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SEAL THAT BLADE or else!

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tommyzai View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03/18/2019 at 6:23pm
I strongly believe that sealing a wooden blade is a MUST in most cases*, especially when . . . 

1. The top ply is fragile and/or thin like most Stiga blades.
2. You're an EJ who frequently changes rubbers.
3. Glue sheets are used.
4. You don't want this to happen . . . 

*Hinoki and a couple other woods seem to hold up without sealant, but not always. ;-)






Edited by tommyzai - 03/18/2019 at 9:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/18/2019 at 6:25pm
The only questions are . . .

1. What to use. After years of experimenting and research I have decided to use . . . 
I called AFM. They have a partnership with a distributor who sells trial size bottles that will easily seal a dozen blades. I think I paid $6+ a little shipping. I recommend the matte finish for better adhesion.

2. How much to use (how many coats and the thickness of each coat). Using an old pair of 100% cotton undies (socks usually have too much lint and/or toe-jam) . . . I typically use two light coats . . . just enough to fill the nooks and crannies, but not enough to turn my blade(s) into a lacquered coffee table, unless that's the desired effect. I try to fall just short of filling all the grains, but make sure the sealant filled the gullies. The first coat I rub into the blade, then let dry. A couple hours later (or even better to wait a whole day), I use a second coat . . . swiping towards the edges and circling the spine and outer edge, making sure there are no drips, puddles, or any other imperfections. I let dry for 48-hours before affixing.

Here's my latest blade seal job. Note: I used a third coat on the BH because it's a Stiga blade and I plan to use a glue sheet with LPs on that side. I don't mind sacrificing any "feel," which would probably be impossible to notice for 99.99% of players anyway. Years ago, myself and Hookshot from this forum and OOAK did "blind" testing on rackets. Nobody, including us, could tell which blade was sealed and which wasn't.






In short, if there are any negatives associated with sealing, I argue that the PROS heavily outweigh the CONS. Even if you're a filthy rich bastxxd, do you want to risk destroying your favorite blade?



Edited by tommyzai - 03/18/2019 at 7:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gnopgnipster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/18/2019 at 6:37pm
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

The only questions are . . .

1. What to use.
2. How much to use (how many coats and the thickness of each coat).

After years of experimenting and research I have decided to use . . . 

The Safecoat ad says very low VOC. I wonder if it's enough to set off a VOC sniffer at a tournament?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/18/2019 at 6:45pm
Originally posted by gnopgnipster gnopgnipster wrote:

Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

The only questions are . . .

1. What to use.
2. How much to use (how many coats and the thickness of each coat).

After years of experimenting and research I have decided to use . . . 

The Safecoat ad says very low VOC. I wonder if it's enough to set off a VOC sniffer at a tournament?

The VOC level of Safecoat is actually lower than the VOC levels of most (if not all) approved rubbers. If the sniffer alarm goes off, it's not the sealant. ;-) And, there is NO off-gassing after it's cured, unlike Miniwax and Varathane and others. 

If you buy, tell them Tommy Zai sent you. They won't remember at first, but eventually they'll start asking, "Who the heck is Tommy Zai?" LOL


Edited by tommyzai - 03/18/2019 at 6:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/18/2019 at 6:48pm
I use the blue painters tape to mask-off the area to be sealed. It pulls off without any damage or residue. 

PROTECT your overpriced hunks of wood!!


Edited by tommyzai - 03/18/2019 at 7:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote notfound123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/18/2019 at 7:41pm
I've been using Joola varnish ..The first bottle lasted 10 years... had to throw it away b/c the liquid became too nasty/chunky. I am on my second bottle... I usually apply a decent coat and almost immediately wipe it off with a paper towel. It works and once it fully dries you CANNOT tell any varnish was ever applied.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinykin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/19/2019 at 8:15am
Originally posted by gnopgnipster gnopgnipster wrote:

Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

The only questions are . . .

1. What to use.
2. How much to use (how many coats and the thickness of each coat).

After years of experimenting and research I have decided to use . . . 

The Safecoat ad says very low VOC. I wonder if it's enough to set off a VOC sniffer at a tournament?


Other than the major ones, are VOC detectors used in tournaments these days?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/19/2019 at 12:29pm
Originally posted by Tinykin Tinykin wrote:

Other than the major ones, are VOC detectors used in tournaments these days?

I don't know as I've never been in a major tourney, but I can tell you this . . . most of the rules we are worried about are mostly NOT enforced. They still speed-glue in clubs around the world. Having said that, I strongly recommend that everyone stop using anything with high levels of VOCs. Even Chinese rubbers now have warning statements in Chinglish saying, "Not good for you to smell or taste this rubber."

AFM sells the healthiest versions of paints, sealants, corking, etc. I'm tossing out as much plastic and harmful crap as I can. Ironically, the new poly balls are actually more toxic and harmful to the environment than the celluloid, but less flammable. 


Edited by tommyzai - 03/19/2019 at 12:30pm
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