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What blade has more Catapult effect ? |
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king_pong
Silver Member Joined: 06/29/2010 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 889 |
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The set-up I refer to is the one presently in my signature (old Donic Waldner wood w/ tuned Mark V both sides). Blocks are a little bit slower, but much more controlled. You can take shots at the table and still keep them on the table (not going long, like a faster set-up wood on spinnier shots). The only problem I've found with it is that it takes more energy to put energy into the ball (i.e. slow, or dead balls). It borrows speed just fine, it's just that makingnyour own takes a bit more effort (Which should just force you to learn how to play prudently, tactically & judiciously).
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Stiga Infinity VPS (Master): fh/bh - Nittaku Hammond CR max
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berndt_mann
Gold Member Joined: 02/02/2015 Location: Tucson, Arizona Status: Offline Points: 1719 |
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(king_pong) ...it's just that makingnyour own takes a bit more effort (Which should just force you to learn how to play prudently, tactically & judiciously).
Exactly, king_pong. If you are ever going to learn how to play prudently, tactically and judiciously, you've got to have a blade covered with a rubber that will require your effort more than the blade's or rubber's, and then you'll be forced to learn, in the words of the late Marty Reisman, how to let a point blossom. This point of view, however, is a minority point of view on every table tennis forum to which I have contributed save for one, the Yahoo hardbat forum. The alternative is to shoot first and ask questions later. Not althogether prudent IMHO (you may miss your chiquita, loop kill, or smash), sometimes tactical (hit the ball where your opponent isn't), and judicious I suppose when you have a chance to wallop the ball away after a point has barely begun, but for the past few decades it has seemed to work. Bummer. Edited by berndt_mann - 09/01/2017 at 2:44am |
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bmann1942
Setup: Mark Bellamy Master Craftsman blade, British Leyland hard rubber |
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