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Fixing edges of a blade with wood filler?

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Topic: Fixing edges of a blade with wood filler?
Posted By: Simon_plays
Subject: Fixing edges of a blade with wood filler?
Date Posted: 04/05/2019 at 11:44am
Hi everyone, 

When antique blades are sold online and marked as 'professionally repaired', often these have white marks on them, as if the professional simply smeared the wood filler and sanded it after. 

I've got an old TBS blade that is slowly starting to show wear and tear and before I put new rubbers and edge tape on I would like to try and fix the scuffs around the edges. 

From online research I have deduced that I could simply smear wood filler over the damaged sections and then sand it down? Now, I am somewhat inexperienced with even the most basic woodworking and can't help but imagine that this might go horribly wrong and change the weight, balance and feel of the blade.

And is there a specific wood filler and type of sandpaper that I should get if I go ahead and give the repairs a go?






Replies:
Posted By: Slightly-D
Date Posted: 04/05/2019 at 7:16pm
I'm pretty sure that wood filler will work when you "fill" in gap/hole with boundary to contain it within the target area. Fixing splintered edges is another ball game though. I have some success fixing my edges by gluing the broken pieces back in place. That, of course, won't work if your pieces were no longer around.
All is not lost though, I remember quite awhile back this guy showing his blade with edges fixed up with epoxy.  In those pictures the patch job looked nice and good.


Posted By: ericd937
Date Posted: 04/05/2019 at 7:30pm
Following. My TBS looks like yours, but only mine is about 10 times worse. 

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Current Setup: TBS FH T80/BH D80
Official USATT Rating 1815
Current estimated level: 1800-1900.


Posted By: Kolev
Date Posted: 04/05/2019 at 8:18pm
I regularly repair my blades with  color matched wood filler.  Its  simple if one has a little patience. With a flexible and  small putty knife  put a  little amount and give it  few minutes to dry and then apply the next layer. Don't build up a bulge and don' t spread too much material around the spot you treat. Wait for the filler to dry and use a fine sandpaper wrapped around piece of wood to polish. Finally I use varnish to seal the spot

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Hallmark Carbon Extreme (x3)
FH: D05/G1/RX
BH: Z2/D64/Ω7Pro


Posted By: hleett
Date Posted: 04/05/2019 at 8:24pm
Originally posted by Simon_plays Simon_plays wrote:

Hi everyone, .....
And is there a specific wood filler and type of sandpaper that I should get if I go ahead and give the repairs a go?



I'd use fine wood dust mixed with wood glue into a paste. Put a tiny drop of glue into the scuff, even it out and let it sit for a few seconds. Smear the mixture into the scuffed areas with a putty knife, build it up a little at a time to achieve the same level as the blade surface. You may want to let the first smear dry before putting on a second smear. Sand off the excess with a 220 grit sandpaper. 


Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 04/05/2019 at 9:24pm
When I bought my OSP blades, they were nice enough to include a section of veneers for patch work. you can literally cut out the damaged area and replace it with a strip of outer ply veneer using elmer's wood glue. much better that wood filler and sawdust.

you might ask BTY if they can supply you with a small patch for a similar purpose?


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http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42


Posted By: jpenmaster
Date Posted: 04/05/2019 at 11:20pm
I'm no professional but here is how I repair dings no wood filler just veneer


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OSP Expert II w DNA Dragon Grip


Posted By: Simon_plays
Date Posted: 04/06/2019 at 2:50am
Thanks a lot for all the replies. 

I think I'll try the fine wood shavings mixed with wood glue route, but will do a practice run on a blade to which I'm less emotionally attached. 

Btw Eric, I reckon Saigon is definitely the type of place where you can find someone who knows how to properly fix a blade. Try the shop on Turtle Lake in D1, I ought to be able to help.


Posted By: vanjr
Date Posted: 04/06/2019 at 8:08am
Why repair those edges outside of cosmetic effect? They do not affect playability.


