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Do you boost your sponge?

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Poll Question: I am interested in how many players boost their sponge.
Poll Choice Votes Poll Statistics
18 [41.86%]
2 [4.65%]
9 [20.93%]
8 [18.60%]
3 [6.98%]
3 [6.98%]
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fmarek View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmarek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/05/2019 at 10:48pm
I am boosting H3 for the first time to understand what this hype is about. I used 2 rather thick layers of falco long. Rubber curled up to 4cm over night and after 1 week I pressed on it with palm. It did spring back to 2cm height and stays like that now ...

How long more should I wait or it's ok to glue curled? Will DHS glue No15 hold?

P.S. I absolutely love, can control and shoot difficult balls with not boosted commercial H3. Don't even know what to expect from that one


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ZJK ALC, FH: Xiom Omega V Asia, BH: DHS Skyline 3-60 H37
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stiltt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/06/2019 at 2:16am
Originally posted by fmarek fmarek wrote:

I am boosting H3 for the first time to understand what this hype is about. I used 2 rather thick layers of falco long. Rubber curled up to 4cm over night and after 1 week I pressed on it with palm. It did spring back to 2cm height and stays like that now ...

How long more should I wait or it's ok to glue curled? Will DHS glue No15 hold?

P.S. I absolutely love, can control and shoot difficult balls with not boosted commercial H3. Don't even know what to expect from that one


Thanks
put it on now asap. one of the best skills in boosting is to legally make the massively curled newly boosted rubber stick to the blade!!! (with water based glue.). I know it sounds weird to insert "legally" in there but I am sure you understand: the booster does not release voc so we're good there and after doing a good job with the rubber, let's not take silly risks playing with bad and easy glues
It is not that easy. If you remember that your boosting job will last more than a month then you can be patient and leave your blade under books for a whole night: keep in mind that often, bad boosting stories are linked to precipitation. It's a game of wait. In your case, you are waiting too long (joke). I sense some shyness so let me say it again: "GO FOR IT NOW!" Big smileClap
I am curious about your results, please share without being afraid to be on the spot, your experience as a newbie is very interesting because you played successfully the rubber without booster, you are going through the boosting process that is new to you and you are comfortable on the forum so all you can share is very valuable as a tt process live experiment.
I can't wait for your comparisons, what you win and what you loose adding the booster factor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kakapo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/06/2019 at 2:32am
I use 2 Dianchi layer every month and a rubber lasts 3 months.
After a month, my FH rubber needs some new "vitamines"
Nittaku Goriki 94gr, victas V15 extra 2mm, super do knuckle, 1,4mm
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fmarek View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmarek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/06/2019 at 7:00am
Quote "GO FOR IT NOW!"

It was unusual to glue curled rubber. I applied my normal routine, but this time used a little more glue (at least I thought so) - layer of glue on the blade, another layer on the rubber. Hair drier. Once glue is transparent - stick. Put blade on the table new rubber facing down, cover with book and put very heavy tools box on top. If I am not planning to play the same day then I keep the whole thing like that until next morning, but today is Sat so I kept it for 2 hours or so, then cut rubber. When scissors were gliding the edge I noticed that exact place where scissors just made a cut the edge of the sponge is separating from the blade, like less than 1 mm. The reason for this is that my blade edge is sealed, so DHS No15 glue is not strong enough. It held fine until scissors rubbed the edge.

After cutting the rubber I checked if that defect is deep into blade or only on the edge. Looked like it was just for a few mm on the edge. I glued that edge back to the blade and covered with edge tape.

Setup is: 
FH - black not boosted H3 2.15mm, H38 
BH - red just "boosted" H3 2.15mm, hardness - used to be H39, now feels similarly soft as H38.
Setup ended up weighting 183g, having very light blade the whole thing became head heavy which I personally like.

When bouncing a ball on the racket I was very surprised how bouncy red rubber is. Actually not LOL. It's a joke. Well ... we are dealing with new sheet of H3, right? Obviously ball does not bounce. It sticks to rubber and travels up and down with the blade just sitting on it's surface heh :)

During game I clearly noticed that both rubbers play differently. Normally I don't expect anything from the new H3 until sheet breaks in. It takes no less than 8-10 hours. The first surprise is that it is kind of playable already. I am BH dominant player, so I test any new thing on BH first.

The behaviour of that red boosted sheet is a bit strange. For most of the time it plays just as regular H3. But then all of the sudden I manage to return difficult balls which wasn't previously possible. 

It feels somewhat in between hard classic Chinese sponge and Chinese cake sponge. During BH attack I felt ball is going faster than usual. My technique developed around not boosted H3, I played it since I started TT (like year ago or so). So I can tell that red boosted sheet is more forgiving. It is not as easy as Xiom Omega V Asia, still requires brushing and etc. but there is more room for errors now. On backspin exchanges when every next push is more difficult due to the closing angel I actually won a few points in the situation were previously it was not possible to push back with not boosted. If not boosted then ball would hit the net. It makes me think that top sheet is more elastic now (even though I did nothing with topsheet) hence having higher throw angle?

I did not spend too long playing with it. These days I use Chinese setup only to warmup for the first 40 min or so. Basically I just won all 5 warmup matches LOL. When just driving the ball I found that H38 black is faster. But during game when more force used then red is more dynamic. I could take balls from a bit further distance. I can feel the difference but seriously that difference is not so big. I mean if that would be it then boosting was not worth it. Improvement is too small. However I need to give this setup more time to open up. Impressions after the first session are never accurate.
ZJK ALC, FH: Xiom Omega V Asia, BH: DHS Skyline 3-60 H37
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vik2000 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vik2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/06/2019 at 10:31am
I'm using H3 Prov B/S with 40 degree hardness. My experience boosting it with FTL (3 layers) is similar to yours. Curled up significantly and didn't show any sign of flattening, even with a stack of books pressed on top for a few days. I just glued it while it's curled and it is a bit "lifted" around the edges. Didn't affect playability and I'm not concerned after wrapping it with an edge tape. 
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emihet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emihet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/06/2019 at 7:39pm
usually only boost the chinese rubbers
301, Viscaria, VR, Clipper Wood
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