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Handcrafted Blades by Ross Leidy

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 9:20pm
Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

My new TT baby (in the mail):
 
RL 7-ply
white limba-red dyed koto-black limba-kiri-black limba-red dyed koto-white limba

Best of luck with the new blade!  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 9:16pm
Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

Here is the real finished products picture, ready for shipping tomorrow morning Big smile

Peter, I think you must have a neural connection to your photo hosting site.  :)  I no sooner email the final photos and they appear on mytt.  :)  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 9:13pm
Originally posted by strikewzen strikewzen wrote:

wow a true artist ... and a master of taste (not ass kissing but admiring sincerely)

although i do not have money for them right now if i may ask a curious question

for J pen users  that only play with one surface, is it still necessary to have the reverse side of the blade laminated just like the playing surface? all Jpen multiplies have the exact same laminates on both surfaces. why is this the case? wouldn't it be more efficient to have a thicker core to support the playing surface instead?

thank you very much for sharing with us, i think they are not expensive, and are true masterpieces
Hey, thanks strikewzen.  I appreciate the kind words about the blades.  To answer your question, it's not entirely necessary to maintain symmetric plies, but it does help to reduce an issues due to dissimilar expansion/contraction issues between different woods.  On a thick Jpen with it's smaller shape, that not as much of an issue.  So actually, a thick Jpen is the safest place to use asymmetric compositions. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 9:10pm
Here is the real finished products picture, ready for shipping tomorrow morning Big smile












Edited by peter79 - 12/30/2011 at 8:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 7:40pm
Originally posted by Ross Leidy Ross Leidy wrote:

Originally posted by JimT JimT wrote:

I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others...
If you are applying multiple coats of poly, if you let the previous coat cure too long before applying the next, then it doesn't adhere as well and can result in the peeling layers as you describe.  To prepare the surface on an already poly-coated blade, use some fine sandpaper (say 400 grit) or a green scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface to give it some "tooth" so that the new coat of poly will have something to grip.  Also, apply it in a thin coat.  You should wipe off as much as you can after applying it.  You don't want any really wet spots showing on the surface.


With "letting the cure too long" do you mean hours, days or months ? I usually apply the second coat after one or two days, and until now I have no peeling, but reading your post I become a bit worried.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carryboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 7:34pm
Interesting, you have anymore pictures fatt?? Would love to see the rest of it!!!!!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 3:42pm
Originally posted by Ross Leidy Ross Leidy wrote:

Originally posted by JimT JimT wrote:

I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others...
If you are applying multiple coats of poly, if you let the previous coat cure too long before applying the next, then it doesn't adhere as well and can result in the peeling layers as you describe.  To prepare the surface on an already poly-coated blade, use some fine sandpaper (say 400 grit) or a green scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface to give it some "tooth" so that the new coat of poly will have something to grip.  Also, apply it in a thin coat.  You should wipe off as much as you can after applying it.  You don't want any really wet spots showing on the surface.


No multiple layers - just one layer, relatively thin. After that changed rubbers on that blade about 10 times over 1 year time... when I pulled off the last rubbers, the sealer started to peel off as well, leaving traces of dried-up poly on the sponge. Blade surface looks kinda ugly after that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strikewzen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 1:05pm
wow a true artist ... and a master of taste (not ass kissing but admiring sincerely)

although i do not have money for them right now if i may ask a curious question

for J pen users  that only play with one surface, is it still necessary to have the reverse side of the blade laminated just like the playing surface? all Jpen multiplies have the exact same laminates on both surfaces. why is this the case? wouldn't it be more efficient to have a thicker core to support the playing surface instead?

thank you very much for sharing with us, i think they are not expensive, and are true masterpieces
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 11:28am
Originally posted by JimT JimT wrote:

I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others...
If you are applying multiple coats of poly, if you let the previous coat cure too long before applying the next, then it doesn't adhere as well and can result in the peeling layers as you describe.  To prepare the surface on an already poly-coated blade, use some fine sandpaper (say 400 grit) or a green scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface to give it some "tooth" so that the new coat of poly will have something to grip.  Also, apply it in a thin coat.  You should wipe off as much as you can after applying it.  You don't want any really wet spots showing on the surface.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 11:21am
Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:


I use paint remover to remove the sealer, But the ink print will disappear too...


eesh... I see. Perhaps there is a gentler way? maybe taking more time but not as drastic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 11:18am
Originally posted by JimT JimT wrote:

Originally posted by Ross Leidy Ross Leidy wrote:

Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

Originally posted by mg mg wrote:

Peter, may I ask you what do you use for sealing the handles? Thanks


It's is sealed by Ross, usually I use MinWax Polyurethane to seal my blade handle.

