Different Glues: Pro's and Cons
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Topic: Different Glues: Pro's and Cons
Posted By: NoRema
Subject: Different Glues: Pro's and Cons
Date Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:29pm
Comments to expand my list would be greatly appreciated :)Strongest Bond
Revolution 3:
Butterfly Free Chack
Donic Vario Clean
Donic Blue Contact
Elmer's Rubber Cement
Haifu Blue Whale WBG
Nittaku Finezip (more info please)
Tearmender (The Cheap Finezip)
DHS #15
Tulpe's Glue
------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70289&title=feedback-norema" rel="nofollow">  Click the picture for feedback ^ |
Replies:
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:36pm
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DOnic blue contact can definitely splinter your blade. Quite viscous and easy to apply -- one thin coat is all that is needed -- and gives very good playing qualities for large pored rubbers like Tenergy, but forget ever getting it off the sponge. |
Posted By: NoRema
Date Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:43pm
Agreed, but it's still my favorite glue ;) I only use it though on my main blades/rubbers that i know i won't be reselling. I love the feeling of it. I plan to use it when i get my MX-S in the mail. :) Also thank you for reminding me that it's great for large pored rubbers, Just added that to its description
------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70289&title=feedback-norema" rel="nofollow"> Click the picture for feedback ^ |
Baal wrote:Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:58pm
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tearmender: cheap. readily available. super easy cleanup. Great bond. Love that clicking sound. My friend preferred 18 dollar aurora on my zxi, more than his new tenergy. Voc free. also, easy to remove from sponge. lost skin from tip of my index finger removing lkt waterbased glue. I believe free chack is in the same region. If you got $, go for fine zip. Otherwise Tearmender does it well. -------------  "I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
Posted By: skip3119
Date Posted: 04/05/2015 at 10:32pm
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I switched from rubber cement (Elmer) to tearmender a few years ago, and I have never looked back. ------------- skip3119 |
Posted By: RyKnocks
Date Posted: 04/05/2015 at 11:00pm
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Wow, what a great thread. Can an administrator sticky this? Anyway, I'm currently using Elmers Rubber Cement but I think I'll give Tearmender a try with my next set of rubbers. ------------- BTY Viscaria: FH Black Battle II / BH Red 802-40 2.0mm Galaxy W-6: FH: FH/BH Yinhe Big Dipper 38* |
Posted By: NextLevel
Date Posted: 04/05/2015 at 11:28pm
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Donic Varioclean is still my personal favorite. Have never looked elsewhere - don't know how it compares to other stuff because I don't use other stuff. It can splinter bad blades but I can't remember any major problems with it. ------------- https://youtu.be/jhO4K_yFhh8?t=115" rel="nofollow - I like putting heavy topspin on the ball... Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:15am
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Elmers has voc right? ------------- "I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
Posted By: NoRema
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:16am
------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70289&title=feedback-norema" rel="nofollow"> Click the picture for feedback ^ |
Posted By: popperlocker
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 2:09am
I consider it voc, that stuff F**ks up my Tenergy. Imo, kills half the rubber life, and makes the rubber inconsistent. Every week it's like a different rubber.
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Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 2:19am
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Thing with tearmender is that i can start gluing process half an hour before game, and be good to go in twenty minutes. ------------- "I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
Posted By: kakapo
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 4:44am
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Dianchi: very liquid, needs 2 layers, very good and easy to remove from sponge and blade. This glue really stinks. I like Dianchi booster but prefer nittaku fine zip for glueing. Soulspin connect: also very liquid, takes a long time to dry if you don't use hairdryer. Not easy to remove from sponges usually used for short on long pimples rubbers. For those, you will have to be very very patient.... ------------- Def play grey grip 94gr, Venus 2 blue 2,2, Neubauer KO extreme 1,3mm |
Posted By: antipatrul
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 5:16am
| DHS №15 is the best glue for me and my club. Really easy to apply and to remove. It`s cheap and really strong, too |
Posted By: alex5908
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 7:30am
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Tulpe is a good water based glue. 300 ml for $18.66 at http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Tulpe-Tension-Table-Tennis-Ping-Pong-Glue-300ml/202364_1848553237.html. No need to remove. I mean I don't see any traces of the glue. Just re-apply glue when re-gluing. |
Posted By: haggisv
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 7:46am
