Restoring your topsheet with oil (video)
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Topic: Restoring your topsheet with oil (video)
Posted By: Thaidog
Subject: Restoring your topsheet with oil (video)
Date Posted: 07/29/2010 at 11:08pm
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Has anybody tried this? If so how did it go? ------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Replies:
Posted By: peter79
Date Posted: 07/29/2010 at 11:27pm
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Hmmm, never tried sunflower oil. But I've tried using parafin oil with liquid soap. Not more than 5 minutes time, become grippy again.
------------- Andro Wanokiwami AO Offensive 83 gr H3 National Orange 40 deg 2.2 Baracuda Max 182 Gr |
Posted By: Heimdallalso
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 12:01am
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http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30439&KW=tensor&title=olive-oil-dressing-for-an-older-generation-tensor - I've had some good results w/ olive oil. I would say, try in the last month, or so, of your rubbers life. Let us know if you get a good result.  ------------- NEXY Lissom st 85g fh/ Andro Impuls Speed max bh/ Palio Flying Dragon 1.8 |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 12:04am
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Cool! I look forward to trying all types!
------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: Heimdallalso
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 12:35am
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I should add; I simply used a clean finger to apply spreading the excess
evenly. I ~do~ like his brush application but would think two, maybe three coats max should do it... maybe just two good coats. I think the results are going to vary a good deal depending on the rubbers being treated. again Good Luck & Good Hitting! I'd love to know The Architect's findings!  ------------- NEXY Lissom st 85g fh/ Andro Impuls Speed max bh/ Palio Flying Dragon 1.8 |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 1:03am
In concordance ------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Heimdallalso wrote:Posted By: Speedplay
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 4:54pm
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I've done it a couple of times to force out the last life of the rubber =)
Works pretty good, but I've only applied one layer, applied it with a cloth and left it to soak for ~30 minutes. Removed the excess oil and the bat was ready to play. Gives more grip to grippy rubbers and restores the tackiness to tacky rubbers. Makes it able to squeeze out an extra month of usage for the rubber. ------------- The holy grail |
Posted By: Heimdallalso
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 8:51pm
Such an application will subsequently only garner a systemic performance enhancement for a set period of time... ergo, the suggestion to "squeeze out an extra month of usage for the rubber" is concrdantly a "correct" one. In this time line & any time line! ------------- NEXY Lissom st 85g fh/ Andro Impuls Speed max bh/ Palio Flying Dragon 1.8 |
Posted By: smackman
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 9:49pm
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Would adding 5 coats of oil, change the weight up?. Has anyone weighed thier bats before and after? ------------- Ulmo Duality,Donic BlueGrip C2 red max ,Yinhe Super Kim Ox Black NZ table tennis selector, third in the World (plate Doubles)I'm Listed on the ITTF website |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 9:55pm
| I can tell you it will make the bat heavier over time. My dad used to wipe his with corn oil all the time. When he died I got his bat. It weighed a ton! The sponge was soaked with oil. It does not evaporate like water does. It builds up.When I took the rubbers off, the wood even had oil soaked into it. |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 10:29pm
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Only water should be used on newer sheets and lamp oil should be used lightly when the sheet is getting older...and more and more lamp oil. it will really take dust off and give a lot of spin for a couple hours or so. The advantage of lamp oil is that it evaporate really quickly and does not get detected by enez. For the lovers of broken in Chinese tacky rubbers this is the way to go. It's funny I won't do that with Tenergy rubbers....It seems like the lamp oil helps only rubbers that are already cheap in the first place. Sounds logical to me  .
