Cutting rubbers' technique ...
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Topic: Cutting rubbers' technique ...
Posted By: Pioneer
Subject: Cutting rubbers' technique ...
Date Posted: 10/15/2010 at 9:05pm
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Do you have a special technique when you cut a new sheet ?
------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Replies:
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 12:26am
| I use a type of scissors (very sharp) designed for cutting carpet pads. |
Posted By: JasonRShaver
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 2:03am
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I cut about 20-30 rubbers a week for the store (www.ttxonline.com) and I use a Killerspin cutting board, a #4 scalpel with a long thin blade with rounded tip (#35 or something like that). The trick to getting a fast, clean cut is to start on one end with the blade about 30-40 degrees to the cutting board and trying to 'bend' the knife around the wood of the blade. Don't press too hard, expect to take 2 to 5 laps around it. I should make a video. I know some people use scalpels that look like exact-o knifes (with a point), but I find that I only get 4-5 cuts before it is a throw away, sometimes less. With the method above, a single blade lasts 30+ cuts. Also, Chinese rubbers can be VERY annoying to cut (729 Super FX and the old Galaxy Mercury for example), but ones like Yasaka Pryde are easy. I have tried 4 types of scissors, but never had any luck getting it perfect. It ends up looking like you cut it yourself. With the scalpel, it looks like it came out of the package that way. Also, one last tip, NEVER try to 'clean up' the edges when you make a mistake. You will just make it worse.
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Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 4:49am
Wow Thank you JasonRShaver very helpful tips indeed, specially the last one, I can tell  you should make a video about that really will be a great job but let me know about it  I have a friend who uses a cutter skillfully, actually he has cut my Yasaka GPS and it was a masterpiece, but I use scissors only and wanna develop another technique like scalpel ... But I have got you two questions: How to trim a rubber on another blade which is not originally cut for, is it better to cut a rubber precisely or just leave a little bit margin 2mm for example?
------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
JasonRShaver wrote:Posted By: Sallom89
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 5:15am
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I've made a topic and a vid about it here: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37311&PN=1#459207 - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37311&PN=1#459207 ------------- Member of Wang Hao fan club. Hurricane Hao III FH: Thors RPB: Omega Pro |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 8:38am
thanx a lot ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: JasonRShaver
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 1:01pm
If you have more than 4mm to work with, it should be easy, less than 2mm and you just have to expect it will not be perfect. If the profile is one where part of it is less than 2mm and part is greater, just expect the transition point may look a little rough.
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Posted By: dragon kid
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 2:30pm
 ..------------- 'Nobody is Perfect. I am Nobody' |
Posted By: Sallom89
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 3:44pm
You r welcomed ! ------------- Member of Wang Hao fan club. Hurricane Hao III FH: Thors RPB: Omega Pro |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 7:18pm
Congrats, you've got a hand of a surgeon  ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: Phot0n
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 9:46pm
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I completely agree with JasonRShaver. Maybe his last name should be "Cutter" or "Trimmer" instead :) I can get rubbers to look nearly as good as with a blade, and rounded blades last longer and seem better suited for the multiple laps you need to do. Yeah, some of the Chinese rubbers are really hard to cut. With scissors its even worse. It's enough that the tips will bend apart and not cut at all. --Phot0n ------------- Palio TC6 | Globe 999T FH & BH Palio TCT | Hadou FH, HK1997 BH Galaxy T-4 | 729 Focus-II FH & BH |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/16/2010 at 10:23pm
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you know it's really bothering me when I re-glue the rubber, usually miss putting the rubber precisely, only by fraction from here or there ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: raphyelrosby
Date Posted: 10/17/2010 at 5:09pm
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I usually just get some sharp scissors and voila, but I don't really care if it looks good, just never bothered to worry about it.
------------- Xiom Hayabusa ZX, Sigma II pro on FH, Vega Elite BH. |
Posted By: Phot0n
Date Posted: 10/18/2010 at 2:59am
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I'm a bit of a perfectionist... I can deal with some imperfections on my rubber trim... but not re-gluing my rubber back on perfectly is like an OCD nightmare for me. ------------- Palio TC6 | Globe 999T FH & BH Palio TCT | Hadou FH, HK1997 BH Galaxy T-4 | 729 Focus-II FH & BH |
Posted By: mhnh007
Date Posted: 10/18/2010 at 11:04am
If the margin is too small says 1mm, then it is hard to trim. It's better that you trace it first, cut then re-glue. |
Posted By: mmerkel
Date Posted: 10/18/2010 at 11:33am
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I heard from a member who cuts the rubbers roughly to shape at first and then uses (very carefully) a stationary belt sander to trim off the overhang.
