having trouble looping!

It sounds like you're better at looping with softer rubbers. I'd change the rubber and see how it goes.

Looping with hard tacky rubbers requires a level of finesse that many of us can not attain. Softer rubbers suit the rest of us.

Work on strokes, not equipment.

Hookshot wrote: Work on strokes, not equipment.

Amen to this. Equipment will only give you so much of an advantage (and not much of one). Make sure you are focusing on drilling, getting the right technique down and just playing a lot. This is a repetitious sport that requires a lot of practice. Do you know any experienced players that can watch you and give you advice? Or you could make a video of yourself and post it on here for people to analyze and critique for your own benefit. Also in regard to softer rubbers switching to those only make your game worse if you are trying to learn and develop a loop. Soft rubbers are really good for hitting the ball really hard with some control but when it comes to variation in spin and such you'll learn softer rubbers aren't going to be that good. Medium to hard rubbers will be the equipment to look at and just focus on your skills more than the equipment.

I could use some help looping. On both wings too. Can someone give an overview of what should be happening on either loop, please?

bull_harrier wrote: TheRobot99 wrote: I could use some help looping. On both wings too. Can someone give an overview of what should be happening on either loop, please? So what exactly are you asking here? Let me ask you this, what are you struggling with when trying to perform your loops?

I was asking for a description of what your body should be doing as you take a forehand or backhand loop or counterloop. Usually I struggle with not using proper form on a lot of shots I miss.

If people read what i said at first, i can loop but not with my own bat!?!

oliverpink wrote: Hi everyone, im using DHS hurricane king blade with DHS G888 on both sides.

Switching gear is not the answer.  What oliverpink has is more than good enough for looping.

First of all, G888 and Neos are really different. One is tacky slow rubber, the other is grippy medium speed. It reqires different technique. I use tacky rubbers on FH, i can loop with grippy rubbers but I will play like cr@#..
HK with G888 (max thickness i presume) both sides is a bit on a heavy side. This will hinder your movement and your recovery. HK is a good blade, you can do a bit of everything with it..
So my advice is either you decide to move to Neos or stick with the G888 but try to change the BH rubber to something lighter.. If you pick the latter, you need to be patience, when you switch gear you will need an adjustment period. How long is that period? That depends on yourself..

I think that topic is already discussed in the Chionese vs Euro loop thread...
And the rubber you mentioned is not a pure Chinese hard tacky like Hurricanes, or Skylines. PAlio CJ8000 is only mildly tacky, sponge is relatively soft. I am not sure which 729 super FX version you use, if it is the new version you are talking about, has a very soft sponge like euro rubbers, and not nearly as tacky as the classic 729 FX..


Edited by dragon kid - 02/13/2011 at 2:22am

That does look like the classic. There are the blue sponge and orange sponge version with the blue sponge a bit softer, livelier and springy. The orange sponge is as hard as commercial Hurricanes. if you can loop with that, than your loop must be quite powerful.. 729 FX classic is a great rubber 
The thing is I so used to using hard sponge, hard topsheet rubber. Of course I can loop with european rubbers (I can loop with Hexer on my other side of the blade), but my loops will not be as good, spin, speed and placement wise..

That video is a classic..
there are a few of them, showing different strokes like pushing, looping, etc.. I understand the guy is some kind of professor in sport or something like that...

Sorry, my main point is that soft, grippy tensors (like acuda s3, donic f3, andro plasma 380, joola energy) are stupidly easy to loop with (and you can use any variation of loop technique, it doesn't have to be textbook, or even good) and rubbers like classic H3, G888 or 729 Super FX require more exacting technique and greater effort, but can produce significant power (and much greater spin VARIATION) when you develop a compatible stroke.

Icontek,

You've almost convinced me to go back to 729 Super FX, if it can consistently force me to swing with perfect technique. I don't like it, though, because it requires so much maintenance during play! Every 30 minutes I have to wipe it clean of the waxy powder from the balls or it completely loses its grip. For some reason, my rubbers are also wearing very fast; too fast for my play frequency, which is about 5 hours per week. There are some spots on them that are completely non-tacky and non-grippy. Slippery bald spots they are!

I had the rubbers for both FH and BH, on a Yasaka Extra. Many have commented that this setup is slow and also not ideal for looping. I really have no opinion on that, because as I've said, I loop the same way with nearly identical results with the different blades and rubbers that I've tried, though I have not had the chance to try blades or rubbers that are super fast or super slow. Do you have any blade recommendations? How 'bout the Primorac? Thanks.

icontek wrote: What rubbers are you using? I have seen this with some Gambler, LKT, YinHe and 729 rubbers. Genuine DHS topsheets seem to be more immune (assuming ingame cleaning as above)

Regarding early wear, it's my 729 Super FX rubbers, especially the black one. Paired with my YE, the setup produces an almost hollow sound on contact.