Sealing Blade with Woodworking Varnish?
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Topic: Sealing Blade with Woodworking Varnish?
Posted By: Dominic123
Subject: Sealing Blade with Woodworking Varnish?
Date Posted: 05/27/2009 at 7:42pm
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Is it possible to use regular clear wood varnish to seal a blade ? thanks ------------- blade: Butterfly vsg 2000/ Butterfly Jonyer-h-an fh: Bryce / Sriver G2 FX bh: Sriver Fx / Sriver G2 FX |
Replies:
Posted By: tatapx
Date Posted: 05/27/2009 at 10:21pm
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not recommended. ------------- "Go to where the ball is going, not to where it is." |
Posted By: 729 FX
Date Posted: 05/27/2009 at 10:57pm
| Any reason why is it not recommended to use clear wood varnish to seal a blade? |
Posted By: tpgh2k
Date Posted: 05/27/2009 at 11:24pm
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doesn't varnish have a habit of making a rough surface once dried? if not then go for it. i don't see why not. test it on a crap blade and see if u like it. ------------- www.youtube.com/gsutabletennis Timo Boll Spirit FL H3 Blue Sponge Black FH Tenergy 64 Red BH |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 1:55am
Varnish is a general term that covers most clear finishes including poly, shellack, etc. Poly-U is the accepted toughest finish. Most varnishes will work, some better than others. If it is made for wood, it will work. Hair spray will not seal the wood from water based glues. With a Poly-U finish, you can wash the blade with a wet rag.
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Posted By: tatapx
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 2:39am
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We seal the blade to bind the wood grain and lightly sanding with fine sandpaper to smoothen the surface, #240 sandpaper is fine enough but I prefer #1000. There are many types of varnish as mentioned by Hookshot earlier and Polyurethane is at hard category that dries like a film. Problem with hard varnish is lesser penetration into the wood and overtime the varnish cracks. Varnish that easily penetrates the wood will not likely bind the wood grain, this is not good if you have open wood grain type of blade. That is why I recommend the wood sealer, you have a choice from table tennis manufacturer or from DIY stores. If you know the basics of wood priming techniques, then go with varnish. PS. Applying too much sealer may alter the blades performance. ------------- "Go to where the ball is going, not to where it is." |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 4:12am
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Shellack may crack but Poly will not. It is The reccommended finish for high end furnature, table tops, bars and high wear surfaces. it is the most scratch resistant finish of all varnishes. It is used on high end furnature because of it's long life. What are the sealers made out of from the table tennis manufacturers? They do not tell you. They usually cost 4 times as much as a good brand of Poly. Since Poly is the best finish, why do they cost more? I can tell you. Because it says made for table tennis on the can. I would not be surprized if it is repackaged Poly. Read what the testers at Wood Workers Magazine have to say about finishes and you will not be so quick to push a can of something that does not even tell you what it is. After sealing over 75 blades, most in pairs so I can compare sealed to unsealed, i can tell you it takes more than one coat to be able to feel any difference. It will show up on slower blades first. A fast bat will take more with out noticable change. The only problem I ran into with poly, I sealed a blade with 5 coats for a "table top" finish. Rubber cement and Tear Mender would not hold. I had to sand with #400 paper and then the glue would stick. Even the "water based Poly-U" is water proof when dry. Just like water based latex house paints are water proof when dry. You can wash your blade with a wet rag if sealed with poly. You reccommended "THE wood sealer". What wood sealer? Minwax makes a nice wood sealer that is poly based. Just a little easier to sand and a little thicker. Some sealers should be called fillers as they are not waterproof. They require a topcoat of poly. |
Posted By: Dominic123
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 7:09pm
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Thanks for the replies I guess i"ll go to the hardware store and look for a poly based varnish? Oh btw the blade is: butterfly vsg-2000 I have serious trouble while removing water based glue the glue is some Aqua water based thing ------------- blade: Butterfly vsg 2000/ Butterfly Jonyer-h-an fh: Bryce / Sriver G2 FX bh: Sriver Fx / Sriver G2 FX |
Posted By: zwu168
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 7:32pm
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Don't seal it unless its necessary. If you be careful everytime you reglue, it wont splinter at all. Seal just ruins the feel.