------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 07/30/2010 at 11:32pm
Vis-à-vis more spin and cash flow... while this answer functions it is obviously fundamentally flawed thus creating the otherwise buzzing sound on the enez machine at tournaments. ------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: Imago
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 2:13am
| Recently, I have found that buying a hew rubber is the best topsheet restoration. |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 2:28am
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at last somebody makes sense here ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: Heimdallalso
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 2:54am
Spoken like a man who's never tried what has been tried & is under consideration. ------------- NEXY Lissom st 85g fh/ Andro Impuls Speed max bh/ Palio Flying Dragon 1.8 |
Posted By: SuperFX
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 3:09am
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did this with my neo prov. worked like a charm....gave me two more months before switching to blue sponge g999 national.. ------------- Yinhe/galaxy/milkyway mc-2 H3 PRO 20# 39 deg permtuned Haifu Shark II Factorytuned 2.2 -36 |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 3:15am
Interesting... I've got an old Spin Art topsheet... care to help me restore it? ------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 9:15am
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I usually wet sanded old dead topsheets with 1000 then 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper if I wasdesperate to get some more life from them before I could get new ones. Well these days I just buy new ones, but for many years I did this, I was able to get 3 years from a Chinese rubber no problem if I sanded the dead outer layer off it once each 12 months. But today for an experiment I took a 20 year old Double fish 815 that hasn't been used in more than 15 years. This rubber was probably the most tacky tacky rubber ever by the way :), anyway I sanded the oxide off it, bit of oil, bit of soap, bit more sanding. Bit of glue to re-awaken the sponge, Now it's gone from a dead mirror to holding a ball for more than 5 seconds, which isn't much different to the last time it was used. I'm so impressed I'm going to use it and see how a old time classic Chinese rubber compares to a modern rubber
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Posted By: minicd
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 9:41am
| why do you try the rubber revitalizer Kenetix, it works really well for restoring and maintaining the topsheet, what i know is the compound is made from the same compaund they use to preserved the rubber before packaging, cant beat that |
Posted By: Heimdallalso
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 1:57pm
 ------------- NEXY Lissom st 85g fh/ Andro Impuls Speed max bh/ Palio Flying Dragon 1.8 |
Posted By: Imago
Date Posted: 07/31/2010 at 2:23pm
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Unfortunately, my Spin Arts are sold. If you can wait more than a month I can assist you in getting a new one @ $48 + shipping. |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 08/01/2010 at 12:16am
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Well thanks that's very generous of you! Seeming that Spin Art is $65 I can use any break to get a lower price!
------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: Imago
Date Posted: 08/01/2010 at 2:21am
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The new price of Spin Art at Megaspin will be $78, I suppose. Anyway, from time to time, I revitalize some rubbers with ordinary baby oil from our local producer. This seems to be a viable practice considering the new soaring height of BTY prices. TB ALC with Memo 3 on BH is also a good revenge. |
Posted By: yassermuslim
Date Posted: 08/02/2010 at 1:01pm
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To achieve the best results you better do this exercise while the rubber is off the blade
Re,
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Posted By: glanden.zheng
Date Posted: 08/02/2010 at 9:07pm
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Does some people also apply the oil to the sponge itself? I would like to know the effects of paraffin oil on rubbers like Hurricane...
------------- Butterfly Viscaria FL FH: Hurricane 3 Prov BH: Tenergy 05 |
Posted By: pdotec
Date Posted: 08/02/2010 at 9:42pm
| Anyone add oil to tenergy 64? My sheet is pretty dead now and I'm tempted to try it. |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 08/02/2010 at 10:16pm
I might try it when it gets older... If I don't sell it to a friend first (still not completely sold on T64 but I am warming up to it) @glanden.zheng - I think peter79 has tuned some sheets with it before... ------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: peter79
Date Posted: 08/03/2010 at 3:23am
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Tuning H3 neo provincial or national is a must. My H3 national neo blue sponge loose it's factory tune in 2 weeks. It become slow and I got frustrated. I tune it with baby oil at first, but the result isn't that great.
Later I tune it with Parafin oil, it has been more than 2 weeks now, still plays very well and hasn't slow down from the first time tuning. ------------- Andro Wanokiwami AO Offensive 83 gr H3 National Orange 40 deg 2.2 Baracuda Max 182 Gr |
Posted By: zheyi
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 1:36am
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mine h3 prov tuned once 2 months ago and still playing well. but has been bored so
switching to a blue sponge now.. yet to test in details. but from the way i can feel,
orange sponge is more bouncy.. should suit me more then the blue sponge. --- shall see...