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DHS #15 I found to be very inconsistant. Had some really good one early on, and then some bad ones full of little solid bits a few months later. I have not gone back since. I've tried the Tulpe one several years ago too. Strongest glue I even tried, was near impossible to removed from the blade without pulling off the fibres. I use Donic Vario for almost all bats I glue, as it's really easy to use, and provides a string enough bond to hold, but not too strong so it's still easy to remove. Nittaku Finezip is really good too, but expensive. ------------- Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX http://tabletennisshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=42" rel="nofollow - Tenergy Alternatives | http://tabletennis-reviews.com" rel="nofollow - My TT Articles |
Posted By: alex5908
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 7:59am
I am not quite sure but it seems like the technology for production of Tulpe glue has changed since that time. It's not strong at all. Rubbers can be easily removed from a blade but stay on firm. I've already used up one bottle and bought the second. I apply two layers of glue. 5 min interval between the layers. Definitely no chips on a blade after removing rubbers. I use lacquer on my blades, though. |
Posted By: NoRema
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 9:08am
How thick is it? Do you need multiple layers of glue? How easy is it to remove from your sponge? ------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70289&title=feedback-norema" rel="nofollow"> Click the picture for feedback ^ |
Posted By: NoRema
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 9:21am
I've experienced this with dhs#15, completely forgot about this glue though. It holds the rubber on tight and is easy to remove, but those little "floaters" are quite discerning. Thanks for the vario information, i've never used it. ------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70289&title=feedback-norema" rel="nofollow"> Click the picture for feedback ^ |
Posted By: haggisv
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:04am
Someone on OOAK had exactly the same problem, and this was quite recently, he said "Also if you can find it Kokutaku Tulpe voc free glue has a really strong bond and also stays on the blade,I used this myself the bond was too strong really without watering it down as the ox rubbers can rip when removing". It might simply be quality control, some batches much strreonger than others. This is the glue I'm referring to:  ------------- Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX http://tabletennisshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=42" rel="nofollow - Tenergy Alternatives | http://tabletennis-reviews.com" rel="nofollow - My TT Articles |
Posted By: NextLevel
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:16am
It's likely similar in some ways to Blue Contact though I have never used that before and I am just speculating. I would describe it best as thin rubber cement without the VOCs - it has ammonia in it to make it pretty smooth, and the stickiness tends to transfer with the sheet and the sponge - I have been able to transfer rubbers across blades without significant re-gluing. Never had any blade damaged except one extremely old one that was likely rotting already or blades with chips and cracks already - I don't seal or varnish. Right now, I use very thin layers and can get the job done with one thin layer on sponge and blade - there was a time I used multiple layers, but I no longer see the value and prefer a consistent one-time job, especially since I now have a rubber I trust. But you can use multiple layers if you want. With multiple layers, it is much easier to peel off, though not extremely easy. But since I don't move rubbers around anymore, I don't think about that seriously. If I do move a rubber, I would simply add a thin layer to the blade and not the sponge - it is thin enough that glue buildup is not significant unless you want it to be. ------------- https://youtu.be/jhO4K_yFhh8?t=115" rel="nofollow - I like putting heavy topspin on the ball... Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
Posted By: chroot
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:42am
I also had good experience with Donic Varioclean. I used to have some stiga blades with nct layer. Donic Varioclean is the only one which can glue the rubber firmly on the blades. One thin lay on the blade and one on the rubber, wait for about 10-15 minutes before putting the rubber on the blade. ------------- BTY Viscaria 90g DHS Hurricane 3 NEO, 39/2.1 BTY Tenergy 05 1.9 http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=62263" rel="nofollow - My Feedbacks |
Posted By: alex5908
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:45am
Mine is like this  |
Posted By: chroot
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:46am
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currently using rubber cement on Chinese rubbers and tear mender on tensors. rubber cement can soften the Chinese rubber (hurricane 3) a little bit. tear mender is easy to use and very easy to remove from both rubber and blade. ------------- BTY Viscaria 90g DHS Hurricane 3 NEO, 39/2.1 BTY Tenergy 05 1.9 http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=62263" rel="nofollow - My Feedbacks |
Posted By: alex5908
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:49am
Where do you buy it and how much is it? |
Posted By: chroot
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:56am
you can buy them from walmart.com. very cheap. ------------- BTY Viscaria 90g DHS Hurricane 3 NEO, 39/2.1 BTY Tenergy 05 1.9 http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=62263" rel="nofollow - My Feedbacks |
Posted By: skip3119
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:24pm
====================================== It will last you a long long time. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tear-Mender-Fabric-Leather-Adhesive-6-oz/17338063" rel="nofollow - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tear-Mender-Fabric-Leather-Adhesive-6-oz/17338063 ------------- skip3119 |