------------- OC WRB FH: Hurricane 2 BH: CJ8000 |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 7:44pm
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ZWU, How many blades have you sealed yourself? Which ones? What did you seal with? How many coats? How did you apply the finish? Did you do two of them so you could compare? |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 7:47pm
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Dominic123, Clean the blade as good as you can before you seal it. Make sure it is dry after cleaning. Use the instructions on the Poly can. If there is a choice, get the "Fast Dry". Have fun. |
Posted By: tatapx
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 9:44pm
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not minwax. If you compare the volume, I agree that the one from TT manufacturer are very expensive. If you only have to seal a few blades, I don't think you need a quart or a liter of it. ------------- "Go to where the ball is going, not to where it is." |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 10:10pm
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Thats true but for the price of their little can you can get a 6 or 8 ounce can of Poly and then you know what it is also. A 6 or 8 ounce can of poly would do one coat on more than 50 blades. |
Posted By: zwu168
Date Posted: 05/28/2009 at 11:40pm
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Hookshot Actually...I have 2 OC's, i put 1 coat on my shakehand one didnt feel too good. now i am forced to play shakehand with my penhold OC -.- The feel of OC is not as "vibrant" ------------- OC WRB FH: Hurricane 2 BH: CJ8000 |
Posted By: doraemon
Date Posted: 05/29/2009 at 12:00am
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I agree very much with Hookshot. However, for convenience, I have Donic Sealer which cost a fortune compared to my old trusty Minwax Polyurethane spray (by volume comparison). It seems that Donic Sealer is more convenient if you are asked by friends to seal their blades in between TT games (I can put it in my small TT bag and don't require a rag to wipe it off, just roll it on). But since most of you will seal blades at your own house, get Minwax. |
Posted By: rokphish
Date Posted: 05/29/2009 at 1:04am
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i use empty i-sure bottle and also empty donic combi cleaner bottle and refill them with sealer liquid...
------------- instagram: rokphishtt Member of EJ Anonymous Hurricane Lover |
Posted By: doraemon
Date Posted: 05/29/2009 at 3:08am
Clever !!! However my Donic sealer is still half full and I don't know how to transfer spray-on sealer to the empty bottle later on. I might have to get the liquid type. |
rokphish wrote:Posted By: rokphish
Date Posted: 05/29/2009 at 3:23am
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i asked hookshot before... he said something about the liquid might get dried up due to the hole on the bottle and also might hardened the sponge...
but i use water-based sealer and so far no problemo... i don't know what will happen if non water-based liquid is put in the bottle... just a thought... ------------- instagram: rokphishtt Member of EJ Anonymous Hurricane Lover |
Posted By: saif
Date Posted: 05/29/2009 at 5:15am
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I sealed my Stag all round bat with clear wood varnish. I'll play today so that I can feel the difference
------------- TBS FH & BH: T05fx Tibhar Samsonov Alpha FH: Grip-S Europe BH: Rakza7 soft Victas Koji Matsushita FH: Tenergy 80 BH: Feint long III https://www.facebook.com/groups/5439549367/ |
Posted By: constanta
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 2:20pm
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Please help.
Is there a way to remove water-based varnish without sanding it? I put 3 layers of andro seal on my Acoustic, and I now think that it ruined the feel a little, would like to get rid of the varnish now, but not sure of what would be the safests way. ------------- Nittaku Acoustic ST Joola Mambo H 2.0 fh Tenergy64 1.9 bh |
Posted By: figgie
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 2:42pm
No
Water pased varnish still is poly, acrylic etc after the water evaporates. Nothing will take that off except for sand paper and elbow grease.
<-- Poly-U rub. Works well and it is thin enough :)
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Posted By: constanta
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 2:45pm
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Thank you!
