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Tear Mender Water Based Latex Cement

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chrispycritter1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01/23/2010 at 8:25pm
Does anyone have any experience using Tear Mender WB Latex cement for their blade?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reinecke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2010 at 8:27pm
yes.








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chrispycritter1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2010 at 8:29pm
Would you please let me know your experience with using it?  Is it a good or bad?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reinecke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2010 at 10:15pm
As far as gluing rubbers went I liked it. It bonded well but not so strong to be difficult to remove. The reason I stopped using it and switched to Elmer's Rubber Cement is because the Tear Mender had a short shelf life before it would become lumpy. There is a new formulation out now that has supposedly fixed that problem but I haven't tried it yet.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AgentSmith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2010 at 10:53pm
With the elmer's rubber cement, did you thin it at all?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reinecke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2010 at 11:15pm
I don't, although lots of people do. I started playing table tennis after the VOC era, so I had never used any glue besides water based. The people that thin it may have been used to regular VOC glue before. I also heard that thinning it can cause the rubber to dome more.

I usually just spread it really fast before it dries, I haven't had problem yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2010 at 12:06am
Originally posted by AgentSmith AgentSmith wrote:

With the elmer's rubber cement, did you thin it at all?


Yes it's generally too thick, so thinner is recommeded. Most places that sell the glue also sell the thinners.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reinecke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2010 at 1:46am
What problems arise from it being too thick? I have never had any trouble with the thickness.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gjairmy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2010 at 3:24am
the problem with thick glue:
it doesn't spread out properly and as a result it causes bumps on the sponge when it dries...it's a nightmare
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reinecke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2010 at 3:37am
interesting....

Like I said though, I've never had problems. I never get lumps or anything when I glue. As long as you don't take too long to spread it I can't see how it would be an issue. I actually spread it very quickly because it does dry pretty fast.

One thing I just realized, I get a pretty good build up of glue on my sponge (it is noticeably white) after about 4-5 times of gluing it on again, and I have trouble removing the build up. Could this be from the thicker glue? I actually have a recent topic about this build up issue. I wish I had some new rubber to test this theory on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imago Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2010 at 3:50am
Make it thinner by adding some water. And use a fine sponge to distribute it evenly. Do not squeeze the glue directly onto the rubber' sponge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chrispycritter1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2010 at 7:40am
I appreciate the feedback.  This was my first post here.  Reinecke, I saw the Roll Tide.  Do you live in AL?  I'm living up in Cherokee County.  Nothing around here so I'm gonna' have to start something myself (League or club).  Thanks again for the glue info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ZingyDNA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2010 at 1:48pm
Originally posted by gjairmy gjairmy wrote:

the problem with thick glue:
it doesn't spread out properly and as a result it causes bumps on the sponge when it dries...it's a nightmare


I happen to use rubber cement for the same reason as Reinecke: I bought TearMender but it dried after a while and I had a bottle of Elmer's lying around. I don't thin it either and I haven't had any bumps. It looks uneven right after I spread the cement onto the sponge and blade, but after I let it sit for about 10 min it evens out a lot. I think that's because the solvent evaporates during that time...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sallom89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/10/2010 at 5:38am
Originally posted by AgentSmith AgentSmith wrote:

With the elmer's rubber cement, did you thin it at all?


I got a Elmer's glue called (glue.all), is that any useful for rubbers?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtx634 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/10/2010 at 8:16am
I tried Elmers's Glue All,
it's not recommended for blades,
for others yes,

i used that one, it damaged when of my blades,
when try to remove the glue, you will remove a part blade's layer also


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sallom89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/10/2010 at 8:36am
Originally posted by gtx634 gtx634 wrote:




I tried Elmers's Glue All,it's not recommended for blades,for others yes,i used that one, it damaged when of my blades,when try to remove the glue, you will remove a part blade's layer also


The glue on the top ply is very strong, it looks like the top ply itself with nothing on top.. :(
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rf20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/10/2010 at 10:38am
Add some household ammonia back into Tear Mender will make it useable again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtx634 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/10/2010 at 11:03am
Originally posted by Sallom89 Sallom89 wrote:

Originally posted by gtx634 gtx634 wrote:




I tried Elmers's Glue All,it's not recommended for blades,for others yes,i used that one, it damaged when of my blades,when try to remove the glue, you will remove a part blade's layer also


The glue on the top ply is very strong, it looks like the top ply itself with nothing on top.. :(


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cole_ely Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/10/2010 at 11:24am
You don't have to thin rubber cement if you buy it in the metal can, usually a liter.  Best place I've seen is office depot for $5.50.
 