Posted By: yogi_bear
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:26pm
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Revolution no. 3 glue high viscosity. The best wbg! ------------- Independent online TT Product reviewer of XIOM, STIGA, JOOLA, SANWEI, GEWO, AIR, ITC, APEX, YASAKA and ABROS ITTF Level 1 Coaching Course Conductor, ITTF Level 1 Coach |
Posted By: NoRema
Date Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:39pm
that's what i've been using lately the most. but when i glue with it, i end up cutting my rubber afterwards and then the edges of the rubber start coming up, making me have to reglue it. ------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70289&title=feedback-norema" rel="nofollow"> Click the picture for feedback ^ |
Posted By: unprepared
Date Posted: 04/07/2015 at 8:12pm
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Butterfly Free Chack II: Very easy removal. I don't remember how strong the bond is. ------------- BTY Freitas ALC, Xiom Vega Europe DF |
Posted By: schen
Date Posted: 04/07/2015 at 8:54pm
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My thoughts on glues I've used: DHS #15 I must disagree with some of the ordering of bond strength in this list. DHS #15 is stronger than Tearmender and far stronger than RC in my experience. I also find the #15 relatively thick for a runny glue to the point where I must water it down a bit, but even then it is still thicker than TM. The trick with this glue to avoid clumping is not to use the crap square sponges that are typically provided with the bottle - use cosmetic wedges instead. One layer to the blade and one on the sponge is good enough if undiluted. Removes easily and even sometimes has a tendency to adhere to the blade instead of the sponge when peeling rubbers off. This is my current favorite by a wide margin. Nittaku Finezip Thick and pasty type of glue that comes in a tube. Takes a little longer to dry than most glues because it is so thick, but is also noticeably more elastic than all the others too and removes very easily one piece. It will not necessarily adhere to sealed blades any better than other water based glues though. A problem I experienced with this glue is that it will solidify in the tube if stored in a relatively cold climate (NYC apartment in the winter for example). Another problem is that because it is so thick, you must use as thin of layers as possible especially if you use max rubbers or boost, otherwise your racket will fail the thickness test at major tournaments. Stiga Attach Power Rebranded Nittaku Finezip, may be cheaper in some countries. I believe it is supposed to be the exact same glue, but I've found some tubes that had thicker glue than finezip. This is the one Xu Xin was technically using in his Stiga video, look closely - it wasn't finezip. Tearmender I do not use TM anymore for actually gluing rubbers to rackets - rather I keep a tube of it handy to remove other glues and RC that don't come off easily. Two layers on the sponge on top of the existing glue build up will let you peel it all off in one go - very handy. Bond is not strong enough to handle boosted rubbers though without multiple layers. Easy to peel after 2-3 layers, best spread with a foam brush. Paddle Palace Glue Surprisingly not bad - kind of like a thinner version of TM but with a stronger bond. I remember when this first came out it was very weak, but the latest bottles I've used in a pinch I was pretty impressed by. However this glue has clumping issues and when dry it seems to shrink/shrivel a bit as well as turn brown(?)... Not sure why. Removes pretty easily with 3+ layers though, which is nice. Vario Clean This stuff was weird. I borrowed a bottle from someone to quickly glue a new sheet of tenergy at a tournament since I didn't think to bring my own glue. The stuff "dried" and stuck pretty strongly, but what was odd is that it didn't solidify like any other wbg. Instead, it became a sticky film similar to RC that wasn't completely dry, but it stayed that way. The rubber shrunk on my blade over time from rolling it on in the first place because the adhesive didn't solidify into a latex layer like other glues, and when I took it off it was a mess. There was no way to really peel the glue off and I had to sand my blade to get rid of the residue. You could even stick the rubber to another blade without glue because the buildup was so sticky. I feel like this would be only thing that could work with sealed blades because it behaves like VOC glue without the VOC. Stiga Optimizer Glue Complete garbage. Smells terrible, bond is weak, watery, clumps easily, and is a pain to remove. The brush included in the cap was extremely coarse and makes absolutely no sense for applying glue. ------------- http://bit.ly/1clQmfp" rel="nofollow - Feedback | http://bit.ly/1rcjTiH" rel="nofollow - FOR SALE - updated Mar 19 Dynasty / H3 / H3 |
Posted By: haggisv
Date Posted: 04/07/2015 at 10:48pm
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schen: Your comments on the Vario clean seem to indicate that it might have reacted with something, either something already on the blade or on the rubber. Removal from the blade is generally dead easy, removal from the rubber can be hard if it's been on there for a long time. The Vario Clean is similar to many other glues, including the Butterfly one which is just somewhat thicker and stronger (making it harder spread and remove). I'm sure many are made in the same factory. ------------- Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX http://tabletennisshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=42" rel="nofollow - Tenergy Alternatives | http://tabletennis-reviews.com" rel="nofollow - My TT Articles |
Posted By: schen
Date Posted: 04/08/2015 at 1:35am