What kind of sand paper should I use, so I won't damage the wood? ------------- Nittaku Acoustic ST Joola Mambo H 2.0 fh Tenergy64 1.9 bh |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 3:10pm
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Use #320 wet/dry. Use a HARD sanding block to keep it flat. A soft sanding block will remove softer areas faster than hard. Depending on how much finish you have to remove, you could start with #220 and finish with #320. Just go slow and have a good light to work with. Sand a little, wipe it off with a dry rag, check. Holding it at an angle to the light will show where you are. It would be nice to know what Andro Seal is made from. None of the ones I have seen tell you. To really know if you changed the feel, you should do one bat to compare with one that is not sealed. |
Posted By: constanta
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 3:33pm
Yes, unfortunately they don't list the components on the container. It appears white at first and becomes clear as it dries up, I don't know if it tells you anything except for it being water-based. Thank you for your advice! ------------- Nittaku Acoustic ST Joola Mambo H 2.0 fh Tenergy64 1.9 bh |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 3:39pm
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Blade Sealing by Tommy Zai *Prepare blade first. If you have to lightly sand, do it carefully with a fine gauge sponge sanding block-DRY. If you wet-sand a bare wood blade it might soften the wood and could deform it. Do not round off blade edges. Use rubbing alcohol to clean. Let dry (a few minutes). Now you're ready . . . VARATHANE DIAMOND INTERIOR WOOD FINISH-SATIN (not gloss)-#2002-61. 1. Stir can well without shaking (causes air bubbles). 2. Dip the corner (twisted or folded up a little to provide a nice little flat area) of clean, dry cotton cloth* and quickly rub the sealer into the blade and with a technique that covers evenly. I go in circles starting at the center of the face of the blade and work my way to the outer edges, then wipe along the side edge (perimeter) of the blade where the edge tape will go, then quickly return to the face of the blade to wipe off any spill over from the edge sealing with some light vertical strokes from handle out over top of blade. You might want to stroke a nice even level line across the top of the handle where the bottom edge of the rubber will go; however, I think it looks better and strengthens the blade to seal the wings/shoulder. Some prefer to use a sponge or china bristle brush when applying, but that leaves a heavy coat and/or streaks of sealant. THAT IS NO GOOD IMO. The trick is to rub the sealant INTO the blade, then gently wipe off the excess with the cloth. 3. Wait one hour, then polish with a clean dry cloth. 4. Repeat. 5. Repeat a third time ONLY if the blade is like bare porous wood or if you want a stiffer lacquered effect (I have over sealed and made a mess. My blade looked like an over protected night table . . . hard as a rock and too thick). Luckily, I managed to fix this by sanding with a fine gauge wet sanding sponge and it took hours to repair my disaster. But only do this if you mess up, which you shouldn't. However, I should mention many of the Chinese players are over-sealing to stiffen the blade. Some call over-sealing "lacquering." There are also other product and techniques specifically designed for lacquering, but I recommend using Varathane and adjusting the number of layers. 6. Let harden overnight. 7. Affix your rubbers! I use glue sheets and NEVER get splinters when removing!!!!!! *Use a cotton cloth or an expensive paper towel like Bounty that will not leave lint of fall apart and get stuck to your wet sealer. I use an old pair of 100% cotton boxer shorts. :-). I learned the technique in China. I don't remember who turned me on to this Varathane, but it was on MYTT. My hats off to him/her. I added the boxer shorts. ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 4:10pm
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Thanks Tommy, Your system works just as well with Poly-U. I prefer the spray but both work. When people say it ruins a blade, it is not true. "Heavy" sealing will make a change. This change might be to the good. It "might" make a blade a little faster. It "might" reduce the vibrations a little. I don't like vibration in a blade. It "might" make the sweet spot bigger. It "might" make a blade a little stiffer. What it "will do" is make the blade immune to water based glues and non-water based glues. It will make the edges tougher and less prone to chipping. It will prevent splinters from coming off when changing rubbers. It will allow you to rub old glue off. Water based glue can be wiped off with a wet rag with NO damage to the blade. |
Posted By: figgie
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 6:08pm
Water based and white. Ploycrylic by minwax is exactly as you described. I use Wipe-on poly. |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 6:31pm
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I have used the Wipe On Poly also and find it a very tough finish. I have used it on rifle stocks that have been taken out in the rain for days and it protected them perfectly. The water based Verithane that Tommy uses also is white looking but dries clear. |
Posted By: figgie
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 6:38pm
Well the reason I like it is because it goes on thin. :) That and no brush streaks too (cotton lint free rags). If i require another coat, I know it is not going to be too thick and hence not affect play to much. I just finished sealing a blade with it yesterday. Used some Bty Free chack (the white mini bottle). So we will see what happens in 3 months time when rubber replacement comes to be... :)
Yeah I am not an EJ!! lol.
