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Question about sealing a paddle

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Imzadim View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02/07/2008 at 7:06pm
Hi everybody,

Do you always have to seal a new blade so you can change the rubbers later without damaging the wood?
Also, can anybody point me to that post where tommyzai teaches how to do this?

thanks!!!


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JimT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/07/2008 at 8:01pm
Some blades come sealed already.

Basically it's very easy - buy yourself Minwax sanding sealer or Wipe-On poly, pour a little bit on the blade, wipe it on, spread it around then slowly wipe it off... or you can wait until it hardens and then carefully sand it with a fine grain sandpaper (that's more for sanding sealer). I use Wipe-On polyurethane and it works fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imzadim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/07/2008 at 8:50pm
Ok. thanks it seems to be simple enough.

For whoever is interested, I found this link that explains in detail the process and it has a video about it:
http://tabletennis.about.com/od/blades/a/sealing_blade.htm

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 12:08am
Well there are other things you need to consider.

a) do not simply cover your blade with a lot of polyurethane and then sand bits off.

Why: because that will change the qualities of the blade - unless that's exactly what you want. If you want to keep the controlling qualities, not to make your blade more stiff - then you do not need a lot of poly/sealer. in this case simply pour half a teaspoon (or even less) of poly on your blade (one side), then spread it around, make sure some of it covers the edge, then wait a few minutes and wipe it off.

Sometimes I repeat the procedure in a few minutes, then do the same with the other side of the blade.

Some people actually dip (yes!) the blade into the can of polyurethane, then wait about 10-20 mins, take it out and let it sit like that for several hours or even full day until PU hardens. Then they sand off the excess. This basically leads to another blade, not the one you bought, because the new one becomes significantly stiffer - however some of them claim that this resulted in a better blade... could be, who knows... but some lack of control as a result of such procedure is obvious

b) do not get the poly on the handle, but you might want to cover the edges of the wings to make them smoother.

c) get good ventilation, get a few sheets of paper of smth underneath this whole thing, and once again protect your blade from accidental spills. If you do, then take some acetone and wipe the affected areas with acetone solution (perhaps several times but gently).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imzadim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 12:21am
Thanks for the tips!

One more question, can you use polycrylic for this procedure instead of polyurethane?
I happen to have it at home, sp I don't know if I need to buy the other too.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 12:30am
Frankly I have no idea. Take a piece of wood and try it on it first - see what happens. If all you get is just a thin layer of shin which doesn't add anything to the wood but protects it a little bit from splintering then that's the right stuff in my humble opinion... but i am no expert.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 2:05am
Poly is the toughest, most resistant thing out there right now. If you play with other things, you take a chance. Some of the glues will soften some kinds of finishes but poly is immune to anything I have tried. Some cleaners will affect finishes also. Poly on a handle will make it slippery. If you get a little on there, just sand that spot with rough sandpaper. (80 or 120 grit)
     The effects of poly finishes on "fast" blades is hardly noticable. Even three coats. On defensive blades, it is more noticable. I have blades with one coat all the way up to 10 coats. All my blades are "fast". All have been done in pairs, one first so I could compare with the other blade. Even with 5 coats on a fast blade, it is hard to tell the difference. Some people "think " it changed the blade more than it really did because the blade with 5 coats will have a higher ping to it but if you compare to a reference blade, the blade plays real close to original.
     If you have a 300 HP engine and add 10 HP, it is not very noticable. If you have a 70 HP VW engine and add 10 HP, you feel it. That is how I think it effects blades.  The slow blades are effected much more than the fast, hard blades.
     If you wipe the poly on, figure out a way to hold the blade flat while it drys. Then you will not get runs. Yeppp, I put it on that thick. Spray is the eaisest to use. My favorite is Minwax Quick Dry Poly.  It is dry to the touch in about 2 hours. Ready to glue in 8 hours. Nothing I have used for glue or cleaners has touched it. Glue sheets and glue both come off great but also hold very well.
     Some blades have a very thin top veneer and if you hit the table, pieces can chip off. If you seal the edges of the blade, it is much less likely to chip.
     When you seal the blade, seal the little wings near the handle and they will stay clean.
     There is one blade with something in the wood that can prevent the poly from hardening. That is the Willpower. I tried wiping it down with  alchohol and no matter what I did, the poly would not harden.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imzadim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 3:23am
When you say poly you are referring to polyurethane, right? The one I have at home is also "poly", but it's polycrylic (spray version), so I'm not sure if this would work as well. If anybody knows please let me know, so I won't have to buy the polyyrethane.

I'm getting a new Tibhar IV-L Balsa, which I don't think is sealed. My current blade (AVX 550) comes already sealed, so I never had to worry about it.

Thanks for all the info!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 11:20am
Poly"crylic" is not the same as poly"urethane". 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imzadim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 4:00pm
I know, but they seem to be similar in what they do. Since you just said poly after my post asking if I could use polycrylic I wasn't sure if you were referring only to polyurethane.

Now I know
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 4:28pm
Originally posted by Imzadim Imzadim wrote:

I know, but they seem to be similar in what they do. Since you just said poly after my post asking if I could use polycrylic I wasn't sure if you were referring only to polyurethane.

Now I know


Polycrylic seems to be fine as well judging by the short reviews at the woodcrafting web sites. The best way  to find out is to go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and ask the guy in the paint dept if there is a lot of diff between polyurethane and polycrylic.

One difference would be that polycrylic is more plastisized than polyurethane and therefore might result in a thicker layer of protection... not sure whether it is good or bad for our purpose. The thing is that I never seen polycrylic mentioned as suitable for blade sealing here at the forums but that could be a simple oversight...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/08/2008 at 9:00pm
The thing I worry about, is it good against glue. I would put a few layers on a peice of wood, and when dry, put thick glue on and cover wet with an old rubber. Check it later to see if the glue attacked the finish. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote assybish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/09/2008 at 6:31am
I use a water based acrylic varnish which I wipe on with a rag let dry for 10 minutes and repeat. It leaves little film - just a light sand to remove standing up fibres.
Works fine with solvent based glues from China and Germany. As always test on an offcut of plywood first and make sure glue does not attack finish. With the ITTA rules on solvents glues will all become water based soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/09/2008 at 10:37am
Hi Assybish,,,
     You are right and then there will be new testing required. PolyU holds up very well with water but some finishes turn milky white with water. Hair spray???  Welll,,,,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/09/2008 at 6:01pm
Yeah, I am sticking with PolyU for now. I wanted to try a sanding sealer since I liked the sealing on the blade that I got from alfie and he used the sanding sealer - so I went to Home Depot and they only had this h-u-uuge can of Minwax sanding sealer for about $15... so I said let's save me some money and do a "green" thing by not buying this...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/09/2008 at 7:07pm
I have used the Minwax sanding sealer also but it does not sand any eaiser than the Minwax Poly. It works well, just it is as hard to sand as the regular finish. I think it fills the grain a little quicker.Smile
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