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It wasn't my bottle of glue so perhaps the guy i borrowed it from had mixed it with something. There was nothing on the new sheet of tenergy or my blade (unsealed and only used with wbg) it could've reacted to ------------- http://bit.ly/1clQmfp" rel="nofollow - Feedback | http://bit.ly/1rcjTiH" rel="nofollow - FOR SALE - updated Mar 19 Dynasty / H3 / H3 |
Posted By: NextLevel
Date Posted: 04/08/2015 at 8:07am
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My VarioClean is sticky, but I find it easy to remove from blades, Steve. Rubbers, not as easily, but if the layer is thick on the rubber, it comes off much more easily. ------------- https://youtu.be/jhO4K_yFhh8?t=115" rel="nofollow - I like putting heavy topspin on the ball... Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
Posted By: ahsq
Date Posted: 06/15/2015 at 4:26pm
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can someone please advise the proper way to use Tear Mender on a lacquer blade with soft porous sponge?? ------------- FS: Xiom Vega Pro ST 85 grams $80 shipped Donic Waldner Senso Carbo JO shaped ST $40 shipped |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 06/15/2015 at 6:10pm
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wturber has posted a lot on this, he examined many methods of using Tearmender. here are two of his posts, you may have to go back earlier to find more, but I think his most detailed description of the best way to use it is on OOAK forum. http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42988&KW=tearmender&PID=534119&title=glue-alternatives#534119 http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45690&PID=567640&title=glue-comparison#567640 |
Posted By: mhnh007
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 8:49am
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I use Tear Mender for a couple of years now. It's easy to clean up (I re-glue often), and it's fairly cheap, but not any more though, unless you live in US. I order Tear Mender through Amazon Canada, and currently it is quite expensive. I am trying to find some alternative now that is easier to get. Anyone has any suggestive? Has anyone used Speed-sew, which is also a fabric latex glue as well? |
Posted By: Tassie52
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 9:18am
| Am I the only person in the world using Xiom I-Bond? I find it easy to use: the sponge applicator does the job, there's enough in a small bottle for a dozen rubbers, it holds well but not too well. |
Posted By: haggisv
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 9:52am
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Nothing wrong with the Xiom I-Bond glue...I use this for pimples in OX. It's stronger than most glues and spreads very thin (both vital properties for OX rubbers). I find it's harder to get off the blade, and you'd be well advised to seal the blade. Most glues work just fine, although some take a little more to get used to than others. ------------- Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX http://tabletennisshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=42" rel="nofollow - Tenergy Alternatives | http://tabletennis-reviews.com" rel="nofollow - My TT Articles |
Posted By: kevo
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 10:11am
| Joola Lex glue is pretty good. Dries quickly, good bond and comes off with little trouble. I am worried about bloody water based glue warping or changing the wood on my precious OSP Immune OX blade, however. I'd love to get a hold of some Tearmender but they don't sell it in Ireland! |
Posted By: assam
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 11:21am
| I use copydex and never had any trouble |
Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 11:51am
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For the guys who have ordered tearmender from walmart. Have you ever had it lump up on you, inside the bottle, when you received it? I bought from ebay in the past. Orderd and received my second one last week. This was the new bottle of tearmender with a straw and etc. Totally clumped up. Only getting a yellow liquid coming out of it. No adhesive at all. Im Trying to establish a good source for it. ------------- "I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
Posted By: hidasjoki
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 2:47pm
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I use Revo #3 glue on my blades and usually either xiom I-bond or Butterfly free chack on the rubber. The revo #3 is gentle on the wood and the stronger more adhesive glue on the rubber creates a better bond than just using Revo on both blade and rubber. ------------- <3 |
Posted By: Gtbana1
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 3:06pm
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Revo #3, two coats on blade and three on rubber. I use the 'Clicky press' for a few hours and I'm ready to go. Removing the glue is the best part, it comes off in one piece on both blade and rubber with no residue. ------------- BTY Viscaria, T05,V>401 BTY Innerforce, T05, T64 |
Posted By: ahsq
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 3:10pm
try buy it on amazon. ------------- FS: Xiom Vega Pro ST 85 grams $80 shipped Donic Waldner Senso Carbo JO shaped ST $40 shipped |
Posted By: igorponger
Date Posted: 06/18/2015 at 11:34pm
WE always use this stuff to our entire satisfaction. http://www.spirithalloween.com/product/pint-of-liquid-latex/97.uts?keyword=%20liquid%20latex&thumbnailIndex=2" rel="nofollow - http://www.spirithalloween.com/product/pint-of-liquid-latex/97.uts?keyword= liquid latex&thumbnailIndex=2 |
Posted By: zhan2133
Date Posted: 06/20/2015 at 10:36pm
That's my first glue. It has strong bond, maybe too strong. I had blister in my hand when trying to remove glue on my blade for an hour... Never went back.