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Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/11/2009 at 7:39pm
"THREE MONTHS?" Whats the matter with you? The manufacturers won't make much from you. LOL 
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Posted By: figgie
Date Posted: 06/12/2009 at 3:52pm
<--- mental note. Drink and swallow coke before reading hookshot's post. You bum!! You made me spray the coke all over my keyboard with that post!!!! LOL If it is any consolation, I did buy 6 sheets at one time :) |
Posted By: vader555
Date Posted: 06/13/2009 at 7:43am
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there is a blade sealing video in about.com http://tabletennis.about.com/od/blades/a/sealing_blade.htm < id="gwProxy" ="">< ="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" =""> |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/13/2009 at 9:18am
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He is a better table tennis player than he is a woodworker. His method will leave streaks. If I was not leaving for China soon, I would do one for him. There are a few problems with his method. He is putting it on thick which I consider OK, BUT, standing it up to dry will let it run down and can make an uneven coat top to bottom. If you want a nice even thick coat, you want the blade FLAT while it dries so the finish will even itself out. I do this by sticking the handle in the side of a stack of magazines. Using a piece of paper to spread the finish does not give a smooth finish. A much nicer finish will be obtained by using 2 or 3 thin coats. A thin coat with Quick Dry Poly or Verithane will be dry in a couple hours. A rubbed on THIN coat will dry in one hour.
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Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 06/13/2009 at 1:52pm
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My current sealing rating points are 12874.51.
------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/13/2009 at 3:09pm
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Tommy, I challenge you to a "Seal Off" in China!
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Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 06/13/2009 at 3:19pm
Would you mind if a couple hundred of my female students were involved? ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/13/2009 at 3:30pm
| Twist my arm! LOL |
Posted By: player87
Date Posted: 06/11/2011 at 6:25am
| I want to seal my Acoustic with Andro free seal (2 layers). Is that ok? |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 06/11/2011 at 1:09pm
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I found that many of the professional sealants need extra amount or coats to cover because they tend to b light. You want even coverage no matter what. All the best!! ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: player87
Date Posted: 06/11/2011 at 1:31pm
| Didn't get what you said. |
Posted By: ZingyDNA
Date Posted: 06/11/2011 at 1:59pm
He meant sealers from professional TT manufacturers, like yours, are thinner than other wood sealers, so you need to apply multiple coats. |
Posted By: assiduous
Date Posted: 06/11/2011 at 2:38pm
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I use fast dry minwax that I had left from when i did my garage. I apply only 1 layer and apply it with 8-fold VIVA paper towel. Next day I sand with whatever automotive sandpaper I find in my garage, usually 1000 or higher. I sand very little, just to take the tiny microscopic grains out. The blades become BEAUTIFUL after the sealing. The wood gets that tan color and it looks so perfectly smooth and homogeneous. It looks like a very expensive blade. I love the finish of a blade after sealing. Even after a single layer, that has been sanded down some too, I have never experienced any splintering of any form afterwards. ------------- puppy412 : Sorry man, I don't mean to sound disrespectful, but I know that more training will make me better, I don't need to come here to figure that out |
Posted By: Tinykin_2
Date Posted: 06/11/2011 at 7:50pm
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In the old days, very few players bothered with varnish as the VOC glue also sealed the blade. ------------- Member of Single Ply Club. Shakehand, Kauri wood by American Hinoki, 1-ply 7mm. FH> Gambler Reflectoid. BH> Yasaka Mark V |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 06/11/2011 at 9:53pm
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I know a guy who rubs the blade with the grease off his forehead. The problem is the rubber usually flies off in matches and knocks the opponent unconscious. ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: player87
Date Posted: 06/12/2011 at 5:00am
Thanks. The main issue for me is not to loose unique characteristics of the blade. That's why I am asking about it.