If you buy the little brown jars they usually are already gloppy to start with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metallikviper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/10/2010 at 11:26am
I usually add a little bit of n-Heptane (since thats whats used to thin it down from the factory) to a new bottle of Elmers rubber cement. Makes it easier to spread and apply. Also I feel when you apply thicker glue it make the sponge a little bumpy. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hojim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/23/2010 at 3:24pm
Originally posted by rf20 rf20 wrote:

Add some household ammonia back into Tear Mender will make it useable again.
I tried adding water to the tear mender. What I notice is that the latex solidify, thus cannot be spread evenly and leaves the blade wet when applied. Just to confirm that the ammonia will restore it and keep it "liquified" on application.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/23/2010 at 7:38pm
Originally posted by hojim hojim wrote:

Originally posted by rf20 rf20 wrote:

Add some household ammonia back into Tear Mender will make it useable again.
I tried adding water to the tear mender. What I notice is that the latex solidify, thus cannot be spread evenly and leaves the blade wet when applied. Just to confirm that the ammonia will restore it and keep it "liquified" on application.


If you add water to TearMender it should be distilled or at least demineralized (reverse osmosis).  Salts in water can cause TearMender to coagulate.

I doubt that adding ammonia to lumpy TearMender will fix anything. My understanding is that the small amount of ammonia that is in TearMender is there as a preservative. It is not a solvent.  But ammonia is cheap.  So if the bottle is unusable, give it a try.  I just don't hold out much hope.

I've never had a bottle of TearMender go bad, but I know a number of people who have.  But then I end up doing more gluing of rubbers than most people.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dauntless Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/23/2010 at 10:42pm
My two cents:

Tear mender is just an OK solution IMHO. Works pretty well, but does not hold as well as Nittaku Finezip. TM dries quickly but it is quite runny. If you apply too thin and then accidentally go over it again, it will start to gum up on you. Once you have a decent technique down, it works well. TM removes very very easily, as long as there is enough of it to remove. I just don't feel it adheres well enough with my gluing technique.

Finezip dries slowly and is thicker. Application is a no-brainer.
Finezip is better in my opinion, extremely easy to use, adheres well (just like VOC glue), easy to remove. The only negative is that is is expensive in comparison to TM. $20 for 100ml. If your blade is super soft and prone to splintering then I would do a light (fine sand, tack cloth, one or two coats, let dry between coats and overnight) seal with a water based sealer like the Andro water seal. It won't affect blade performance massively and it WILL protect your blade. If your topsheet is pretty fine grain and strong like hinoki, then no need. Much easier to remove than regular VOC and most water based nightmares. Also, you could peel off your old rubbers, apply new ones between matches and no need to wait for prolonged dry time or clamping or book stacking. It works quickly once it has dried and the rubber is rolled on.

To me, TM is just an OK glue, while Finezip is a REAL substitute for old school VOC. I will try the Haifu WSB, but not expecting it to outdo the Finezip. I should say that you must let it dry all the way like most water based glues. However TM works better if there is a bit of the glue still a bit wet and then press. Frankly, I just don't like it that much and would rather use Elmers RC than fool around with the TM. Confused Those are my random thoughts about it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anton Chigurh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/23/2010 at 10:46pm
Dauntless:

Please let me know how Haifu WSB compares to Nittaku Finezip. I'm a firm believer in Haifu glue; but, not wanting to be dogmatic, I'm always open to using better products.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dauntless Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/23/2010 at 10:52pm
Be happy to. I have used Andro Free, Yasaka Minozori, Tear Mender, Finezip.
Of these Finezip is the best. Once dried it really looks like a layer of rubber. And it peels as easy as tearmender, but no ammonia smell.
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