Nonetheless, I've had issues with both--blade splintering, difficulty with positioning, and much more difficult removal of glue pack (especially from the sponge). Using rubber cement, I've had none of those issues, nor any of the supposed issues with the VOC content negatively affecting the sponge. No doming, no drop off in performance, nothing.

 

So, for me:

 

Water-based = hassle.

Rubber cement = no problems.

 

Asking for proof about the possible damage to wood caused by the water in water-based glue is understandable and commendable. However, proof in this case may be difficult to come by even if it is a perfectly valid claim. Yes, the stronger bond is what likely causes splintering of the wood. But what of those who've experienced splintering even after "sealing" their blade? Could it be that multiple gluing (i.e. multiple saturation) of the very thin plies on their blade could be slowly causing tiny deformations which facilitate the pulling away of the wood grain?

 

I know what water does to wood. I was a carpenter for 5 years. So my reasoning isn't wild speculation, I don't think. Plus, I love my current set up, so as long as I know rubber cement doesn't harm my rubber, and I know water-based glue does increase risk of splintering, then I'm going to minimize my risk as much as possible.

 

As I said, definitive proof may be difficult to come by in this specific situation, unless we have any chemists out there who are interested in taking up the challenge. Perhaps we can contact the authors of these papers:

 

http://www.cababstractsplus.org/abstracts/Abstract.aspx?AcNo=19960609880 - http://www.cababstractsplus.org/abstracts/Abstract.aspx?AcNo=19960609880

 

http://www.springerlink.com/content/3k7152645p386312/ - http://www.springerlink.com/content/3k7152645p386312/  

 

 

Anyway, I will admit it's not an issue that yields a definitive answer (in either direction) but rather, it's an issue of probability (chance). I'm taking my chances with rubber cement. If others choose not to, then that is obviously totally up to them. 

 

Did you not try the Haifu water solubility bond? It works like a charm.

Easy to spread as it is very very thin. Apply 3-4 layers on the rubber and one layer on the blade.

If you want to remove the rubber just peel it off the blade. It comes off within seconds without much effort and the best part is, the glue layer of the blade also comes on the rubber's sponge.

It does not splinter my blades atleast. None of my blades have any major splintering issues due to glues. I have a K-5, a stiga premade's ply, a LKT 9010, a BTY Firehand, a stiga offensive classic, a stiga ar classic and yeah the new Nexy Color.

All of them are doing just fine with this Haifu glue. It comes off from the rubber with much ease. It comes off in just one go or max 2. Comes off as a single layer. But you need to make sure that you apply atleast 2-3 layers of this glue on the sponge otherwise it becomes a bit tough to peel it off.

Get it from the MYTT store and give it a try in case you have not already done so! Cheers!

How is everyone feeling about water-based glues now? Are the new formulations easier to use than the first generation glues?

I'm still annoyed by water-based glue. If you use a little too much, it forms puddles. If you use too little, it starts to dry even as you apply and might start rolling up little bits.

What are your thoughts?

Once I found Tear Mender, I stopped trying other water based glues. So I can't really comment on the breadth of available glues other than to say I won't spend a lot of money on glue unless I have no choice.

If I were playing with sponge backing, I'd probably just use rubber cement so long as rubber cement didn't negatively affect the sponge. I'd just use it many days before any sanctioned tournament that I'd have to play in. My understanding is that some boosted rubbers can be harmed by a VOC glue.

I find the ITTF's approach to to VOC control to be borderline insane, even if I agree that getting rid of speed gluing is/was a good thing to do. Their insanity was dropping the VOC limit levels down to the point where a fresh, unglued rubber out of a package would set off their detector. The sane approach would be to take away the advantage of gluing right before a match and therefore the advantage of gluing frequently. If some player wants to use rubber cement a half dozen times a year, that shouldn't be a concern. A little exposure to VOCs is not big concern. Routine exposure is.

On topic: I still prefer the old way of glueing, but I don't mind using WBG. (Using Rev 3 or DHS Aquatic glue.)

Yes, Stiga attach. It should be the same as Nittaku Finezip.

I have no issues with WBG. I like DHS no 15 the best and Revolution as runner up. With DHS you need to hurry up tho, it's really thick and starts to dry quickly.

I tend to follow what the Japanese players are doing, only one generous layer to the sponge and blade, DHS no 15 is thick enough to be used like that. BTY free chack pro is good for this method too, but if you shuffle your rubbers around removing the glue from the sponge is annoying compared the DHS.

If someone only glues once and removes their rubber when it's worn the free chack pro is pretty good too.

Can you explain more on the method using Tear Mender?

Then I use Finezip, pretty good glue but still difficult to remove. 

My method currently:

2 layers of Tear Mender, then 1 layer of Finezip (still think Finezip is the best for its elasticity), then one more layer of Tear Mender on rubber. Pretty much using Tear Mender to warp Finezip inside. After that, one layer of Tear Mender on blade. 

Works beautifully and super easy to remove from sponge.

I mostly glue OX rubber (hardbat). I use a sponge (cut up pieces of those big tile/grout sponges you can get from Home Depot) to spread an even layer of Tear Mender on both the blade and the rubber. I wet the sponge and squeeze out the excess water. I start with a pool of glue about the size of a quarter or maybe a bit larger and spread quickly before the glue starts to congeal. Do one surface at a time. I rinse the sponge immediately so I can reuse it. If the sponge starts sticking to itself from glue not rinsed, I either cut off the portion with glue or toss it and use a fresh sponge for the next step.

I let both surfaces dry until clear. I then put a puddle of glue a bit smaller than a quarter on the blade and spread it around evenly and quickly. Using the "taco" method where I hold the sides of the rubber up and drop the drooping middle of the rubber onto the center of the blade, I quickly place the rubber onto the wet glue on the blade. The "taco" method allows you to line up the bottom edge and make sure the rubber is close to being centered. It tends to reduce the chance of trapped bubbles since the rubber gets laid down from the inside out.

I then roller out the rubber from the center outward to remove any bubbles. Depending on how well you've dialed in the amount of wet glue to use, some glue may ooze out the edges.  I just wit that off with a damp paper towel. If any gets on the other side of the blade, I just let it dry and rub it off.

The third wet layer helps give OX rubbers a smooth attachment. I don't know if I'd bother with a wet layer with sponge rubber. I'd probably just adhere the sheet once both rubbers have dried clear.

For most sponge rubbers Wanda and I just use Bestine rubber cement - thinned a bit.

+100 for RC

True. Right now it's hard to find the quarts though

For the rubber, I use WBG as a kind of base layer. For hard chinese rubbers 5-6 layers, as I rarely boost. For soft sponge rubbers, whether it's chinese or eurojap, usually 2-3 moderate layers, then that's when voc-based glue comes into play; to flatten the rubber before attached to the blade (if the reverse dome is prominent, I'll use speed glue. If not, I'll use the RC-SG mix for milder effect, just to get it flat). The advantage gained is, well, most of us should've known it; it's very easy to peel off glue layers from the sponge;the thicker latex glue layer is the more easier. If you feel it's too atttached to the sponge, a layer of speed glue to soften the glue layer, and you're good to go. And peeling off elastic glue layer sometimes satisfying, as long as you don't pull a chunk of your rubber's sponge if not being careful 

For the blade, if it comes factory-sealed, I'll just use WBG to it to ensure good adhesion (for stiga blades with those fancy CR/NCT coating, lightly sand with 1000 grit sandpaper or higher, just to slightly roughen the surface) 

If it's not sealed, I'll use RC-SG mix. It spreads evenly, strong enough adhesion with minimal risk of damaging the top ply