THE CLIPPER CLUB!!

May I remind ppl that Clipper Cpen looks as sweet as my last 1:

Wow. You are really a trustflull man. With receipt and all the PM. Thanks again Tommyzai for a blade.

Thanks Flick! :-).
I'm tryin'.

Sorry bbkon, I only have the Clipper Classic CPEN, however, sealing is almost the same as their $4 ultra violet coating.

Some guy chickened out or someth'n? Wuaht...some more r coming? U sure there r ppl here have already booked or promised to want them?

Hi Tommy,

Can you put my name on your list for a <84g Clipper Cpen?

Thanks,

cmk1

sadius wrote: Received a package today.  I can't believe a good quality blade at 43 dollars.  Really enjoy looking at it.  Thanks again

:-).

*Prepare blade first. If you have to lightly sand, do it carefully with an extra fine gauge sponge sanding block-DRY. If you wet-sand a bare wood blade it might soften the wood and could deform it. Do not round off blade edges unless you like it that way. Use rubbing alcohol to clean. Let dry (a few minutes). Now you're ready . . .

VARATHANE DIAMOND INTERIOR WOOD FINISH-SATIN (not gloss)-#2002-61.

1. Stir can well without shaking (causes air bubbles).
2. Dip the corner (twisted or folded up a little) of clean, dry cotton cloth* and quickly rub the sealer into the blade and with a technique that covers evenly. I go in circles starting at the center of the face of the blade and work my way to the outer edges, then wipe along the side edge (perimeter) of the blade where the edge tape will go, then quickly return to the face of the blade to wipe off any spill over from the edge sealing with some light vertical strokes from handle out over top of blade. You might want to stroke a nice even level line across the top of the handle where the bottom edge of the rubber will go; however, I think it looks better and strengthens the blade to seal the wings/shoulder. Some prefer to use a sponge or china bristle brush when applying, but that leaves a heavy coat and/or streaks of sealant. THAT IS NO GOOD. The trick is to rub the sealant INTO the blade, then gently wipe off the excess with the cloth.
3. Wait one hour, then polish with a clean dry cloth.
4. Repeat.
5. Repeat a third time ONLY if the blade is like bare porous wood or if you want a stiffer lacquered effect (I have over sealed and made a mess. My blade looked like an over protected night table . . . hard as a rock and too thick). Luckily, I managed to fix this by sanding with a fine gauge wet sanding sponge and it took hours to repair my disaster. But only do this if you mess up, which you shouldn't. However, I should mention many of the Chinese players are over-sealing to stiffen the blade. Some call over-sealing "lacquering." There are also other product and techniques specifically designed for lacquering, but I recommend using Varathane and adjusting the number of layers.
6. Let harden overnight or longer if you can wait. 3-days is best.
7. Affix your rubbers! I use glue sheets and NEVER get splinters when removing!!!!!!

*Use a cotton cloth or an expensive paper towel like Bounty that will not leave lint of fall apart and get stuck to your wet sealer. I use an old pair of 100% cotton boxer shorts. :-).

I learned the technique in China.
I don't remember who turned me on to this Varathane, but it was on MYTT.
My hats off to him/her. I added the boxer shorts.

Got my blade and just sealed it. Thanks Tommy for the good deal.

tommy,i could barely find the mummyyou are definetly the best packer on the planet...thank you very much.beautiful blade and super fast delivery.

Did you seal it with Varathane as Tommy suggested?  Did you seal the handle too?  It looks darker and has that shine.

Nope.  I used Minwax water base Polyurethane clear Satin bought from Home Depot. And finger nail sand block. Little sponge brush. Very light sand after each coat.

I used "Bulls Eye" shellac -ethanol based....it was the first time i used it.I think it is the same thing Joola is selling