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Posted By: wankhao
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 1:49am
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LV short for $900? |
Posted By: crackfst
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 2:19am
this is a good speedglue. And the great thing is, it is way cheaper and lasts longer than most WBGs. Also if you just do one layer and let it dry very nicely, it doesnt bother tensioned rubbers at all. I dont think a bit of solvent can do that, if you howewer speedglue the hell out of your rubber with tons of layers, maybe even glue wet, thats probably harmful for tensioned rubbers I also doubt that it could be detected after a week if you let it dry enough before gluing(and there would be zero competitive advantage or solvent related health risks anyways then)
------------- Darker Speed 90 Jpen Tenergy 64 |
Posted By: igszoctan
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 12:47pm
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As far as Nittaku Finezip concerned I hate it. It is too thick, dries fast and I cannot simply apply it evenly on the surface :-( Furthermore. it is expensive too. However, Revolution 3 is great :-) Easy removal, nice flat layers. Child's play to deal with. ------------- igszoctan Fh: Rasant PowerGrip (2.1) Blades: Appelgren Allplay Bh: Rasant Powersponge(1.9) Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=66928&PID=807706 Strength and honour |
Posted By: igorponger
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 3:08pm
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LATEX MILK (ditto Revolution3 glue) --THE BEST PING PANG GLUE. Chemical pundits did found out what liquid ingredients the REVOLUTION 3 GLUE is made of. The one and only ingredient is n a t u r a l l a t e x m i l k which extracted largely from Heveia tree Malaisian plantation. USA cheapest suppliers of the latex milk : http://www.spirithalloween.com/product/pint-of-liquid-latex/97.uts?keyword=latex&thumbnailIndex=3#productDetailTabs2" rel="nofollow - http://www.spirithalloween.com/product/pint-of-liquid-latex/97.uts?keyword=latex&thumbnailIndex=3#productDetailTabs2 http://www.liquidlatexstore.com/clear-liquid-latex-face-body-paint-16-oz.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.liquidlatexstore.com/clear-liquid-latex-face-body-paint-16-oz.html |
Posted By: igorponger
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 3:18pm
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LATEX MILK (ditto Revolution3 glue) --THE BEST PING PANG GLUE. Chemical pundits did found out what liquid ingredients the REVOLUTION 3 GLUE is made of. The one and only ingredient is n a t u r a l__l a t e x__m i l k which extracted largely from Heveia tree all over Malaisian forest. USA cheapest suppliers of the latex milk : http://www.spirithalloween.com/product/pint-of-liquid-latex/97.uts?keyword=latex&thumbnailIndex=3#productDetailTabs2" rel="nofollow - http://www.spirithalloween.com/product/pint-of-liquid-latex/97.uts?keyword=latex&thumbnailIndex=3#productDetailTabs2 http://www.liquidlatexstore.com/clear-liquid-latex-face-body-paint-16-oz.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.liquidlatexstore.com/clear-liquid-latex-face-body-paint-16-oz.html |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 3:35pm
Why so many layers? Isn't one layer on blade and two on rubbers good enough? |
Posted By: JacekGM
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 7:32pm
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Butterfly now makes Free Chack II for gluing the Tenergy series. I bought some to try, the bond is very good, the removal works okay. ------------- (1) Juic SBA (Fl, 85 g) with Bluefire JP3 (red max) on FH and 0.6 mm DR N Desperado on BH; (2) Yinhe T7 (Fl, 87 g) with Bluefire M3 (red 2.0) on FH and 0.6 mm 755 on BH. |
Posted By: MLfan
Date Posted: 07/04/2015 at 11:08pm
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How's Revolution no. 3 compared to finezip? I've been using finezip for so long I can't remember how the other glues play like... how many layers do you need for revolution?
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Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 3:18pm
I have just glued rubbers on a brand new blade for the first time with Finezip. The glue dried damn fast, literally in seconds, I couldn't even apply the sponge on the blade without having the glue dry up on me and creating lumps (the ones when you try to remove dried glue). I had to remove the glue three times on each side before I was able to spread the glue evenly and accurately as I desired. I couldn't dare to apply a second on the blade or the rubbers from the fear of lumping the previous layer. Maybe this was due to my blade being sealed? But strangely never had such a problem with Butterfly Free Chak, which is so easy to apply and doesn't clump or dry so damn fast. And after using the blade for about 1 week, the rubbers have seemed to come off from the top edges, indicating not strong bond or not adequate spread of glue. Anybody experience this and any ideas how to fix this problem? |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 4:58pm
Yes, pretty good glue. |
Posted By: skip3119
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 8:20pm
====================================== After switching from rubber cement to Tearmender 3 or 4 years ago, I have been happy with it . It is cheap, one bottle will last for 3 years or so. I bought it from Walmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tear-Mender-Fabric-Leather-Adhesive-6-oz/17338063" rel="nofollow - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tear-Mender-Fabric-Leather-Adhesive-6-oz/17338063
------------- skip3119 |
Posted By: wturber
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 9:27pm
