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Why do you add a layer of glue before boosting?

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Topic: Why do you add a layer of glue before boosting?
Posted By: TonyL
Subject: Why do you add a layer of glue before boosting?
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:17am
I bought the Falco Booster, and looking at the tutorial, it said to apply a layer of glue before applying to booster.

Anyone know why this is? 

Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: nikk64
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:43am
To slow adsorption of the oil solution in the sponge, and prolongs the action of tuning.Жест за одобрение

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Butterfly Boll Tricarbon off , FH- Armstrong Attack 8 PZC-SP EX-X- 4.0 , RPB-Butterfly Tenergy 80-FX- max
video-https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0vx5


Posted By: LUCKYLOOP
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:51am
Originally posted by nikk64 nikk64 wrote:

To slow adsorption of the oil solution in the sponge, and prolongs the action of tuning.Жест за одобрение


Why not just add smaller amounts of oil with each layer ?

With a first layer of glue, doesn't this cause an uneven distribution of the oil booster ?



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Hntr Fl / 4H & BH Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0
Yinhe T-2 / 4H Xiom Sig Pro 2 2.0 BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max
Gam DC / 4H DHS Hurricane 8 39deg 2.1 BH GD CC LP OX
HARDBAT / Hock 3 ply / Frenshp Dr Evil OX


Posted By: Imago
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:56am
Directly boosting the sponge may cause unwanted results - bubbles, uneven distribution of oil, etc.


Posted By: channyboi
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 8:02am
I think this applies more to boosters like dian chi because it's like oily thick, but i have heard people doing it with falco too.




Posted By: cole_ely
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 8:54am
actually if a tuner was oily it would decrease the need for a buffer glue layer.  Tuners that are thinner solvent tend to go right through the sponge and into the area where the topsheet is glued on.  that's where the problems come.
 
I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.


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Wavestone St with Illumina 1.9r, defender1.7b

Please let me know if I can be of assistance.


Posted By: Roger Stillabower
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:09am
For H3 non Neo I boost right on the sponge,but for a euro or jap I recommend over a thin glue layer to slow down the penetration. Just my own experience.      

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Shifter


Posted By: suds79
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:19am
Originally posted by cole_ely cole_ely wrote:

actually if a tuner was oily it would decrease the need for a buffer glue layer.  Tuners that are thinner solvent tend to go right through the sponge and into the area where the topsheet is glued on.  that's where the problems come.
 
I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.

That's what I've been trying to figure out. I've always boosted my frienship rubbers with my Falco right on the sponge. Never had a problem. Done this several times.

I once got a bubble from boosting a sheet of H2. I don't know if it's a one time thing or if it's a DHS issue but I've thought ever since i saw that video, if I ever buy DHS again, I'll be sure to add glue.

Problem is that I glue with rubber cement for sponge stuff (so easy) and Tear Mender for my OX rubbers. Adding a layer of rubber cement before boosting won't help me. That slightly expands the sponge. And I would think Tear Mender would create a barrier based on how I see it work.

I don't know what glue to add. I'm thinking I'll just apply the booster directly on in a thin, thin layer.

But I'm taking suggestions if anybody has ideas.... Would diluting the falco with just a pinch of water make sense??


Posted By: LUCKYLOOP
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:28am
Originally posted by suds79 suds79 wrote:

Originally posted by cole_ely cole_ely wrote:

actually if a tuner was oily it would decrease the need for a buffer glue layer.  Tuners that are thinner solvent tend to go right through the sponge and into the area where the topsheet is glued on.  that's where the problems come.
 

I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.


That's what I've been trying to figure out. I've always boosted my frienship rubbers with my Falco right on the sponge. Never had a problem. Done this several times.

I once got a bubble from boosting a sheet of H2. I don't know if it's a one time thing or if it's a DHS issue but I've thought ever since i saw that video, if I ever buy DHS again, I'll be sure to add glue.

Problem is that I glue with rubber cement for sponge stuff (so easy) and Tear Mender for my OX rubbers. Adding a layer of rubber cement before boosting won't help me. That slightly expands the sponge. And I would think Tear Mender would create a barrier based on how I see it work.

I don't know what glue to add. I'm thinking I'll just apply the booster directly on in a thin, thin layer.

But I'm taking suggestions if anybody has ideas.... Would diluting the falco with just a pinch of water make sense??



I tried it without glue by removing the rubber cement then applying, worked ok for me, put on in small layers.

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Hntr Fl / 4H & BH Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0
Yinhe T-2 / 4H Xiom Sig Pro 2 2.0 BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max
Gam DC / 4H DHS Hurricane 8 39deg 2.1 BH GD CC LP OX
HARDBAT / Hock 3 ply / Frenshp Dr Evil OX


Posted By: cole_ely
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:34am
I don't know if diluting with water is going to help. If you were going to dilute, I'd think you'd have to use something like parafin oil.

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Wavestone St with Illumina 1.9r, defender1.7b

Please let me know if I can be of assistance.


Posted By: AndySmith
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:54am
Originally posted by cole_ely cole_ely wrote:

I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.


Nope - with a thin glue layer, Falco still penetrates. It just takes longer.

I did my boosting experiment without a WBG layer, and the dome took a week to come down (2 layers, Falco Long). The example in the video showing Falco Long use didn't seem to need so much time for the dome to relax, so I'm presuming that this was the difference. Next time I'm going to try the same process, but with a single layer of WBG.

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This was a great signature until I realised it was overrated.


Posted By: Lau_hb
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 3:28pm

I boosted this provincial,39 degree, h3 neo by putting a very thin layer of dhs 15 glue first.

The first two thin layers didn't make the rubber curl much at all.

Third layer seemed to go through the sponge much more, and made the rubber curl on itself like it usually does when you boost on the sponge.

This is result 12 hours after the third layer, the dome almost came all the way down and it would be very easy to glue the rubber right now, especially with a strong glue. 

Pinching the rubber, it feels about as soft as a T05, which is pretty decent to me. I'll post another comment when I see how it plays because right now it feels like a much better way for boosting. A lot less trouble and time lost waiting for the rubber to uncurl.

 


Posted By: tom
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:29pm
"boosted this provincial,39 degree, h3 neo by putting a very thin layer of dhs 15 glue first."

Lau_hb, 

Is this DHS glue water-based?


Posted By: Lau_hb
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:40pm
Yes it water-based, it's pretty thick, but I think it would do the same with any glue considering how thin the layer was.


Posted By: ark8012
Date Posted: 03/31/2014 at 8:29pm
I think you need to apply one layer of glue if the rubber is not a new one. The one layer of glue will help to melt or soften the old glue, so the booster could penetrate it. 




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