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schen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/12/2015 at 1:40pm
I boost directly to the sponge, never over glue.  I don't like the feeling, but some people do, so I figure it's optional.

I usually wait around 20-30 minutes after the first layer, 45-60 minutes after the second, hour and a half for the third, maybe 2-3 hours for the fourth, and overnight on the final layer.  I also noticed moving from NY to CA that the drying time in CA seems to take longer, maybe because of higher humidity because winter doesn't exist here Tongue

And no I don't wait for the rubber to uncurl, I glue it while domed for the juiciest effect!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qualizon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/12/2015 at 2:01pm
which glue do you use? I used to use wbg from dianchi, and it holds up curl rubber well on the blade.

but since i finished the whole bottle of wbg from dianchi, I've tried revolution 3 wbg and also tear mender.

Out of the three, revolution 3 is the weakest and almost useless on holding the curled rubber.

Glue strength:
dianchi wbg > tear mender >revolution 3 wbg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/12/2015 at 2:06pm
What's the difference between boosting over glue and boosting right into the sponge in terms of how it plays? The reason I ask is because in another thread someone said that chinese players like to put a glue layer between each boost, supposedly it helps the boost sink in slower to prevent problems.

Also, what's the best combination, 5 layers on 2.2 sponge, 6 layers on 2.15, or 7 layers on 2.1? Or does it not matter all that much.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Believer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/12/2015 at 7:59pm
I think that by putting a layer of glue between boost will slow down the attack of the boost to the sponge and rubber. It serves as a damper. This is why some Chinese rubber will come with a layer of glue so that you can apply the boost on top right away. But frankly, I prefer to boost directly on the sponge as well because I like that extra kick effects. It may shorten the rubber in the end though...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/12/2015 at 11:35pm
I prefer the dhs #15 glue - it has a strong bond without damaging the blade and comes off easily and most importantly it is THIN! Too thick of glue will jeopardize how thick you can safely boost the sponge before going over the legal limit!

Boosting over the glue gives a very soft feel for me to the point where i lose my touch and prolongs the drying time before you can stick it. I also notice a large drop in power/kick when boosting over glue, as well as a tendency for my racket covering to fail the thickness test because of the saturated glue layer.

The amount of layers i boost with corresponds to how far i can push the rubber before it becomes illegally thick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannyreventon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/13/2015 at 12:39am
Originally posted by schen schen wrote:

I prefer the dhs #15 glue - it has a strong bond without damaging the blade and comes off easily and most importantly it is THIN! Too thick of glue will jeopardize how thick you can safely boost the sponge before going over the legal limit!

Boosting over the glue gives a very soft feel for me to the point where i lose my touch and prolongs the drying time before you can stick it. I also notice a large drop in power/kick when boosting over glue, as well as a tendency for my racket covering to fail the thickness test because of the saturated glue layer.

The amount of layers i boost with corresponds to how far i can push the rubber before it becomes illegally thick.

Nice! We also use the same glue! :) Mine's in 98ml though. What's yours? :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannyreventon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/13/2015 at 12:45am
Also, related to the topic. I found out the the sponge of my hurricane 3 (not sure if it was neo/ or the regular one) rubbers has those ridges on the sponge. Does that mean my h3 is the regular version?
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schen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/13/2015 at 2:51am
I use the 500mL bottle but dilute it with about a tablespoon of water.

And the ridges are just a cosmetic inconsistency of the DHS sponges.  I read somewhere on taobao that the sponges with the ridges were cut from an older machine, but does not affect performance in any way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aroonkl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/13/2015 at 2:05pm
Originally posted by schen schen wrote:

I tune my H3 NEO with 5-7 layers (5 for 2.2, 6 for 2.15, 7 for 2.1) depending on the sponge thickness and push it to the maximum legal limit to get the most out of it.

When you tune that much, over 2-3 weeks time don't you feel the oil seep to surface of sheets. When I tune 3 coats and a month later 2-3 coats. After 2-3 weeks I feel the top sheet is little oily and lost some grips.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pnachtwey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/13/2015 at 3:31pm
I just speed glued my H3 Neo on my Samsonov Alpha.  I use the Dawei blue devil speed glue from colestt.com.   I applied 3 thick coats.  The first coat made the sponge contract so the rubber was curled.  The other two coats didn't do much.  I will see how it goes tonight.

I played with the speed glued H3 Neo tonight.  I wasn't impressed with the difference.

I don't think Dawei Speed Glue is as good as the tire repair glue.