------------- #1 RL Balance -Bluefire M2 -Acuda S2 #2 RL Avalanche#2 -Bluefire M2 -Sigma Europe #3 Primorac -Boost TP -Magna TC |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/18/2010 at 5:32pm
very weird technique indeed, and have you tried that yourself ? ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: mmerkel
Date Posted: 10/18/2010 at 8:28pm
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I have tried to clean up a bad cut with a random orbital sander, but there was so much sponge dust and rubber pieces flying about that I needed a change of clothes afterwards. But the rubber edge looked really nice. Might work better with the right equipment tho. ------------- #1 RL Balance -Bluefire M2 -Acuda S2 #2 RL Avalanche#2 -Bluefire M2 -Sigma Europe #3 Primorac -Boost TP -Magna TC |
Posted By: EZRO
Date Posted: 10/18/2010 at 9:29pm
| All I use is a Knife Cutter, I got from a local bookstore. I've been using it for more than 10 years :D |
Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 10/19/2010 at 12:41am
Yep! It was so bad for a while that I would wind up using extra coats of rubber cement on the blade between ripping and resetting to fix a 1mm overhang or underhang issue. Who am I kidding, I still do that. Although with water glue, it's like a half hour mistake instead of a 5 minute fix. And great video to Sallom! ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |
Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 10/19/2010 at 1:02am
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I use the killerspin cutting board with the exacto like blades sold at PP. Do not use exacto brand blades is the best advice I can give... their edges are not sharp enough and do not give a clean cut.
------------- Timo ALC FL Tibhar Grip S MAx Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm He never boosts... of course he never had to... |
Posted By: Sallom89
Date Posted: 10/19/2010 at 2:35am
Thanks! my thread is lost by now lol ------------- Member of Wang Hao fan club. Hurricane Hao III FH: Thors RPB: Omega Pro |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/19/2010 at 2:49pm
Yeah it's really a messy thing ... but does this method apply to soft rubbers ? ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: JasonRShaver
Date Posted: 10/21/2010 at 3:39pm
You know, I first tried to do it with a http://www.amazon.com/Gillette-8559-Mach3-Cartridge-12-Count/dp/B000XVTYYY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1287689887&sr=8-1 - Mach 3 ...
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Posted By: mmerkel
Date Posted: 10/21/2010 at 3:59pm
This works (except for the mess) with any type of rubber I have tried...mostly euro/jap soft sponge. ------------- #1 RL Balance -Bluefire M2 -Acuda S2 #2 RL Avalanche#2 -Bluefire M2 -Sigma Europe #3 Primorac -Boost TP -Magna TC |
Posted By: Phot0n
Date Posted: 10/22/2010 at 10:06pm
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Ok, I'm just gunna throw it out there... has anyone every tried using a soldering iron or some type of heated blade to melt the rubber? It seems like it would leave a smooth cut, but it also could cause scorch marks on your rubber or even wood. And maybe a few harmful gasses... but... has it been done? Maybe after a cut to smooth it out? Flame away ;)
------------- Palio TC6 | Globe 999T FH & BH Palio TCT | Hadou FH, HK1997 BH Galaxy T-4 | 729 Focus-II FH & BH |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/23/2010 at 10:30am
Never heard something like that, and I think it could sabotage the rubber and make a really nasty smell as we're dealing here with rubber not a plastic thing ... ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: wkm1
Date Posted: 10/23/2010 at 7:22pm
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Quote:...I heard from a member who cuts the rubbers roughly to shape at first and then uses (very carefully) a stationary belt sander to trim off the overhang..... That was possibly me  .Never had a problem, smooth edges only have to blow off aftwerwards the fine rubber dust. And do it longitudal, not across the Blade. Works on European, Japenese and Chines rubber. Since my main hobby is Modelairplanes I have all the other tolls mentioned her in this tread and more ( eg Special scissors for kevlar fibre), but the stationary beltsander delivers the cleanest cut. Cheers T
------------- Cheers T Blades:custom Zebrano Spin-Art, Nittaku Acoustic and OSP V+ plus some Gum on both sides |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/24/2010 at 9:38am
Have you tried Phot0n's mentioned method ? ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: wkm1
Date Posted: 10/24/2010 at 11:28am
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Yes, I have 3 different soldering irons and used some rubber cut off pieces for a trial. 1. the smell is bad 2 the cut wasn't cleaner sharper as with the band grinder. ------------- Cheers T Blades:custom Zebrano Spin-Art, Nittaku Acoustic and OSP V+ plus some Gum on both sides |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/24/2010 at 12:46pm
Yeah I can imagine how bad the smell is, it makes you vomit  ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/25/2010 at 10:24pm
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Is cutting OX rubber easier than inverted ? and with cutter or scissors ? ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: Sabito
Date Posted: 10/25/2010 at 10:50pm
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you draw a line about 2 mm off the blade for both rubbers, that way your rubbers will give you a little big sweet spot together with the blade and you simply cut it with a pair of scissors, no need of a cutter or a sharper blade. source: maself!:) Ive cut lots of rubbers, and my friends often ask me to cut their brand new rubbers.