|
Posted By: Imago
Date Posted: 06/12/2011 at 5:18am
| W/b floor varnish is OK with me. I buy a bucket, varnish the floor twice and always keep 2-3 bottles of 100 ml for the blades. A gallon is about $40 around here. |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 06/12/2011 at 2:51pm
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That's right!! Just be sure not to walk on the blade for 24-hours. LOL ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:02pm
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Imago,
Read the can please and see what it is made from. Poly-U maybe?
 |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:04pm
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Listen to Hookshot. He knows. After all, he varnishes his wooden leg semi-annually. :-). ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Imago
Date Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:38pm
Self-webbing (?) acrylate emulsions, polyurethane emulsions, teflon. Water based.
http://www.megachim.com/?m=32&id=5&id2=4 - http://www.megachim.com/?m=32&id=5&id2=4
|
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:51pm
If I don't varnish with Poly-U, my leg warps when in S. China. 
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Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 12/14/2011 at 1:53pm
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use a sealer like any of the brands- Joola do a great light one. why use normal thick heavy wood varnish designed to protect against rain and weather or at the very least to protect wooden floors-DONT CHEAP OUT ON A SEALER AFTER SPENDING THE MONEY ON A BLADE ITS A FALSE ECONOMY AND VERY FOOLISH I wouldnt dream of destroying a new blade with thick varnish plus it would weigh ALOT more. ------------- David |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 12/14/2011 at 3:06pm
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Obviously you are not a woodworker. There are many methods to use any varnish besides a brush or paint roller. A little use of the serch function will bring up some of these methods. Also, just read page one of this thread. I have put one here, used by TommyZia and I. He and I have done hundreds of blades.
Seal ALL blades. One coat of Poly-U will not change a blade. My fav is Minwax Poly Quick Dry, Satin. Dip the corner of a lint free rag in it, rub it into the wood. Then wipe it off, let dry. If it is very open grain wood, use two or three coats. Apply about 10 minutes apart, then dry for one hour. Done. You "might" be able to feel a little difference on an ALL- or DEF blade. I can't tell you. I do not use slow blades. OFF- to OFF+, you can not feel the difference with one or two coats. I have done tests by comparing an unsealed blade to a sealed blade many times. Bouncing a ball on the bare blades, (OFF- or faster) two coats gave a "slightly higher" sound on "some" of the blades. With rubbers on the blade, (blind test) NO ONE could pick the sealed blade. I have done tests with up to 10 coats of Poly-U. Varathane works the same. Both brands make water or mineral based finish. When dry, both are water proof. Water based gives a crystal clear finish while mineral based adds a slight golden glo to the wood. If you use many coats for a "table top" finish, you must "lightly" sand with #320 to break the shine so the glue will stick better. With one or two coats, the glue holds fine and will stay on the sponge 95% of the time when the rubber is removed. I would not use "Made for Table Tennis" sealers as they do not even tell you what they are made of and they cost too much. Tests by Woodworkers Magazine have shown Poly-U to be the strongest, most scratch resistant, waterproof finish commonally available. A small can will do dozens of blades. If you use water based glue, remember to seal the edges of the blade. |
Posted By: bbkon
Date Posted: 12/15/2011 at 12:02pm
but that would render the blade ilegal since the outer ply must look and feel like wood
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Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 12/15/2011 at 3:49pm
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This is my fav but I use other Minwax products also.The rub on Poly works well also.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane - http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane
I think this is the one Tommy uses. It is water based. Can be had in clear or satin. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70 - http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70 |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 12/15/2011 at 4:04pm
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I like the gloss. Some think the semi or satin gives better adhesion but I have not found that. If you use enough coats to make a smooth finish with any of them, it will need to be lightly broken with #400 or #600 sand paper for the glue to grip. I think the satin or semi look is "IN" the finish, not on the surface.