Posted By: hleett
Date Posted: 04/06/2019 at 10:33am
Originally posted by jpenmaster jpenmaster wrote:

I'm no professional but here is how I repair dings no wood filler just veneer
Hey Ryan, you are the best.


Posted By: Simon_plays
Date Posted: 04/06/2019 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by vanjr vanjr wrote:

Why repair those edges outside of cosmetic effect? They do not affect playability.
Because it keeps deteriorating slowly and hopefully if I manage to plug the gaps it'll keep in the current condition for longer.


Posted By: cktenders
Date Posted: 04/07/2019 at 5:53pm
I'm in the same situation. Is there anyone who makes blades that offers repair services? I emailed Charlie of Blades by Charlie, but no response. Not sure I'm up to the task to try it myself. 


Posted By: hleett
Date Posted: 04/07/2019 at 8:35pm
Me too couldn't get a reply from Charlie. I think jpenmaster might be able to repair blades for a fee. Right, Ryan?


Posted By: jpenmaster
Date Posted: 04/07/2019 at 9:03pm
I can fix some stuff. Depends on how bad it is.

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OSP Expert II w DNA Dragon Grip


Posted By: Simon_plays
Date Posted: 04/08/2019 at 2:28am
Originally posted by jpenmaster jpenmaster wrote:

I can fix some stuff. Depends on how bad it is.
Shocked

I wonder if a mail order blade fixing service is viable? For some people the cost would definitely be worth it if the blade is an old favourite with sentimental value. 

Could potentially be an interesting business idea. But then I think that the entire world is as ping pong enthusiastic as myself.


Posted By: Simas
Date Posted: 04/12/2019 at 7:41am


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Stiga Offensive Classic Legend
DHS Hurricane Neo3
Donic Bluefire JP01 Turbo


Posted By: jpenmaster
Date Posted: 04/18/2019 at 7:03pm
Viscaria repair




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OSP Expert II w DNA Dragon Grip


Posted By: wturber
Date Posted: 04/18/2019 at 8:09pm
I'm no expert, but I repair damaged edges using fine wood sawdust mixed in with epoxy.  The mixture is dominated by sawdust and is very paste-like.  I overfill the repair area a bit, cover with wax paper, and then clamp between two pieces of veneer (flat and smooth) plywood.  After curing, I carefully sand to level. 

The main advantage is that the epoxy does not shrink when curing.  Wood glue will.   It is also possible that the epoxy is tougher, but I'm not sure about that.
The OSP veneer repair is obviously the best approach if you have the right veneer and if the damage is limited to the top veneer layer.  But if the damage is deeper, I assume you need to fill that.

This is an example of that kind of repair applied to a part of a waterbed.
https://youtu.be/VX3yAgzrDVA?t=3152" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/VX3yAgzrDVA?t=3152

-------------
Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
Hardbat: Nittaku Resist w/ Dr. Evil or Friendship 802-40 OX


Posted By: wturber
Date Posted: 04/18/2019 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by Simon_plays Simon_plays wrote:

Originally posted by jpenmaster jpenmaster wrote:

I can fix some stuff. Depends on how bad it is.
Shocked

I wonder if a mail order blade fixing service is viable? For some people the cost would definitely be worth it if the blade is an old favourite with sentimental value. 

Could potentially be an interesting business idea. But then I think that the entire world is as ping pong enthusiastic as myself.


I think it is the kind of thing you do if you enjoy it.  I doubt it would make much sense economically.  Most of my blade repairing has been for others and I did it just for fun mostly.



-------------
Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
Hardbat: Nittaku Resist w/ Dr. Evil or Friendship 802-40 OX


Posted By: Simas
Date Posted: 04/19/2019 at 1:45am
Originally posted by jpenmaster jpenmaster wrote:

Viscaria repair



that's very nice. Did you do it yourself?


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Stiga Offensive Classic Legend
DHS Hurricane Neo3
Donic Bluefire JP01 Turbo



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