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Posted By: sugengz
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 2:34am
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I put parafin oil on topsheet of my Neo H3C 40degree, just like the video on the first post.... After one time application, and let it dry (more precisely soaked), and the topsheet become softer and more elastic... Become a little bit tacky, but not as tacky as it was when I open it for the first time from the plastic pack. It play much better than the brand new. When I remove it from the blade, the rubber is dome a lot, it seems like the topsheet expand... Pretty tough to reglue it with that condition. FYI: I use Haifu WBG. After reglue, it still plays very good. Over all, after the tuning on topsheet using Parafin oil, my Neo H3C, softer more elastic, no significant change on speed, but spin much better.... Worth to try (of course at your own risk... :D ) |
Posted By: Kolev
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 7:01am
Yes I did-one thick layer olive oil. It definitely became gripper, but since then I suspect it had become a tad heavier. BTW, I am talking about a T64 which I have since April 2009 and it still plays OK ------------- Hallmark Carbon Extreme (x3) FH: D05/G1/RX BH: Z2/D64/Ω7Pro |
Posted By: bull_harrier
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 7:51am
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I can't remember the name of the stuff but a guy I know put one layer of this green (green as in the catchword for environmental) stuff on a sheet of old rubber and it's grip came back quite well. It was something he put on remote control car tires to restore its grip and traction. I'll try to look it up and get back about it
------------- Clipper CR WRB FH: Boost TP BH: Boost TP http://www.youtube.com/user/bullharrier - My Biology/Physiology Learning Channel on Youtube |
Posted By: bull_harrier
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 2:23pm
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The stuff is called Simple Green
------------- Clipper CR WRB FH: Boost TP BH: Boost TP http://www.youtube.com/user/bullharrier - My Biology/Physiology Learning Channel on Youtube |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 2:33pm
http://www.simplegreen.com - www.simplegreen.com Thanks for the info bull, I'll try it. ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: bull_harrier
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 3:31pm
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Cool, let me know what you think fatt. He only applied one layer to the rubber just as a heads up
------------- Clipper CR WRB FH: Boost TP BH: Boost TP http://www.youtube.com/user/bullharrier - My Biology/Physiology Learning Channel on Youtube |
Posted By: JimT
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 3:56pm
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What I do rather regularly (once every week or two) with my working rubbers is this: Squeeze one-two drops of GooGone citrus oil based cleaner (can be had at Walmart for 4-5 bucks per small bottle) on a piece of lint-free slightly wet paper towel, then wipe the rubber with it. Let it sit for a minute, then wipe it off with regular wet paper towel. Then same with the other side. First, it helps to get rid of the accumulated dirt. Secondly, it freshens up your topsheet without making it heavy - I do not go for real full absorption, just for the cleanup-refresh of the very thin top layer of the rubber. ------------- Single Ply Hinoki Club, Founding Member Say "no!" to expensive table tennis equipment. Please... |
Posted By: minicd
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 4:27pm
| LOL..... |
Posted By: debraj
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 6:19pm
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most oils are is great.... and i think kenetix is nothing but oil and water solution. ------------- 729-F1||Rhyzm-P(FH)|| Rasant Grip orRhyzm-P max(BH) http://youtu.be/y9y9nE9g778" rel="nofollow - vid1 http://youtu.be/xqNy786yGOs" rel="nofollow - Vid 2 |
Posted By: Egghead
Date Posted: 08/04/2010 at 8:26pm
I get the lamp oil from Walmart. For 6 dollars, you can have 1L lamp oil ; I applied the lamp oil (kerosene base) on my H2 topsheet. The topsheet does not expand, but the rubber does become soft. However, the smell is a dead giveaway.------------- Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 08/05/2010 at 2:42am
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I just put a small layer of olive oil on my old spin art... can't wait to see how it ends up!
------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: minicd
Date Posted: 08/05/2010 at 1:38pm
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chemistry 101, OIL AND WATER DONT MIXED!!
LOL
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Posted By: minicd
Date Posted: 08/05/2010 at 1:41pm
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just go with trial and errors, specially if you have alot of rubbers to spare, commercial chemicals, are always very corrosive, thats why they are commercial grade, im sure that alot of these cleaner like googone and commercial cleaners and oil will work, but im sure you will shorten your rubber life drasticlly. been there done that,,, you need something to clean and maintain the clean and new rubber feel, specially when you just broken in your rubber. again let me repeat, CHEMISTRY 101, water and oil doesnt mixe..... LOL, that cracked me up.