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Posted By: Cho!
Date Posted: 12/17/2011 at 5:03pm
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How does Spar Urethane compare to Poly U? I Just got my new blade in the mail 30 minutes ago and found a can of both Spar and Poly in my basement. Which would work better for singly ply hinoki? ------------- Jpen: Senkoh-1 w. Xiom Vega Pro SH: Expert All+ w. TG3 Neo & Illumina |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 12/17/2011 at 5:25pm
|
I use: http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/60-352-clear-finish-polyurethane/varathane-polyurethane-diamond-semi-gloss-620633.aspx But in Satin finish. Blade Sealing by Tommy Zai *Prepare blade first. If you have to lightly sand, do it
carefully with a fine gauge sponge sanding block-DRY. If you wet-sand a bare
wood blade it might soften the wood and could deform it. Do not round off blade
edges. Use rubbing alcohol to clean. Let dry (a few minutes). Now you're ready
. . . VARATHANE DIAMOND INTERIOR WOOD FINISH-SATIN (not
gloss)-#2002-61. 1. Stir can well without shaking (causes air bubbles). 2. Dip the corner (twisted or folded up a little to provide
a nice little flat area) of clean, dry cotton cloth* and quickly rub the sealer
into the blade and with a technique that covers evenly. I go in circles
starting at the center of the face of the blade and work my way to the outer
edges, then wipe along the side edge (perimeter) of the blade where the edge
tape will go, then quickly return to the face of the blade to wipe off any
spill over from the edge sealing with some light vertical strokes from handle
out over top of blade. You might want to stroke a nice even level line across
the top of the handle where the bottom edge of the rubber will go; however, I
think it looks better and strengthens the blade to seal the wings/shoulder.
Some prefer to use a sponge or china bristle brush when applying, but that leaves
a heavy coat and/or streaks of sealant. THAT IS NO GOOD IMO. The trick is to
rub the sealant INTO the blade, then gently wipe off the excess with the cloth.
3. Wait one hour, then polish with a clean dry cloth. 4. Repeat. 5. Repeat a third time ONLY if the blade is like bare porous
wood or if you want a stiffer lacquered effect (I have over sealed and made a
mess. My blade looked like an over protected night table . . . hard as a rock
and too thick). Luckily, I managed to fix this by sanding with a fine gauge wet
sanding sponge and it took hours to repair my disaster. But only do this if you
mess up, which you shouldn't. However, I should mention many of the Chinese
players are over-sealing to stiffen the blade. Some call over-sealing
"lacquering." There are also other product and techniques
specifically designed for lacquering, but I recommend using Varathane and
adjusting the number of layers. 6. Let harden overnight. 7. Affix your rubbers! I use glue sheets and NEVER get
splinters when removing!!!!!! *Use a cotton cloth or an expensive paper towel like Bounty
that will not leave lint of fall apart and get stuck to your wet sealer. I use
an old pair of 100% cotton boxer shorts. :-). I don't remember who turned me on to this Varathane, but it was on MYTT. ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: pokerpete
Date Posted: 02/08/2012 at 10:11pm
|
i want to try sealing a spare blade..... what do you guys recommend as far as water based or oil based? i have access to full line of min-wax products at home depot im thinking water based, satin, fast dry, wipe on, by minwax........ but wondering if the oil base one will hold up better in the long run? ------------- Blade:Stiga Sense 7.6/ Timo ZLC FH: Tenergy 05FX BH: Tibhar Q5 Sound |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 02/08/2012 at 10:16pm
|
Water based and mineral based are both very tough. You will not be able to tell the difference when done.
