Boosting Neo rubbers

Kinda off topic:

Edited by Claudiu84 - 05/10/2017 at 5:16am

So, you apply booster on the factory glue (on Neo Version, because the old one doesn't have glue on it), let it dry, then remove the glue (who contain booster) and apply an other layer of glue?

There's plenty of threads in boosting methods already

If I remember correctly:

Water base glue first 1 layer
Booster - 1 layer
Dry - 12-24 hours
Booster again - 1 layer
Dry
Glue to blade

Another method is to remove the factor glue layer

But I think people don't do that because of fear boosters might penetrate into the pips side and loosening the glue creating bubbles

For general purposes in boosting Neo sponges.....  just leave the glue layer on especially if you have only removed the rubber 1 time from the first glue job.  Leaving a glue layer on the rubber then boosting will allow for a slower absorption into the sponge and yes.....it does go into the top sheet at various degrees pending on booster strength/type. 

General info on boosting.

It all depends on what booster you are using.  Different sponges react differently to different boosters.  Generally I have found that the ESN sponges react quickly compared to non ESN types like say.....Mark V, or rubbers that have the more tight or closed pores then the new gen stuff.  I have only boosted a few DHS rubbers, neo and non....the non neo's had a quicker and fuller reaction. 

That said,  when you boost for the first time with a sponge or booster you have not used before, just use 1 layer first and let sit overnight.  If you see a decent amount of reverse curl.....its most likely pretty well boosted.   You can do another layer to see what happens further, but you could chance wrecking the sponge pending on its hardness and also again, which booster is used. 

Now also watch for rubbers that dont reverse curl very much after a decent layer of booster.  Sometimes you just need a certain level of booster to make the sponge react to desired boost level.  Sometimes the sponges do not react much at all as far as expansion or change in bounce/liveliness.   Mark V was one for me with these types of results when I used Falco Long.  I had 2 other rubbers that did little with F long.....but cant recall which ones they were specifically...but the were not ESN rubbers for sure. 

Good luck with experimenting...just do it slow and be patient.  Search for any boosting topics on the rubber or booster before trying if you are not sure what will happen. 

As a Hurricane Neo user, I leave the glue layer on there. I add 1 layer of glue, let it try, put 5 layers of booster (not at the same time but in 24-48 hour intervals) and then wait for the rubber to uncurl to glue easier. Generally when I reboost, I put around 3-4 layers depending on it's playing characteristics.

1. 3 layers DHS no 15 glue (protect from bubbling)
2. 2 layers dianchi or haifu boost (20-30 min interval)
3. dry overnight (at least 6 hours)
4. 1 layer DHS no 15 glue on blade and glue on.

5. hit for few hours
6. reboost (1 layer) the following night if necessary (if still too hard)

I removed the factory glue from H3 Neo and put two layers of Seamoon -> by far the best rubber I have ever played with and its not even close.

Well, I am not new to boosting, but the few times I applied on a sponge​ without removing the old glue, the mess was disastrous. I just never thought of boosting my NEO stuff. I had them before the P-ball era.

Rich215 wrote: For general purposes in boosting Neo sponges.....  just leave the glue layer on especially if you have only removed the rubber 1 time from the first glue job.  Leaving a glue layer on the rubber then boosting will allow for a slower absorption into the sponge and yes.....it does go into the top sheet at various degrees pending on booster strength/type.  General info on boosting. It all depends on what booster you are using.  Different sponges react differently to different boosters.  Generally I have found that the ESN sponges react quickly compared to non ESN types like say.....Mark V, or rubbers that have the more tight or closed pores then the new gen stuff.  I have only boosted a few DHS rubbers, neo and non....the non neo's had a quicker and fuller reaction.  That said,  when you boost for the first time with a sponge or booster you have not used before, just use 1 layer first and let sit overnight.  If you see a decent amount of reverse curl.....its most likely pretty well boosted.   You can do another layer to see what happens further, but you could chance wrecking the sponge pending on its hardness and also again, which booster is used.  Now also watch for rubbers that dont reverse curl very much after a decent layer of booster.  Sometimes you just need a certain level of booster to make the sponge react to desired boost level.  Sometimes the sponges do not react much at all as far as expansion or change in bounce/liveliness.   Mark V was one for me with these types of results when I used Falco Long.  I had 2 other rubbers that did little with F long.....but cant recall which ones they were specifically...but the were not ESN rubbers for sure.  Good luck with experimenting...just do it slow and be patient.  Search for any boosting topics on the rubber or booster before trying if you are not sure what will happen.

You have mentioned different sponges but you assume that every booster is the same. In fact, different booster reacts many different ways...Falco is only one kind of booster, it is only a bit more popular than the others.

So I better remove first

Just a question on a similar topic: Does the Nittaku H3 neo rubber require boosting?

wanchope wrote: Just a question on a similar topic: Does the Nittaku H3 neo rubber require boosting?

Edited by liXiao - 05/11/2017 at 2:25pm

LiXiao, thanks! I thought I could just avoid boosing and still get tacky rubbers through Nittaku. Probably not.

Kolev, yes there is the Nittaku Hurricane 3, most likely to be a provincial version or similar, but cheaper than the DHS provincial H3.

How to boost your Neo rubber (one of a number of methods)

1. 3 layers DHS no 15 glue (protect from bubbling)
2. 2 layers dianchi or haifu boost (20-30 min interval)
3. dry overnight (at least 6 hours)
4. 1 layer DHS no 15 glue on blade and glue on.
5. hit for few hours
6. reboost (1 layer) the following night if necessary (if still too hard)'

Holy sweet freakin' Falco!  I didn't pay that much attention to helping raise my little brother (now a soon to be 64 year old 6'2" 220 lb. lawyer) and he turned out all right.  Are y'all sure all this trouble is absolutely necessary in order to play what started out as a pastime for bored British soldiers and then become a parlor game and brief fad and is now something that alchemists of old could stand up and cheer for.?   

In the early 1900s banjo batters (that is, vellum boys and girls) used ground glass or emery powder to speed and spin up their cut down battledores.  Couldn't this work with any version of a Neo rubber presently produced and be a lot less expensive, if not necessarily less dangerous?

BTW, my decision to try boosting NEO TG3 is gaining a bit more speed, cause as I mentioned somewhere I love my regular TG3 after boosting and I wouldn't mind it being a bit faster.Its reasonably tacky(not over tacky), which is good for the p-ball.Love the weight too. I just wonder if the Nittaku NEO H3 is faster than the DHS NEO TG3? Anyone??