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Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 08/05/2010 at 5:49pm
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Well the oil soaked in to the spin art topsheet last night... it left a little marking where the oil was thicker... I used a little spin max and it cleared it up. No noticeable increase in the tackiness of the topsheet however... but spin art is really midly tacky so that could be the reason. Now to go hit some with it! ------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 08/05/2010 at 6:19pm
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hey thaidog did you ever try ultra pure lamp oil? http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productdetails.aspx?sku=998005822 - http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productdetails.aspx?sku=998005822 http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/ultra-pure-lamp-oil-255232/ - http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/ultra-pure-lamp-oil-255232/ I use that one and it works beyond my expectations on old 729 sheets that my buddies use in my garage. The only problem is you need to do it any time you play. The advantage of the method is it is SO CHEAP! Also it is the best to boost the rubber by applying it to the sponge (3 ml twice). It is not detectable by enez (I tried). http://borkoandson.com/lampoil/msds_ultra_pure_lamp_oil.pdf - http://borkoandson.com/lampoil/msds_ultra_pure_lamp_oil.pdf The reason is VOC are SOOOOO LOOOOOW
But you knew all this did not you? ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 12:05am
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Well spin art played judt fine today... so tonight I took out one of my unused oil brushes and painted a nice thick coat of olive oil.. no telling how long it will take to dry! Could be interesting to see if there is any change in tackiness this time. Would adding oil to a topsheet remove oxidation marks? If so it could be a nive way to clean up Apollo sheets! ------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 1:38pm
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I had a go at something I've been thinking about to repair a rubber today. I took a heat gun and quickly passed it over a old marked oxidized Neo that had been left out without a cover for a year. Just pass the heat gun over it enough to make the topsheet shiny again. Be careful not to get it too hot so just do a small part at a time, if it gets too hot it will separate from the sponge and bubble. By the way I inadvertently figured out how to fix bubbles at the same time, since I did make one but if you put a book over the rubber while it's still hot the glue will reset perfectly, so you can use this to fixed bubbled rubbers also. Once the topsheet was shiny again I put 3 layers of olive oil, then cleaned it with foam rubber cleaner, now it's really nice again |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 1:58pm
The way I imagine it is a hot roll covered with very fine sand paper. That roll will rotate fast while pressing on the topsheet and advancing slowly with a liquid lubricating the topsheet applied generously before. For sure with the prices of rubbers going up we'll have to get something like that. ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 2:14pm
| hha, this sheet actually looks pretty much as good as new, I often wet sand the old top layer off sheets and play with them just fine but they aren't super tacky once you do that, I was never able to get that fine a polish like a fresh moulded sheet. Now I can sand the dead layer off and then make them tacky again with the heat :). I actually have a very old sheet of H2 blue sponge that I sanded so that the top sheet is veeeeeery thin which I will make shiny and tacky again. Home made pro rubber :p |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 2:23pm
------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 3:31pm
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I've been working on this some more since my last post, currently I've made my "pro sheet" of H2 so sticky I can't even touch it lol or my finger gets stuck on it like glue and its shinnnny like a mirror. But the key to everything seems to be, once you ahve melted the sheet so that it's glossy, once it's coole a bit then rub some olive oil into it, that seems to condition it so it's not so crazy sticky. I actually got this one so hot to melt the scratches out of it from my heavy sanding without it unglueing, hot enough to be difficult to hang onto the sponge actually. edit: wowoooo woops, I think I've destablized this rubber :) it's just turned into glue, bad bad hah I need to figure out what to put on it to make it set hard again :)
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Posted By: JimT
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 3:57pm
That is so wack... and so illegal, LOL  If Sharara read this topic he would have plotzed!  ------------- Single Ply Hinoki Club, Founding Member Say "no!" to expensive table tennis equipment. Please... |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 4:31pm
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hhah, I'm not going to use a dodgy rubber in competition :). Although I have used sanded rubbers, but then again when I did it was probably legal and even now, it's just wear and tear :D. I can't even get this thing unstuck off my hand, all that easily, it's just silly. But just in case he does read it, lest jsut be done with fast rubbers and more spin and have the 38mm ball!? back :P then there's more than enough of everything straight up on a $5 rubber :)?
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Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 08/06/2010 at 10:26pm
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What kind of sandpaper are you using? Also what kind of "heat gun" are you using?
------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 08/07/2010 at 12:06am
 ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: Egghead
Date Posted: 08/08/2010 at 1:34am
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my H2 was as hard as a brick, but it is very very playable now. However, I found that it is hard to clear with water
------------- Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX |
Posted By: rupertgriffin
Date Posted: 08/08/2010 at 8:47am
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Saw that the Simple Green stuff might work so I tried http://www.ats.co.nz/site/ashburton/images/large/550x9999/Mr%20Muscle%20Orange%205lt%200505.JPG - Mr Muscle Orange. Sprayed an old omega 3 and wiped it off straight away. Magically the grip came back! Thanks guys :D! I recommend it. It says it has orange oil in it too ------------- http://www.tabletennisonline.blogspot.com - http://www.tabletennisonline.blogspot.com |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 08/08/2010 at 1:27pm
Just normal wet and dry sandpaper, and a normal heat gun, you know the ones you use to remove paint with and various of jobs :). I fixed one rubber that had only been sanded with super fine paper in the past with just some very slight heat gun action it was shiny like new, but the other one that was heavily sanded, to get that smoth again I needed a lot of heat to re-melt the topsheet shiny and it somehow unvulcanised the rubber and made it liek glue :P so don't do that. The first one turned out perfect how ever :)
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Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 08/08/2010 at 2:26pm
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Heat-Guns/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1Zbauo/h_d2/Navigation?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 - http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Heat-Guns/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1Zbauo/h_d2/Navigation?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
the one at $35.99 might be useful (?)
