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Sealing Blade with Woodworking Varnish?

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tommyzai View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/09/2012 at 1:43am
Water!
I like Varathane in a jar, not spray.
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Hookshot View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/09/2012 at 2:25am
I agree, I have used both and am using the can after the spray ran out. No more clogged nozzels. A small can can do dozens of blades. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/09/2012 at 7:46am
Hey Tommy, I bought a Violin from you, about a year and a half ago. It is sealed and is shiny. I had to wait extra long to let the rubber set on it because of that. But it is a beautiful seal, what is that?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BarryB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2014 at 5:34am
Been a while since the last post. I've a question about blade sealing.
In the previous posts especially Hookshot and Tommyzai explained how they use Poly-U products to varnish blades. It was stated that the playing characteristics only change when you apply too many layers.
 
I was wondering what to do if you only want to seal one side of the blade?
E.g. I play modern defensive with a Donic Deplay Senso blade (Gabon en Anegre dampening outer plies) with TSP curl P4 0.5 mm on BH and Xiom Vega Japan 2.0mm on FH.
Besides the slower woods, the blade is also quit flexible. For the BH it's quit okay the way it is, I don't think I want to change it. But the FH feels a bit mushy at times and I think I would like it a tiny bit harder. I also expect to change my FH a lot more often than the BH rubber.
 
Would varnishing my FH side with 2 layers of a Poly-U wood varnish (so not varnishing the BH) also effect my BH side? Or not.
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tommyzai View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2014 at 12:36pm
Originally posted by BarryB BarryB wrote:

. . . . I was wondering what to do if you only want to seal one side of the blade?

I play a combination game. I lightly seal the FH side with one coat of satin Miniwax (rubbed in, not thickly coated). I put two coats of sealant on the BH side as I use glue sheets that would destroy un-sealed wood when removed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GMan4911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2014 at 1:13pm
I've been using Deft Sanding Sealer to seal my blades.  Very easy to apply and dries very fast, less than 1/2 hour.  About 2 quick sprays per side is all you need.  No need to sand unless you spray too much. 
 
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in2spin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote in2spin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2014 at 1:26pm
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-12-oz-Aerosol-Clear-Shellac-408/100176744

i usually spray around the edge heavily at first, then on both faces, then take a disposable t-shirt or sock (lintless) and rub off the excess

do not have a long elapsed time (usually about 20-30 seconds)

adds a very very miniscule amount of weight, doesn't really affect the speed, but it does prevent splintering

:)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puppy412 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2014 at 1:32pm
let me give ->YOU<- a personal advice.

don't use varnish!
use lacquer.

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estregan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote estregan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2015 at 4:16am
Will polyurethane smudge the blade printing? I tried to use lacquer sanding sealer and it smudged the blade printing.
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zeropong View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeropong Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2015 at 7:49am
Have used this on over 1000 blades over the years, none of the KTL or 729 blades come with lacquer, and many players want them sealed prior to glue. Not saying it's the best, but it works fast and does not fill the wood grain as it has pretty good penetration. (edit to address smudging) I have never found this product to smudge printing on a blade, it is a spray so as long as you do not aggressively wipe it around you will not have this problem.



Edited by zeropong - 10/21/2015 at 7:52am
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Aman1234 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aman1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2015 at 9:42am
If the blade was originally finished with Varnish, I would not recommend that lacquer be used over it. Problem is we do not know what if anything was used at the factory. If you must, you need to lightly sand and apply very light coats. I believe varnish over lacquer is safer than lacquer over varnish.
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