These days I buy the 6oz (think - next to the smallest size) bottle at Ace Hardware for about $7-8. I originally started using and promoting Tear Mender because so many of the first water based glues were silly expensive and that really ticked me off. I went searching for a water-based equivalent to generic rubber cement and TearMender and CopyDex were what I found. I actually found CopyDex first, but couldn't find a reasonable way to get it to the U.S. My continued search led me to TearMender. I still used it mostly because it is easy to glue Dr. Evil with it. If I use a rubber with a cloth back, I'd probably switch to rubber cement. Nowadays there are many options that are equally reasonable in price. So if Tear Mender is expensive in your area, then I'd suggest switching to something else. If CopyDex is available in Canada, then you might try that. Everything I've read suggests that it is very similar to Tear Mender. CopyDex is common in Great Britain and perhaps parts of Europe. ------------- Jay Turberville www.jayandwanda.com Hardbat: Nittaku Resist w/ Dr. Evil or Friendship 802-40 OX |
Posted By: skip3119
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 10:54pm
========================== I have had no problems with the tearmendor that I bought from Walmart. 3 or 4 years ago I bought one bottle, recently I bought another bottle - no problem at all. Delivered right to my house. ------------- skip3119 |
Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 11:19pm
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thank you both ^^ Yeah I ended up buying from walmart too ( I think, or amazon, i gotta check tbh). It has stayed very well. I actually take a precaution and after putting some on sponge, i close it and then put the whole bottle inside a ziplock bag haha. It might sound stupid but my last one jammed up inside after about was it 8-9 months. ------------- "I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 11:20pm
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as a matter of fact I glued my first domed tg3 neo with it. it was half way domed, closer to a V than a U. I think I barely made the thickness limit with 3 on 2.15 sponge and 2 on blade :X ------------- "I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
Posted By: slevin
Date Posted: 10/17/2015 at 11:33pm
I buy the big bottle from Amazon. Never had an issue with it becoming lumpy. ------------- Trade feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787 |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 4:00am
Any insight guys? The rubbers are Adidas P7 and Rakza 7 Soft. |
Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 6:10am
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I know with tearmender , it dries in about 1 minute ish. The second layer is actually easier than you think. It doesnt penetrate the first layer so quick , so you have more time to work. If you have a plastic old debit or credit card, it works best for spreading. Work quick. Start from bottom. Pour. Close. Spread You dont have to get every mm of the sponge. But try to get an even coat. Wait till its dry to touch. Im guessing the dry time would be pretty similar. Around 4 minutes. Then second layer on sponge. Again. From bottom up. I do this for both cut and uncut rubbers. Btw clean the glue from the credit card after each layer. Or else it will dry and stick to the sponge. That does cause lunps. Same story with blade. One layer is adequate. Theres a video by wturber for gluing with tear mender. Maybe you can get an idea of finezip from there. Or perhaps lok for a finezip application video. |
Posted By: nv42
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 2:33pm
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Usually when I get a brand new pack of water based glue, it usually doesn't dry too quick. Bought a donic vario clean once which looked like it was old stock, which useta dry after I just make 2 passes with the sponge(too Damn quick) , and another one which let me easily make 5-6 passes before it dries. ------------- 1.dhs pg2 fl -FH t05h (max) -BH tibhar genius (max) |
Posted By: igorponger
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 3:18pm
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COMBO GLUING IS THE BEST. http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=72748&PID=891611&title=combo-gluing-is-the-best-happy#891611" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=72748&PID=891611&title=combo-gluing-is-the-best-happy#891611 |
Posted By: ThePongProfessor
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 9:55pm
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I have tried the combo glue approach and am not impressed. The paddle palace glue seems to do the trick. And rubber cement is a pain to work with (You have to apply it on one-third of the blade at a time otherwise it dries up before your eyes. I am to try diluting it with some hexane, heptane or pertroleum ether. ------------- YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ThePongProfessor http://mytabletennis.net/forum/feedback-thepongprofessor_topic69419.html" rel="nofollow - Feedback |
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 10:28pm
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I recently bought Nittaku Finezip glue and tried it for the first time. First I put one layer on MXP sponge and since the glue is pretty thick it didn't spread evenly. It took a while to dry, I would say 10-15 minutes for it to become almost clear. I had to do 2 more layers to get a thicker coating because I was afraid it would not stick properly onto the blade. Had to use a blow-dryer for it to dry completely. On the blade, I used only 1 layer and it dried within 2 minutes. Really fast. I didn't like how it spread so I peeled it off and that was pretty easy. Did a new layer with no problems. I don't think I'm a big fan of thick glues though. I feel like for porous sponges a thinner more watery WB glue will spread more evenly and fill in pores better. Coming from Free Chack, this glue wasn't as good as I thought it would be. Edges weren't bonded as strong as with free chack. I haven't changed this rubber yet but I don't think ill have problems taking it off since Finezip is known for that. I guess there is always a trade off for strong adhesion and bad peel off, or weak adhesion and easy peel off. Did anyone else have this experience with porous sponge rubbers and finezip? From all the videos I've watched where Finezip was used, all rubbers had a regular non-porous sponge, so I'm thinking maybe thicker glues are better for non-porous sponge and thinner glue for porous?... Just thinking. I've used Free Chack with Tenergy and had a really good bond and even spread with just one layer. Considering MXP is even more porous than tenergy, I think I might need to find another watery/thinner WBG.