The mineral based gives a "small" golden hue compared to the crystal clear finish of the water based. This shows most when you have very pretty wood.
Read the methods in this thread and use the "TEE shirt" method. |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 02/09/2012 at 1:43am
|
Water! I like Varathane in a jar, not spray. ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 02/09/2012 at 2:25am
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I agree, I have used both and am using the can after the spray ran out. No more clogged nozzels. A small can can do dozens of blades.
|
Posted By: Ranger-man
Date Posted: 02/09/2012 at 7:46am
|
Hey Tommy, I bought a Violin from you, about a year and a half ago. It is sealed and is shiny. I had to wait extra long to let the rubber set on it because of that. But it is a beautiful seal, what is that? ------------- Darker Speed 90 10mm: Dawei IQUL Ahinoki Lutz Spruce Jpen: 729 SuperFX Member: 1-ply Hinoki Club Violin/Acoustic Clan The speed of a Rhino and the power of a Gazelle! |
Posted By: BarryB
Date Posted: 04/04/2014 at 5:34am
|
Been a while since the last post. I've a question about blade sealing.
In the previous posts especially Hookshot and Tommyzai explained how they use Poly-U products to varnish blades. It was stated that the playing characteristics only change when you apply too many layers.
I was wondering what to do if you only want to seal one side of the blade?
E.g. I play modern defensive with a Donic Deplay Senso blade (Gabon en Anegre dampening outer plies) with TSP curl P4 0.5 mm on BH and Xiom Vega Japan 2.0mm on FH.
Besides the slower woods, the blade is also quit flexible. For the BH it's quit okay the way it is, I don't think I want to change it. But the FH feels a bit mushy at times and I think I would like it a tiny bit harder. I also expect to change my FH a lot more often than the BH rubber.
Would varnishing my FH side with 2 layers of a Poly-U wood varnish (so not varnishing the BH) also effect my BH side? Or not.
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Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 04/04/2014 at 12:36pm
I play a combination game. I lightly seal the FH side with one coat of satin Miniwax (rubbed in, not thickly coated). I put two coats of sealant on the BH side as I use glue sheets that would destroy un-sealed wood when removed. ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: GMan4911
Date Posted: 04/04/2014 at 1:13pm
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I've been using Deft Sanding Sealer to seal my blades. Very easy to apply and dries very fast, less than 1/2 hour. About 2 quick sprays per side is all you need. No need to sand unless you spray too much.
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Posted By: in2spin
Date Posted: 04/04/2014 at 1:26pm
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-12-oz-Aerosol-Clear-Shellac-408/100176744
i usually spray around the edge heavily at first, then on both faces, then take a disposable t-shirt or sock (lintless) and rub off the excess do not have a long elapsed time (usually about 20-30 seconds) adds a very very miniscule amount of weight, doesn't really affect the speed, but it does prevent splintering :)
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Posted By: puppy412
Date Posted: 04/04/2014 at 1:32pm
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let me give ->YOU<- a personal advice. don't use varnish! use lacquer.  |
Posted By: estregan
Date Posted: 10/21/2015 at 4:16am
| Will polyurethane smudge the blade printing? I tried to use lacquer sanding sealer and it smudged the blade printing. |
Posted By: zeropong
Date Posted: 10/21/2015 at 7:49am
Have used this on over 1000 blades over the years, none of the KTL or 729 blades come with lacquer, and many players want them sealed prior to glue. Not saying it's the best, but it works fast and does not fill the wood grain as it has pretty good penetration. (edit to address smudging) I have never found this product to smudge printing on a blade, it is a spray so as long as you do not aggressively wipe it around you will not have this problem. |
Posted By: Aman1234
Date Posted: 10/21/2015 at 9:42am
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If the blade was originally finished with Varnish, I would not recommend that lacquer be used over it. Problem is we do not know what if anything was used at the factory. If you must, you need to lightly sand and apply very light coats. I believe varnish over lacquer is safer than lacquer over varnish. ------------- BTY TBS FH Tibhar Evolution FX-P BH Donic Bluefire M3 |