. Is that true? An aggressive two-winged looper will not be able to play meaningfully with very slow rubbers, whereas that would be the best equipment for a kid starting out. Somebody who plays with a lot of effort (Chinese style) requires different equipment than someone relying on rubber catapult for power in shots. 

It only truly makes sense to speak of 'control' for a specific style, e.g., two-winged looper, the FH flat-hitter, the old-fashioned chopper, etc..Different rubbers, different styles. It boils down to: what does a specific type of rubber allow you to do, and how does it compare to related rubbers in that category...

    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PointEngineer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by patrickhrdlicka patrickhrdlicka wrote:

Control is absolutely style- and player-dependent. 

Conventional wisdom would have that slow rubbers have the most control. Is that true? An aggressive two-winged looper will not be able to play meaningfully with very slow rubbers, whereas that would be the best equipment for a kid starting out. Somebody who plays with a lot of effort (Chinese style) requires different equipment than someone relying on rubber catapult for power in shots. 

It only truly makes sense to speak of 'control' for a specific style, e.g., two-winged looper, the FH flat-hitter, the old-fashioned chopper, etc..Different rubbers, different styles. It boils down to: what does a specific type of rubber allow you to do, and how does it compare to related rubbers in that category...
   

That I would suitability.  "Control over an intended (and not unrealistic) shot" is what I think of as control - which would be my suggested answer to Baal's very pertinent question.  And based on that the issues are how to create the correct trajectory, and the correct speed/spin based on how you have learnt to play with a given setup, and what you have estimated as the incoming shot characteristics.  Just as simple case example, a sandpaper bat would probably be considered to have great control to produce a medium pace targetted block,  against any spin shot without having to have read the spin that accurately - meaning it would not be too difficult to be confident of doing the shot repeatedly and relatively consistently.  Or a Tenergy 05 oriented setup would be great control for example in the case of wanting a regular production of low effort safe loop against any medium pace ball as long as the incoming spin was reasonably well estimated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Nooooooo...not another topic about what is the best!

As the saying goes, "there is no best, only better.

OK.  Which is the most more betterer?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by PointEngineer PointEngineer wrote:

 Just as simple case example, a sandpaper bat would probably be considered to have great control to produce a medium pace targetted block,  against any spin shot without having to have read the spin that accurately - meaning it would not be too difficult to be confident of doing the shot repeatedly and relatively consistently.  

Really?  Have you actually tried to block powerfully spinny loops with sandpaper?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote assam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 6:03pm
The betterer is the one you feel is the best for your own game. It changes from player to player
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NextLevel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 6:12pm
Originally posted by wturber wturber wrote:

Originally posted by PointEngineer PointEngineer wrote:

<span style="line-height: 1.4;"> Just as simple case example, a sandpaper bat would probably be considered to have great control to produce a medium pace targetted block,  against any spin shot without having to have read the spin that accurately - meaning it would not be too difficult to be confident of doing the shot repeatedly and relatively consistently.  </span>


Really?  Have you actually tried to block powerfully spinny loops with sandpaper?



Does he need to? After all, he is an engineer.
I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berndt_mann Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 6:35pm
Originally posted by wturber wturber wrote:

Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Nooooooo...not another topic about what is the best!

As the saying goes, "there is no best, only better.

OK.  Which is the most more betterer?


I believe that I can suggest an answer as to which is the most more betterer (Shakespearian that) with respect to reasonable speed, reasonable spin, excellent control and conducive to the return of the defensive and all-round approach to TT plus longer rallies, but I am not sure that the members of this forum, or any other TT forum save for one for that matter, are ready to acquiesce to my retrograde belief. 

Ah well.  Every male and female to choose for him/herself.  Lord knows that there are way more than a number of possible choices to choose from.  The hairy part is trying to figure out for oneself which is the most more betterer, that is if there is really a most more betterer.


Edited by berndt_mann - 05/06/2016 at 6:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by PointEngineer PointEngineer wrote:

"Control over an intended (and not unrealistic) shot" is what I think of as control - which would be my suggested answer to Baal's very pertinent question. 


Yes of course.

But THAT depends on the shot.  What is optimal for accomplishing high success in achieving intentions on one kind of shot will not be the thing that is optimal for another (say return of serve vs looping underspin vs flat hitting a higher ball).

Therefore, you need equipment that controls the shots you hit the  most very well, and you can sacrifice a bit on control of things you don't do very often.  That is why I am happy NOT using LP on my BH since I virtually never chop or push-block.

And therefore, as Patrick says, it is player- and style-dependent (bearing in mind, though, that every point begins with a serve and a return of serve).

Therefore control cannot be defined as a single standardized parameter.  Any single numbers you see for "control" of a blade or rubber should be ignored.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berndt_mann Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2016 at 9:26pm
Originally posted by assam assam wrote:

The betterer is the one you feel is the best for your own game. It changes from player to player


True, but IMO this does not go far enough.  The betterer is not only the one you deem best for your game, it is, or rather should be, one that is betterer for the sport of table tennis in general.
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