------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 10:37pm
Hey, sorta like my experience. ^ ------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 10:48pm
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I didn't find Finezip easy to use. These days I am using Butterfly Free Chack II. It gives good results for me. |
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/18/2015 at 10:50pm
Is it a thin glue? from what I read FC II suppose to be thicker than FC. ------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 7:51am
Yes exactly like my experience, my rubbers were Adidas P7 and Yasaka Rakza 7 soft, the Adidas rubber had a weak bond near the edges as the rubber is coming off now  |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 7:57am
It is fairly thin, actually, perhaps a little thicker than FC, but not a great deal more. Definitely less viscous than Finezip. Comes in a bottle, whereas Finezip comes in a tube. The bottle is designed so the FCII comes out in little drops so you don't inadvertently make a mess. I then use foam paint brushes to get even spreading (with wooden handles, you can buy them at Home Depot or Amazon). I like it because it spreads very evenly, and the rate it dries is not too fast (so you get very even layers) and not too slow (so it doesn't take forever). I used two layers on the blade and one on the sponge. Very good adhesion even along edges, and comes away from the blade without taking chunks of wood. Rubber is very flat after gluing. I like it better than Revolution 3 because I don't want to use so many coats of glue as they recommend for Rev 3 (and I don't buy into the idea that the multiple coats of Rev3 improves play performance). I like it better than Finezip because it spreads more evenly without drying and like some other people, with Finezip the adhesion around edges of blade was not quite perfect. I like it better than the DOnic Blue Contact because it is less likely to damage the blade surface when removing rubbers. |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 7:58am
Exactly, I'm not liking finezip either but since I've spent quite a lot on it I'll have to finish it. Would you say Free Chack II is better or worse than Free Chack 1??? Is it not specifically for Tenergy rubbers? |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 8:01am
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I think FC II is better than FC because I get a more even layer of glue. I use Tenergy rubbers. I was not aware that FC II was made specifically for Tenergy. If it is, well all I can say is they definitely got it right. It ought to work just as well for other thick pored rubbers, like Evolution, etc. |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 2:24pm
Since you've experienced playing with different glues, do you think any of these WBG glues improve the playing characteristics of the rubbers? I've also heard rumors that applying multiple layers of finezip on the sponge, make the rubbers faster/spinnier, but I am not at a high level to see such difference. What's your say? |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 2:26pm
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Also I'd like to know that, if I've used Finezip on the rubbers, is it a bad idea to reglue the rubbers with a different glue now on the same blade, let's say with Free Chack??? |
Posted By: lineup32
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 3:22pm
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A few months ago I started using a glue sheet and today I moved the original set of rubbers to another blade that I use on my robot. I was surprised to see that sponges on both sides of my playing blade appeared new it would have been difficult to visual guess the difference between new and used on the sponge side other then the used one's were cut. My only take on it was that glues do impact the sponge whether they impact the life of the sponge I have no idea. |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 3:43pm
| In my opinion WBG is just for sticking the rubber to the blade. I haven't noticed that one glue results in overwhelmingly better playing properties than another (although I do notice differences in sticking around the outer margins of the blade and how flat the topsheet looks after gluing). I do notice it takes about 3 days before I like the feel but that seems to be true for all of them. Revolution claims that it adds something to the way the rubber plays. I really couldn't feel anything like that throughout the one bottle of the stuff that I had. If it has any effect, it is subtle. One good thing about Revolution is that it really comes very clean off the sponge, so if you reglue rubbers or switch rubbers from one blade to another, it is a good choice. I don't generally do that, and you really do need to do multiple layers as they recommend. I am just too impatient for that. That also means I can't really advise you on whether you can try some other glue after initially gluing with Finezip. I've never tried it (but I would personally be surprised if it matters). |
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 4:39pm
Which glue sheet did you try? I've read few good reviews on the Tibhar Duo glue sheet. ------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: lineup32
Date Posted: 10/19/2015 at 7:49pm
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used Nori Plus |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 10/20/2015 at 3:36pm
