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Should I lacquere my blade?

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Hefner View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02/15/2008 at 7:07pm
I just bought a maze passion blade a few weeks ago and was wondering if I should lacquere the blade? Has it already been done or is neccesary to lacquere every blade you buy?


Butterfly Maze Off
Stiga Boost TC both sides




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tommyzai View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 7:15pm
Here you go!!!
Don't lacquer . . .
Double Seal as per Chinese Specs (used to be triple seal, but more conservative now).
I seal everything and I always will. You'll get some debate about sealing, but those players are pulling chunks of top ply off each time they change rubbers. :-).
THE UNSTOPPABLE EJ MADMAN!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 7:16pm
VARATHANE DIAMOND INTERIOR WOOD FINISH-SATIN (not gloss)-#2002-61.

*Prepare blade first. If you have to lightly sand, do it carefully with a fine gauge sponge sanding block-DRY. If you wet-sand a bare wood blade it might sofen the wood and could disform it. Do not round off blade edges. Use rubbing alcohol to clean. Let dry (a few minutes). Now you're ready . . .

1. Stir Can well without shaking (causes air bubbles).
2. Dip the corner (twisted or folded up a little) of clean, dry cotton cloth* and quickly rub the sealer into the blade and with a technique that covers evenly. I go in circles starting at the center of the face of the blade and work my way to the outter edges, then wipe along the side edge (perimeter) of the blade where the edge tape will go, then quickly return to the face of the blade to wipe off any spill over from the edge sealing with some light vertical strokes from handle out over top of blade. You might want to stroke a nice even level line across the top of the handle where the bottom edge of the rubber will go; however, I think it looks better and strenthens the blade to seal the wings/shoulder. Some prefer to use a sponge or china bristle brush when applying, but that leaves a heavy coat and/or streaks of sealant. THAT IS NO GOOD. The trick is to rub the sealant INTO the blade, then gently wipe off the excess with the cloth. Some use a good quality paper towel. Basically, use whatever is clean and doesn't leave link or fuzz stuck in the wet sealant.
3. Wait two hours, then polish with a clean dry cloth.
4. Repeat.
5. Repeat a third or forth time ONLY if the blade is like bare porous wood or if you want a stiffer lacquered effect (I have over sealed and made a mess. My blade looked like an over protected night table . . . hard as a rock and too thick). Luckily, I managed to fix this by sanding with a fine gauge wet sanding sponge and it took hours to repair my disaster. But only do this if you mess up, which you shouldn't. However, I should mention many of the Chinese players are over-sealing to stiffen the blade. Some call over-sealing "lacquering." There are also other product and techniques specifically designed for lacquering, but I recommend using Varathane and adjusting the number of layers.
6. Wait 24-hours.
7. Affix your rubbers! I use glue sheets and NEVER get splinters when removing!!!!!!

*Use a cotton cloth or an expensive paper towel like Bounty that will not leave lint of fall apart and get stuck to your wet sealer. I use an old pair of 100% cotton boxer shorts. :-).

I don't remember who turned me on to this Sealer, but it was on this site. My hats off to him/her. I added the boxer shorts.

THE UNSTOPPABLE EJ MADMAN!


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yogi_bear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yogi_bear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 7:35pm
there you go seal king!!! (not the mammal seal or a stamping seal)LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IceDefence Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 8:10pm
Helgi, you can trust on Tommy Z
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 10:15pm
Tommy and I have traded blades and I use Minwax Poly, quick Dry. Both work very similar. We use the same method to apply. I have put as many as 10 coats on for the "glass" look. Both finishes are immune to glues, tuners, etc.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ksu06 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 10:42pm
Quick question: what is the best glue to attach rubbers to a sealed blade?  Awhile back, I was trying to attach a rubber to a sealed blade with some JUIC glue and had a hard time getting it to stick.  Since so many people seal their blades, I'm convinced that it is not the polyurethane that is the problem, but instead the type of glue that I used.  I actually have to buy more glue, so now is a good time to ask.  Any suggestions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 11:18pm
I have used glue sheets and they stick very well even with the clear finish, not the satin.
Elmers rubber cement has also worked well and Stiga Victory. If you have a huge dome, it can be hard, sealed or not. Then I use the Clicky press and more layers of glue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ksu06 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2008 at 11:24pm
Oh yeah, that's a good point cuz I think the polyurethane I used was clear, not satin.  I had the can lying around for some cupboards a few months ago and did not justify buying another can for such a small job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote speed_king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/16/2008 at 9:54am
Yeah, trust Tommyzai. You can also try this method with my combo. I seal my new friend blade (Schlager carbon) 2 times with Joola lacquer! Its great, and non splinters at all! Even Schlager carbon has thick hinoki outer ply, I protect him double for all lifetime of the blade!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ttvet86 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/16/2008 at 10:17am
Question for Tommyzai: is Varathane Diamond Interior wood finish classified as a sealer or, since it is a"finish", a lacquer?  A quick check on the rustoleum website (makers of varathane) shows a sanding sealer that seals wood grains and sounds as if it would work better. And I assume you are using the water based version, right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/16/2008 at 10:50am
Hi TTvet,,,
     Tommy uses water based and I don't. They both work.
     One thing about water based finishes, they will raise the grain more than the mineral finishes. Some woods, the grain wont raise at all but some will raise little wiskers with the water based that would not with the other. Then you "Have to" sand the first layer smooth.
     I have used the Minwax Sanding Sealer and it is just like the regular Poly but a tad thicker. It does not sand any eaiser than the Poly but I think fills the grain quicker.Smile
     The terms lacquer and finish is not to be compared. Lacquer is a "Type" of finish just like PolyU is a "type" of finish. If you try "lacquer, shallac" or any other "type" of finish, you should test them for resistance to glue and tuners before using them on a blade. Nothing is as bullet proof as PolyU that I know of.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pongcrazy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/16/2008 at 11:53am
I have used both sanding sealer and polyurethane and have found that the sanding sealer dries to a little softer finish and the Poly dries a little harder for better edge protection.  Especially if multiple coats are used. If you are just worried about top ply splintering either will do the job.  Just note that some Poly is not compatible to go on top of coat of sanding sealer so to make it simple, don't alternate coats between the two.  If you use glue sheets  I would suggest Poly.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ttvet86 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/16/2008 at 7:16pm
Thanks for the added info guys! I've got an old blade I'm going to practice on, see how it goes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/16/2008 at 7:30pm
ttvet86,
I think Hookshot answered your q to me really well!
Another thought . . . how much (coats) you use will also depend on the top ply of the blade, i.e., Stiga blades = MORE. Butterfly blades = less. I would put one nice coat on anything and everything, then adjust from there depending on the hardness of the top ply. The Acoustic + Violin need on one, unless you are using glue sheets. I just put three coats on my Stiga Offensive CR and lots of grain are still touchable and rough. It soaks up the sealant! i usually seal until about half of the grains have been glassed over. First coat rubbed in. Second coat wiped over, then see if you need another.
Best of luck.
THE UNSTOPPABLE EJ MADMAN!


For More Information, Contact: tommy@tommyzai.com
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