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Heat-Guns/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh8Zbauo/R-100396206/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 - http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Heat-Guns/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh8Zbauo/R-100396206/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I am going to the home depot in an hour to buy pvc to make a catch ball net so I might buy that guy as well. ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 08/08/2010 at 6:14pm
| Yep that's a pretty normal looking heat gun :), but that's almost a sheet of expensive rubber :). Then again you'll use it for heaps of stuff. I lost count of how many times I've used mine over the years. Stipping paint/tar. Heating metal so interference fits go on easy etc. Don't forget to be gentle on the rubber or you might end up with a sheet of black glue like my second attempt :P, best to have it on high heat then just flick it over the rubber, on spot at a time until you see it go juussssssst glossy, then let the rubber cool a bit then do another bit etc |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 09/10/2010 at 7:12pm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310249522308 - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310249522308 I'll be on nicefrog's steps in a few days trying to revive a 3 years old rubber that stayed in the air in my garage for 3 years. It is a 729 rubber that I bought $2.45 from eacheng.net (I had purchased 48 of them for a class). ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: Egghead
Date Posted: 09/10/2010 at 11:28pm
hmm, those stuff work (I try the green works which has lemon oil in it, the grip and spin are back), may be I will try try the pc monitor screen cleaner  ------------- Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX |
Posted By: tompy
Date Posted: 09/11/2010 at 5:42am
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I tried many things last few years ; olive-oil, parrafine, eucalyptus-oil, glycerine, baby-oil and it makes not much difference what I use as long as the rubber absorbs it it seems to work for increasing the grip or keep it at the same level longer (more then a year is no problem). More etheric thin fluid oils like lemon-oil or eucalyptus work in shorter time. They are absorbed and penetrate in to the topsheet quicker. Then the effect may seem stronger but Olive-oil to me does approx the same. Eucalyptus has some advantage for speed but then I could also use faster rubbers. Spin is my main concern. Disadvantage is that it evaporates much faster (etheric oil). To use these thin oilsproperly it makes no sense to let it absorb for an hour and then play. All the oil is still at the outer surface of the rubber then. How strong it smells is how fast it evaporates again also. A sealing method can avoid this. Easiest to seal is to use some plastic or and spread that out on the topsheet (or sponge) after applying the tuner. The tuning layer makes it stick on grippy topsheets also. The oils can,t evaporate then and mix in with the rubber. After twenty-four hours it feels as a new rubber where you take the thin plastic sheet of. "High viscosity", long ballholding time etc it says on packages of tacky chinese rubbers and that,s what the tuning does. The whole rubber becomes more viscous, same as new rubber has a more gelly/viscous feel as older, worn out and dried out, rubbers. Rubber contains oils allready when you buy it new. Added to the rubber mixture at the factory to keep it supple and grippy. Only thing to be cautious about is to threat the rubber and get it from the blade then. It has anegative dome then. Treating the topsheet after the rubber is applied to the blade it builds a tension between topsheet and sponge (which would make it unreglementar). The topsheet wants to expand but the blade keeps it from expanding means tension. Only then it gives a slight glued feel. On the reglamentary part it dependsa little. When I glue on a new rubber sheet (no dome) and then tune the topsheet afterwards I build in tension and have a -minimal -tension effect from it that mostly works for spin not so much for speed. But when the rubber is on the blade for a week or a few weeks and I do nothing the rubber is shrinking as it dries (the shrinking tenergybut tensors have this in a extreme way also). The blade holds it from shringking wich means that doing nothing I build tension also. This time the build in tension works out negative but the reglementssay nothing about how it works out for playing. So doing nothing would be just as irregular then doing something. It becomes regular maintenance then and therefor it,s regular. Often when I buy new rubber it has a slight negative dome. Gluing iton the blade I also build in negative tension...irregular. So I give it a few tuning layers to avoid that I build in - irregular - tension. After a few week if I feel the rubber becomes negatively tensioned I have to tune again to avoid a referee could have problems with my setup. |
Posted By: bozbrisvegas
Date Posted: 12/13/2021 at 3:06pm
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Everyone probably noticed that the whole rubber wore out except for the part where your fingers usually sit. I am guessing this is because of the constant oil added to the rubber from the fingers which probably protects the rubber against oxidation. Which makes me wonder if what we should do as soon as we finish playing is: 1. wash off the dust 2. add a thin layer of cooking oil (something organic without volatile chemicals) don't allow it to evaporate. 3. seal the rubber with plastic sheet to keep the oil in and O2 out, then air bubles would do less damage. Be proactive about making your rubber last, instead of trying to restore something already lost... Only thing I would worry about is the topsheet getting too soft, gluggy...
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