So this is what I did last night. Removed the rubber from the blade, came off easily and was surprised to see no glue residue on the blade at all. There was glue on the sponge but it was not THAT sticky, strange. Removed the glue from the top half of the rubber first (as I was lazy and didn't want to remove it all) from where the rubber had started to come off the blade. Some small chunks of the sponge did come off with the glue and left small holes in the sponge. Re-applied one coat of Finzezip on the blade and two coats on the rubber, after drying for 5-10 mins attached the rubber back on the blade. And boy was I wrong to do this, could see two different layers on the face of the rubber due to different thickness of glue layers. Removed rubber from blade, this time the glue came of fairly easily and quickly in one go from the sponge without ripping off the sponge, applied one layer and let it dry and applied another and let it dry, then stuck the rubber back. Voila, played perfectly today :P Although finezip is hard to apply and it dries way too fast, I liked how I could take it off from the sponge and blade without leaving a residue and no apparent deformation of the sponge at all as the glue didn't seep into ht sponge at all. Just make sure you have two layers on the sponge otherwise it will rip small bits from the sponge when you remove it. |
Posted By: haggisv
Date Posted: 10/20/2015 at 8:07pm
Good in what way? Do you remember where you saw the review? ------------- Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX http://tabletennisshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=42" rel="nofollow - Tenergy Alternatives | http://tabletennis-reviews.com" rel="nofollow - My TT Articles |
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/20/2015 at 8:42pm
TT11 from ruskis. Says its the best one that they tried from TT11 selection of glue sheets. http://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/tibhar-self-adhesive-film-duo ------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: JacekGM
Date Posted: 10/20/2015 at 8:43pm
+1 When I first mentioned Free Chack II on this thread, I forgot to say that one nice feature they offer is you can buy it in really small tubes (less than $5 per tube) that are just enough to glue one or two rackets, depending how thin you apply the glue. Yes it comes out conveniently in small droplets, and yes, I too use small foam paint brushes to spread it. Amazing, I thought I was the only one spending $0.40 per brush to avoid the clumsy clamps and sponges. ------------- (1) Juic SBA (Fl, 85 g) with Bluefire JP3 (red max) on FH and 0.6 mm DR N Desperado on BH; (2) Yinhe T7 (Fl, 87 g) with Bluefire M3 (red 2.0) on FH and 0.6 mm 755 on BH. |
Posted By: JacekGM
Date Posted: 10/20/2015 at 8:47pm
I wonder, would it make sense to dilute it with 2-Me-THF...  ------------- (1) Juic SBA (Fl, 85 g) with Bluefire JP3 (red max) on FH and 0.6 mm DR N Desperado on BH; (2) Yinhe T7 (Fl, 87 g) with Bluefire M3 (red 2.0) on FH and 0.6 mm 755 on BH. |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/20/2015 at 9:11pm
| A little history. The earliest speed glues had halogenated solvents. ITTF banned those earlier because thet are dangerous. Later speed glues, not WBG, were pretty safe. ITTF sad it was a safety issue when they banned those also, but there was no data to support that. Same excuse they used for boosters. |
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/21/2015 at 9:17pm
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Can anyone that tried Glue Sheets list pros and cons of them? Please mention the brand you tried. I'm interested in trying them for my next change of rubbers. Thanks! ------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: lineup32
Date Posted: 10/21/2015 at 10:13pm
| I tried glue sheet's since Charlie Smith at BBC was using them but he doesn't use any of the conventional glue sheets associated with TT mostly due to cost issues. I use Nori and like the flat lay of the rubber, messing with glue's spreading it, waiting for it to dry and getting a bubble now and then. It took me a few sheets to get the feeling for how to use the Nori and in what order but once you understand the process it goes quickly. I use hair spray before applying the Nori since I don't seal my blades. I am careful when I do take rubber off the blade as well as the glue sheet that is still on the blade. Keeping the sheets in a plastic container away from heat is probably a good idea. |
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/21/2015 at 10:26pm
Are glue sheets in general a form of a big double sided scotch tape or is it like a "peelable" glue layer that is somewhat squishy (kinda like the glue layer on old bw2s)? Do you notice a difference in play between traditional WBG and glue sheets? Also many recommend Glue sheets for OX rubbers. I use MXP both sides and planning on sticking with it. I'm not concerned too much in ripping off sponge but more with splinting the blade when removing old rubbers.
------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: lineup32
Date Posted: 10/22/2015 at 12:09am
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like Double Sided Scotch tape. What I noticed immediately was how flat the rubber felt with Nori with no issues like bubbles or areas of the rubber coming loose and needing re-glue. My guess is soft wet glue does impacts the sponge and how it plays depending on the glue. Also given the cost basis of most new rubbers keeping the sponge in pristine condition with a glue sheet seems to be a better choice unless one uses various additives anyway.
|
Posted By: DreiZ
Date Posted: 10/22/2015 at 7:25am
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Thanks lineup32, I'll try it on my next set of rubbers. ------------- Main: Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
Posted By: Jouncsen
Date Posted: 08/03/2018 at 2:46am
| Should I go with FCII, DHS No.15 or REvolution 3? |
Posted By: Kolev
Date Posted: 08/03/2018 at 3:21am
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The only glue I won't buy again is the DHS15. Horrible, although it could be the batch. Will never know ------------- Hallmark Carbon Extreme (x3) FH: D05/G1/RX BH: Z2/D64/Ω7Pro |
Posted By: lineup32
Date Posted: 08/03/2018 at 12:27pm
| Been using Paddle Palace EZ PRO Glue, apply one coat and let it set for about 1/2 hr works great. |
Posted By: igorponger
Date Posted: 12/21/2020 at 8:35am
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WOW !! You will be a happy guy by adding a whit of starch powder to the bottle. You get a nice smooth white paste easy to spread over., much like STIGA Super Condensed glue. Starch powder works wonders, indeed. |