Edited by pnachtwey - 01/13/2015 at 11:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JacekGM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/13/2015 at 7:44pm
Do not boost.
(1) Juic SBA (Fl, 85 g) with Bluefire JP3 (red max) on FH and 0.6 mm DR N Desperado on BH; (2) Yinhe T7 (Fl, 87 g) with Bluefire M3 (red 2.0) on FH and 0.6 mm 755 on BH.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2015 at 2:55am
Originally posted by aroonkl aroonkl wrote:


When you tune that much, over 2-3 weeks time don't you feel the oil seep to surface of sheets. When I tune 3 coats and a month later 2-3 coats. After 2-3 weeks I feel the top sheet is little oily and lost some grips.

I haven't felt this problem... But then again I retune around the 2 week mark anyway so maybe it's just a symptom of the rubber losing its boost?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pnachtwey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2015 at 3:09am
I don't understand this boosting craze.  Paraffin oil is very light and will evaporate quickly.  So will its effects.  Heavier oils will not evaporate but if they don't I can assure you that the oil will not compress and be as springy as the air in the air pockets of the sponge.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2015 at 2:12pm
What date is ADXB?

Also, can a layer really properly dry after just 30m?


Edited by Argothman - 01/14/2015 at 2:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2015 at 2:54pm
February 2014

And yes depending on the booster
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2015 at 3:16pm
FTL?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2015 at 6:50pm
FTL and Seamoon take a bit longer to dry because they are thick.  Thinner boosters like Dianchi and Kailin dry faster
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spinnyserve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2015 at 11:19pm
will these booster damage the wood on the blade?   And in your experience, boosted commercial h3 neo behaves better than unboosted provincial neo h3?

Edited by spinnyserve - 01/14/2015 at 11:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chop4ever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2015 at 1:57am
Originally posted by spinnyserve spinnyserve wrote:

will these booster damage the wood on the blade?   And in your experience, boosted commercial h3 neo behaves better than unboosted provincial neo h3?

I have my blade for almost 10 years using booster. All the print have gone out due to thousands times taking off and cleaning glue. However, there is no sign of any damage caused by oily booster on wood.
I can't compare boosted and unboosted Chinese hard rubbers together.
There is no real "pro", "prov" or "NT" H3 in the market.
Falco is not a booster
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2015 at 1:09pm
Hey Schen, after just 3 layers, the first being thin, my rubber is in a tube with about 2/3 inch overlap. Is this normal? Two more layers are going to dome it to hell and back... Heck, I can't even get it flat enough to put the fourth layer on.

Also, the booster dries pretty slowly, I left the first thin layer for 30m, the second I had to leave for ~4 hours, and the third I left overnight. Even then, there's still thin pools of booster in patches on the sponge. Is that at all normal? I'll have to leave the fourth and fifth layers for at least a day to dry properly.


Edited by Argothman - 01/15/2015 at 1:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qualizon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2015 at 1:26pm
for FTL, I'd recommend just do 3 layers, one layer per day. and glue the rubber on the fourth day.

FTL is thick and you want to re-apply when the previous layer is not dry yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2015 at 2:40pm
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

Hey Schen, after just 3 layers, the first being thin, my rubber is in a tube with about 2/3 inch overlap. Is this normal? Two more layers are going to dome it to hell and back... Heck, I can't even get it flat enough to put the fourth layer on.

Also, the booster dries pretty slowly, I left the first thin layer for 30m, the second I had to leave for ~4 hours, and the third I left overnight. Even then, there's still thin pools of booster in patches on the sponge. Is that at all normal? I'll have to leave the fourth and fifth layers for at least a day to dry properly.

They drying time varies depending on your area's climate.  FTL I guess is a little different in that the doming occurs some time after the booster has dried, and when it does dome it is significant.  leave the rubber until it is completely dry with 3 layers then try gluing it.

A little hack if you have an abundance of WBG is if you need to reduce the dome or shortcut the drying process, apply a few layers of WBG over the sponge (booster can still be slightly wet if you want) and remove it once the glue has dried, then your sponge should be dry and the dome will recess a little bit.  You can repeat this as many times as you need to control the amount of dome and to shorten drying time if you're really impatient, but the best is still to wait for the booster to dry completely.


Edited by schen - 01/15/2015 at 2:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spinnyserve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2015 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by spinnyserve spinnyserve wrote:

will these booster damage the wood on the blade?   And in your experience, boosted commercial h3 neo behaves better than unboosted provincial neo h3?

I have my blade for almost 10 years using booster. All the print have gone out due to thousands times taking off and cleaning glue. However, there is no sign of any damage caused by oily booster on wood.
I can't compare boosted and unboosted Chinese hard rubbers together.

Thanks Chop4ever!
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