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Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/26/2010 at 9:53am
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I think to outline then cut the rubber is more difficult than glue and cut, as it needs a steady hand and after gluing the rubber becomes stretched and that will increase the margin ...
------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: pnachtwey
Date Posted: 10/26/2010 at 12:41pm
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I used an exacto knife in the past but the cuts were rough in places where I had to go over the same spot more than once or the scissors were cutting through pips. I use scissors now. Scissor make a nice smooth cut. The only problem is getting started by the handle because the handle is in the way. When cutting I make short cuts using the most efficient part of the scissors and I follow the profile of the blade. ------------- I TT therefore I am |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/26/2010 at 10:48pm
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The only problem is getting started by the handle because the handle is in the way. Totally agree with you ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: shakepender
Date Posted: 10/27/2010 at 8:46am
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The guy in the shop that I bought my tt blade and rubbers from in Taiwan used a quite flexible blade to cut round the tt blade in 2 to 3 quick large movements whilst turning the tt blade at the same time... over a glass table top. The blade of the knife was bent with only the cutting part against the tt blade. Of course... he does this a few times a day! The rubber is slightly over the wooden edge of the tt blade. ------------- Viscaria : Omg IV Pro / Omg IV Euro |
Posted By: Sallom89
Date Posted: 10/27/2010 at 9:03am
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Sorry to post this again (this time the video, not the thread).. because it seems that many people need to see it. ------------- Member of Wang Hao fan club. Hurricane Hao III FH: Thors RPB: Omega Pro |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/27/2010 at 10:05am
flexible blade like sallom89's in his video ? the really issue here that it makes scratches to the table even it's a glass one ... and by the way, did he charge you for cutting ?
------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: shakepender
Date Posted: 10/27/2010 at 10:17pm
Yes, similar blade... he just did it in 2 to 3 quick movements but he would be doing this a few times a day. I don't think I would be able to do it... the finished outcome was perfectly smooth & even.
No, he doesn't charge for cutting & gluing if you buy from his shop. ------------- Viscaria : Omg IV Pro / Omg IV Euro |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/28/2010 at 3:48am
me too I don't think I would be able to do it, because I'm afraid to sabotage the rubber and it's expensive, so I go for my scissors, but I think one day I will put a rubber at risk and try cutting by cutter, hope I don't regret that ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: shakepender
Date Posted: 10/28/2010 at 6:26am
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yes... sallom's method (per his video clip) is the sensible way to do it... and the finish is very good too.
------------- Viscaria : Omg IV Pro / Omg IV Euro |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/28/2010 at 7:11pm
in spite of being jealous, I should agree with you  ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: Sallom89
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 3:32am
Hahahhaha :D ------------- Member of Wang Hao fan club. Hurricane Hao III FH: Thors RPB: Omega Pro |
Posted By: Tobhik
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 3:36am
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the cutter is not sharp, a sharp cutter will cut in only 2 movement and looks like he cuts a chunk of wood also? ------------- LP ox |
Posted By: Sallom89
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 4:12am
Mine? it was new and sharp.. the rubber is very hard and also porous.. no didn't cut any wood, removed some buildup glue which bothered my cutting path. ------------- Member of Wang Hao fan club. Hurricane Hao III FH: Thors RPB: Omega Pro |
Posted By: JKC
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 5:01am
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I would be interested to know if anyone has a way of cutting Calibra (or Sound) without making it look like they have chewed through the sponge. It you try to cut the sponge in one, you get 3 or 4 little tears in the sponge around the edge. If you take a few passes to cut through the sponge it shreds the edge. And yes I was using a very sharp knife. ------------- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34kRbLNCcpk" rel="nofollow - Fred 49 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGShBxEKnDk%20rel=" rel="nofollow - I once could serve |
Posted By: Sallom89
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 5:44am
I guess it would be no problem if you went gentle the first few strokes.. before making the video I did cut 2x Tibhar sinus alpha, it was fine doing the same method also.. I think it works for every rubber, since I tried it from the softest (roundel soft, solcion) to the hardest (spinart, TG3, H3) works well. ------------- Member of Wang Hao fan club. Hurricane Hao III FH: Thors RPB: Omega Pro |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 6:40am
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I use a blade like the video above and a chopping board (nylon or plastic) but use a decent sharp 9mm box cutter blade one cut right round sssssss done the end, perfect as you want. Snap the blade to a new one each to you do a new rubber |
