I would think so.  But a number of comments on different threads talk of boosting everything-including tenergy or ESN. If boosting were legal I would just reglue a sheet of 729 SST pro the day before I played and I could be perfectly happy.

Only chinese rubbers

Experimented with it, and did not find any advantages at all.

I know a dude that boost his T05 and bounce like Hell

1 medium layer or 2 thin is fine, unless you're a semi pro+

vik2000 wrote: For those folks boosting H3, how long is your overall process? I'm boosting an H3 (provincial blue sponge at 40 degree) for the first time and after applying the 3rd layer (24 hrs wait between each layer), the rubber is very domed. It's been like 2 days since the 3rd layer and it's still pretty curled up...

I boost my 42 degrees H3 origin one time with my own making booster, leave it 1 week for stabling consistency. I re-boost after a month.

I heard a theory that modern rubbers are so boostes that no booster can make them faster

lolol can't tell if you're joking ;)

Lol but any has tried?

Does he win all the time?

Like 70%

maybe he would win 75% if he didn't boost

Yep he wins 70% with 6 layers of dandoy booster. He said he would quit tt if booster is banned

That makes sense. If one is used to super fast rubbers there might be a little bit weak technique there. 

not quite. That guy would need a great timing and technique to control that super fast and spin sensitive T05 (with 6 layers of booster)

nearly all rubbers are fine out of the packet including Chinese

Not most Chinese rubbers at a high enough level

I feel like tt forums have huge echo chambers either for or against booster, but the facts remain

Just think how people can control a brick like zjk szlc makes you think that training does everything

All rubbers are quite fine.  Booster just makes the sponge more compressible in the right way, but you could play quite well without booster.  Once you are used to edge and the ease of spin, you want it, but it doesn't mean you can't play 95% of the same way without it.

How long more should I wait or it's ok to glue curled? Will DHS glue No15 hold?

P.S. I absolutely love, can control and shoot difficult balls with not boosted commercial H3. Don't even know what to expect from that one

Thanks

It is not that easy. If you remember that your boosting job will last more than a month then you can be patient and leave your blade under books for a whole night: keep in mind that often, bad boosting stories are linked to precipitation. It's a game of wait. In your case, you are waiting too long (joke). I sense some shyness so let me say it again: "GO FOR IT NOW!" . 

I am curious about your results, please share without being afraid to be on the spot, your experience as a newbie is very interesting because you played successfully the rubber without booster, you are going through the boosting process that is new to you and you are comfortable on the forum so all you can share is very valuable as a tt process live experiment.

I can't wait for your comparisons, what you win and what you loose adding the booster factor.

After a month, my FH rubber needs some new "vitamines"

"GO FOR IT NOW!"

It was unusual to glue curled rubber. I applied my normal routine, but this time used a little more glue (at least I thought so) - layer of glue on the blade, another layer on the rubber. Hair drier. Once glue is transparent - stick. Put blade on the table new rubber facing down, cover with book and put very heavy tools box on top. If I am not planning to play the same day then I keep the whole thing like that until next morning, but today is Sat so I kept it for 2 hours or so, then cut rubber. When scissors were gliding the edge I noticed that exact place where scissors just made a cut the edge of the sponge is separating from the blade, like less than 1 mm. The reason for this is that my blade edge is sealed, so DHS No15 glue is not strong enough. It held fine until scissors rubbed the edge.

After cutting the rubber I checked if that defect is deep into blade or only on the edge. Looked like it was just for a few mm on the edge. I glued that edge back to the blade and covered with edge tape.

Setup is: 

http://mytabletennis.net/Forum/fs-yinhe-galaxy-5-ply-all-kiso-hinoki_topic86137.html" rel="nofollow - this 5 ply wood blade  

FH - black not boosted H3 2.15mm, H38 

BH - red just "boosted" H3 2.15mm, hardness - used to be H39, now feels similarly soft as H38.

Setup ended up weighting 183g, having very light blade the whole thing became head heavy which I personally like.

When bouncing a ball on the racket I was very surprised how bouncy red rubber is. Actually not LOL. It's a joke. Well ... we are dealing with new sheet of H3, right? Obviously ball does not bounce. It sticks to rubber and travels up and down with the blade just sitting on it's surface heh :)

During game I clearly noticed that both rubbers play differently. Normally I don't expect anything from the new H3 until sheet breaks in. It takes no less than 8-10 hours. The first surprise is that it is kind of playable already. I am BH dominant player, so I test any new thing on BH first.

The behaviour of that red boosted sheet is a bit strange. For most of the time it plays just as regular H3. But then all of the sudden I manage to return difficult balls which wasn't previously possible. 

It feels somewhat in between hard classic Chinese sponge and Chinese cake sponge. During BH attack I felt ball is going faster than usual. My technique developed around not boosted H3, I played it since I started TT (like year ago or so). So I can tell that red boosted sheet is more forgiving. It is not as easy as Xiom Omega V Asia, still requires brushing and etc. but there is more room for errors now. On backspin exchanges when every next push is more difficult due to the closing angel I actually won a few points in the situation were previously it was not possible to push back with not boosted. If not boosted then ball would hit the net. It makes me think that top sheet is more elastic now (even though I did nothing with topsheet) hence having higher throw angle?

I did not spend too long playing with it. These days I use Chinese setup only to warmup for the first 40 min or so. Basically I just won all 5 warmup matches LOL. When just driving the ball I found that H38 black is faster. But during game when more force used then red is more dynamic. I could take balls from a bit further distance. I can feel the difference but seriously that difference is not so big. I mean if that would be it then boosting was not worth it. Improvement is too small. However I need to give this setup more time to open up. Impressions after the first session are never accurate.