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Need Help with Tear Mender

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hleett View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01/10/2020 at 6:26pm
What's the best way to apply the tear mender?  Often times I have some streaks after it dried. Was it too thin/thick? Thanks.
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kindof99 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kindof99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/10/2020 at 6:39pm
What did you use to apply the glue? I used the sponge from the manufacture and it gave much better results than just some random materials from packing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/10/2020 at 7:00pm
What I like to do it use tearmender on the sponge only: I apply 3 fine coats on the sponge and I use 2 thin coats of paper cement for the blade because I do not want water from the glue to contact the wood. 

The bond is solid and durable. It's the best of 2 worlds. 

NOTE: I wait for the paper cement to dry completely on the blade before applying the rubbers, the VOC are gone when I do and none will be detectable.  The paper cement from the blade does not change the characteristics of the blade or the rubbers a little bit so there is no cheating here, just saying.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hleett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/10/2020 at 7:38pm
Thanks for your advises. 

I tried sponges but the tear mender dries up too fast and caked up in no time. So I've been using small  pieces of rubber remnants to spread the tear mender.  It works OK for the most park but sometimes leave some streaks that really have no ill effect on the finish product. I think I might've applied too thick a layer and not spread it out evenly.Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mjamja Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/10/2020 at 7:42pm
2 thin layers seems to work better in not getting the ridges.  If first layer has slight ridges 2nd layer fills in the low spots.  Also if blade is sealed with too much sealer so face is really slick, the water "beads up" like on a waxed car and creates the ridge effect.

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hleett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/10/2020 at 8:27pm
Well said Mark, you hit it right on the spot. I did sealed the blade with 2 thin coats of light violin varnish. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qpskfec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/10/2020 at 8:55pm
If tm is drying too fast, the glue is old. Get a new one or try adding some water to it.

I use these make up sponges from target
https://www.target.com/p/latex-free-foam-cosmetic-wedges-32ct-up-38-up-8482/-/A-11008850

Wet the sponge before spreading the tm

(Even a wet finger works far better than using some random rubber scraps)





Edited by qpskfec - 01/10/2020 at 9:05pm
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hleett View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hleett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/10/2020 at 10:03pm
The TM is not too old. I will try wetting the sponge method. I tried using fingers but the rubber remnant works better with its straight edge so the TM is spread out evenly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/11/2020 at 1:18am
I make two thin coats, one on the rubber and one on the blade.  I dampen the sponge with reverse osmosis rubber before applying.  But yes, I still get a coating that isn't perfectly smooth.  

So I then apply a third coat to the blade - slightly larger than a nickel- spread it thin and then apply the rubber.  I roller out the extra liquid.  This third liquid coat fills in those small ridges and gives me a very flat and smooth glue job.  This is particularly evident since I'm gluing OX (hardbat) rubber and minor imperfections tend to show through.

I use rectangular sponges that I cut from those large orange hardware store tile grout sponges.

Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
Hardbat: Gambler Zebra Classic w/ Dr. Evil
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote passifid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/11/2020 at 4:50am
Add a little water it helps with allowing you to spread with a sponge and also the added thin Ness means less ridges too. I've used one layer of copydex which is basically UK tearmender for years on blade and sponge applied with a washing up sponge and it's fine almost every time first time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote WingTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/11/2020 at 7:35am
The best way to apply Tearmender is not to apply it at all. I found the quality to be a bit variable and had similar issues with it. Use copydex instead. It's thicker and has been more reliable for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kindof99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/11/2020 at 10:15am
I has been buying Donic blue glue (500 ml) from TT11. It is actually cheaper than Tear mender if you can use the whole bottle in one year or two.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/11/2020 at 11:39am
Back when I was looking for glue alternatives due to the insanely high prices of then new water based table tennis glues, I actually found CopyDex before I found TearMender.  The problem was that you just couldn't get CopyDex in the U.S. and the shipping from the U.K. was awfully expensive.  TearMender appeared to be a very similar product and was available in the U.S.  At the time, folks in the U.K. reported that CopyDex generally worked well.  It is now available on Amazon.com though it seems its pricing is more in line with typical water based table tennis glues ... the prices of which have generally come down since those early days when I paid about $8 for a 1/2 oz tube of glue from (I think) Butterfly.
Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
Hardbat: Gambler Zebra Classic w/ Dr. Evil
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qpskfec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/11/2020 at 12:22pm
In China, nobody is paying ridiculous prices for wbg. It is a buck or two per oz, which is why you can get an oz of wbg shipped from China for $3 on aliexpress.

The op problem is the glue is too thick and/or applicator is too dry.

Thin glue plus a wet sponge works fine every time for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/11/2020 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by qpskfec qpskfec wrote:

In China, nobody is paying ridiculous prices for wbg. It is a buck or two per oz, which is why you can get an oz of wbg shipped from China for $3 on aliexpress.

The op problem is the glue is too thick and/or applicator is too dry.

Thin glue plus a wet sponge works fine every time for me.

Maybe.  I think the OP may also be partially concerned about small unevenness that doesn't matter. It is hard to say since he isn't showing final glued rubbers.

If I were gluing sandwich rubbers, I'd probably ignore the issue and just use a standard two coats.  I'd probably stroke the rubber and blade at 90 degree angles and let the cross pattern and the 4mm or so of sponge and rubber even out any micro-irregularities.  As it is, my typical three coat method gets me very smoother results with OX rubber.  The pic below is my current blade/rubber.  The black side is just as even.

Practice and technique do matter, but it isn't that hard.  Also, removing glue on bad jobs is generally pretty easy.


Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
Hardbat: Gambler Zebra Classic w/ Dr. Evil
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