Posted By: JKC
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 8:29am
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Was that on Calibra nicefrog? ------------- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34kRbLNCcpk" rel="nofollow - Fred 49 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGShBxEKnDk%20rel=" rel="nofollow - I once could serve |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 8:43am
| No ?:) but it works the same on every other million sheets I've cut |
Posted By: JKC
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 8:50am
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That method works on every other sponge I have done too, but Calibra gets a few 1/2 cm tears in the sponge around the edge when you cut in this way. It seems to stick to the knife and pull. A friend suggested oiling or moistening the knife, I will be cutting some more in the next few days so may try it. ------------- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34kRbLNCcpk" rel="nofollow - Fred 49 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGShBxEKnDk%20rel=" rel="nofollow - I once could serve |
Posted By: nicefrog
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 9:03am
| That's odd, but yeah water on the knife might do the trick, I guess a little couple of drops of baby oil or something to smoothen it wouldn't hurt either |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 10/29/2010 at 12:15pm
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What about Vaseline ? ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: wkm1
Date Posted: 11/04/2010 at 1:12am
 No video just 2 pictures, how you sand the rubber (above) and the result I bet you can't get a better, straighter and cleaner cut with a knife scissor.  ------------- Cheers T Blades:custom Zebrano Spin-Art, Nittaku Acoustic and OSP V+ plus some Gum on both sides |
Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 11/05/2010 at 11:03am
What all these tools for  but nice cut eventually ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 11/05/2010 at 12:39pm
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I use #4 exacto blade and get a very clean cut with 2 strokes. I wait 1 hour before cutting rubber to allow glue to set up hard. Anyone having difficulty with rough edge can use #400 grit sandpaper to smooth it out being careful not to sand the blade edge. There is no right way per say whatever works best for you. ------------- Wood Paddle Red side Black side. |
Posted By: Ashes
Date Posted: 11/05/2010 at 2:28pm
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Salloms way seems to be the best. I cut many rubbers using this technique (tenergy, stiga almana sound, pips out, all kinds of dhs and 729). You just have to have gentle hands, don't press too hard on the rubber, let it cut instead of tear. Also try getting a low angle with the table surface because the cutter blade will have more contact, cutting it gently. Water on the blade helps but form my experience saliva is way better than water. The cut is almost factory like. Another thing to keep in mind is that in order to cut clean at the edges of rubber sheet you must cut from outside into the rubber, otherwise it will stretch and tear.
------------- Blade: YEO FH: H3P BH: Pryde 40 |
Posted By: Parth.Nayak
Date Posted: 11/05/2010 at 2:49pm
can boost TC can be cut using blades? I once tried and ended up with rubber looking like a mess  this time I dont want to take a chance so let me know your comments please .......
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Posted By: mmerkel
Date Posted: 11/05/2010 at 3:10pm
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I have cut Boost TP with a knife. The blade is 3/4" high and segmented to break off the dull piece. I keep a very flat angle and use 3 to 4 strokes (depending on the fragility of the sponge). The result was as good as with any other rubber EXCEPT two rubbers that have a sponge that likes to break apart: Optimum MP and Gambler Outlaw (2nd gen.) ------------- #1 RL Balance -Bluefire M2 -Acuda S2 #2 RL Avalanche#2 -Bluefire M2 -Sigma Europe #3 Primorac -Boost TP -Magna TC |
Posted By: tsanyc
Date Posted: 11/05/2010 at 3:22pm
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becareful with the speed glue, it will expand sponge like crazy, after you do the perfect cut, then a reglue, the rubber becomes smaller.
my exp with T05 was like that.
Cutting part is easy. Put the rubber upside down, blade on the sponge, use a pen to trace the line. Use the utility knife cut on the line while the blade is still there, don't do it all the way. ... Becareful, don't cut the edge of the blade!!! the final step is to take a pair of sharp scissors and cut on the line.
Now you ready to glue, I recommend Yes! Paste. But it takes forever to dry
 One more thing, when cleaning the Yes! Paste off the blade, it might cause some wooden blade to change splinter, then you have to let dry and sandHope that helps
 cheers
tsa
------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27730&title=feedback-tsanyc - My Feedback 
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Posted By: Pioneer
Date Posted: 11/05/2010 at 5:55pm
What is that "#4 exacto blade " would you please post pics if possible? ------------- Blade: Timo Boll ZLF ST http://mytabletennis.net/forum/topic71344_post873640.html#873640" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: lixiaoduo
Date Posted: 12/16/2012 at 8:48pm
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Rubber cutting machine http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDI0NDU5Njg0.html - http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDI0NDU5Njg0.html
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