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Restoring your topsheet with oil (video) |
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Egghead
Premier Member Joined: 09/05/2009 Location: N.A. Status: Offline Points: 4230 |
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hmm, those stuff work (I try the green works which has lemon oil in it, the grip and spin are back), may be I will try try the pc monitor screen cleaner Edited by Egghead - 09/11/2010 at 1:28am |
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Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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tompy
Super Member Joined: 06/12/2010 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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I tried many things last few years ; olive-oil, parrafine, eucalyptus-oil, glycerine, baby-oil and it makes not much difference what I use as long as the rubber absorbs it it seems to work for increasing the grip or keep it at the same level longer (more then a year is no problem).
More etheric thin fluid oils like lemon-oil or eucalyptus work in shorter time. They are absorbed and penetrate in to the topsheet quicker. Then the effect may seem stronger but Olive-oil to me does approx the same. Eucalyptus has some advantage for speed but then I could also use faster rubbers. Spin is my main concern. Disadvantage is that it evaporates much faster (etheric oil). To use these thin oilsproperly it makes no sense to let it absorb for an hour and then play. All the oil is still at the outer surface of the rubber then. How strong it smells is how fast it evaporates again also. A sealing method can avoid this. Easiest to seal is to use some plastic or and spread that out on the topsheet (or sponge) after applying the tuner. The tuning layer makes it stick on grippy topsheets also. The oils can,t evaporate then and mix in with the rubber. After twenty-four hours it feels as a new rubber where you take the thin plastic sheet of. "High viscosity", long ballholding time etc it says on packages of tacky chinese rubbers and that,s what the tuning does. The whole rubber becomes more viscous, same as new rubber has a more gelly/viscous feel as older, worn out and dried out, rubbers. Rubber contains oils allready when you buy it new. Added to the rubber mixture at the factory to keep it supple and grippy. Only thing to be cautious about is to threat the rubber and get it from the blade then. It has anegative dome then. Treating the topsheet after the rubber is applied to the blade it builds a tension between topsheet and sponge (which would make it unreglementar). The topsheet wants to expand but the blade keeps it from expanding means tension. Only then it gives a slight glued feel. On the reglamentary part it dependsa little. When I glue on a new rubber sheet (no dome) and then tune the topsheet afterwards I build in tension and have a -minimal -tension effect from it that mostly works for spin not so much for speed. But when the rubber is on the blade for a week or a few weeks and I do nothing the rubber is shrinking as it dries (the shrinking tenergybut tensors have this in a extreme way also). The blade holds it from shringking wich means that doing nothing I build tension also. This time the build in tension works out negative but the reglementssay nothing about how it works out for playing. So doing nothing would be just as irregular then doing something. It becomes regular maintenance then and therefor it,s regular. Often when I buy new rubber it has a slight negative dome. Gluing iton the blade I also build in negative tension...irregular. So I give it a few tuning layers to avoid that I build in - irregular - tension. After a few week if I feel the rubber becomes negatively tensioned I have to tune again to avoid a referee could have problems with my setup. Edited by tompy - 09/11/2010 at 5:59am |
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bozbrisvegas
Premier Member Joined: 09/27/2008 Location: Behind you Status: Offline Points: 3728 |
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Everyone probably noticed that the whole rubber wore out except for the part where your fingers usually sit. I am guessing this is because of the constant oil added to the rubber from the fingers which probably protects the rubber against oxidation. Which makes me wonder if what we should do as soon as we finish playing is:
1. wash off the dust 2. add a thin layer of cooking oil (something organic without volatile chemicals) don't allow it to evaporate. 3. seal the rubber with plastic sheet to keep the oil in and O2 out, then air bubles would do less damage. Be proactive about making your rubber last, instead of trying to restore something already lost... Only thing I would worry about is the topsheet getting too soft, gluggy...
Edited by bozbrisvegas - 12/13/2021 at 3:12pm |
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