Peter and I are on the same wavelength here.   I use the oil-based Minwax Wipe-On Poly.  The oil-based product really brings out the character of the wood.


I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others...


I use paint remover to remove the sealer, But the ink print will disappear too...
Andro Wanokiwami AO Offensive 83 gr
H3 National Orange 40 deg 2.2
Baracuda Max
182 Gr

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 11:13am
Originally posted by Ross Leidy Ross Leidy wrote:

Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

Originally posted by mg mg wrote:

Peter, may I ask you what do you use for sealing the handles? Thanks


It's is sealed by Ross, usually I use MinWax Polyurethane to seal my blade handle.

Peter and I are on the same wavelength here.   I use the oil-based Minwax Wipe-On Poly.  The oil-based product really brings out the character of the wood.


I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 12:12am
Originally posted by Hookshot Hookshot wrote:

Where did you find out about the difference in durability or is that your opinion?


I've tried all of them...
Andro Wanokiwami AO Offensive 83 gr
H3 National Orange 40 deg 2.2
Baracuda Max
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2011 at 12:05am
Where did you find out about the difference in durability or is that your opinion?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 11:50pm
Originally posted by Ross Leidy Ross Leidy wrote:

 
Peter and I are on the same wavelength here.   I use the oil-based Minwax Wipe-On Poly.  The oil-based product really brings out the character of the wood.


It's more durable than the Water based polyurethane and the spray one.
Oh I can't wait to test my blade, patient... patient....

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Baracuda Max
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 11:04pm
Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

Originally posted by mg mg wrote:

Peter, may I ask you what do you use for sealing the handles? Thanks


It's is sealed by Ross, usually I use MinWax Polyurethane to seal my blade handle.

Peter and I are on the same wavelength here.   I use the oil-based Minwax Wipe-On Poly.  The oil-based product really brings out the character of the wood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 11:01pm
Originally posted by mizutani_jun mizutani_jun wrote:

Originally posted by speedspin speedspin wrote:

I might be interested in a custom blade like the Viscaria in dimensions & composition (carbon/arylate), but about 85 g in weight. PM me.  Thanks.


+1.
I also thinking same thing as you.
It will be great if he can make custom arylate carbon blade.

Someday I'll branch out into composites.  I have a lot of experience using fiberglass and carbon from building kayaks, but it's a more labor intensive and costly process.  There are enough variables in building all-wood blades so I'm trying to keep a few things constant for a while.  You can be assured that if I do start building composite blades, I'll share the result on the forums.


Edited by Ross Leidy - 12/29/2011 at 8:32am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by mg mg wrote:

Peter, may I ask you what do you use for sealing the handles? Thanks


It's sealed by Ross, usually I use MinWax Polyurethane to seal my blade handle.


Edited by peter79 - 12/28/2011 at 11:05pm
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Baracuda Max
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mizutani_jun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by speedspin speedspin wrote:

I might be interested in a custom blade like the Viscaria in dimensions & composition (carbon/arylate), but about 85 g in weight. PM me.  Thanks.


+1.
I also thinking same thing as you.
It will be great if he can make custom arylate carbon blade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmerkel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 5:27pm
Originally posted by mg mg wrote:

Peter, may I ask you what do you use for sealing the handles? Thanks
I believe that he meant Ross is adding another layer of sealer. He usually adds 2 layers to the blade and 4 to the handle. I wouldn't think that it would need additional sealing after that....but that's personal preference, keeping in mind that every layer of sealer on the blade makes the outer ply a bit harder.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here....Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 4:00pm
Peter, may I ask you what do you use for sealing the handles? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 10:47am
Originally posted by zheyi zheyi wrote:

cpen can use the same color handle?
Yes.  That handle is bocote (with the stripes) with ziricote on the end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zheyi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 10:46am
And he still tot you just change the handle!!! haha LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross Leidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 10:43am
Originally posted by jcdi jcdi wrote:

Oh my......It's so well done that I've been fooled like a newbie. Congrats ! Can't wait you tell us how it plays.
High praise, my friend.  Thanks.  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jolan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 2:44am
Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

Originally posted by jcdi jcdi wrote:

As far as I understand, Ross didn't do the HK clone himself. It is an original HK on which he put a new handle. Am I right ?


I take a photo of Hurricane King ply and Ross use his own wood to make the same thickness and composition.
Unfortunately there's no spruce, so he use Alaskan yellow chedar as a subs for the spruce.

JDCI, if you pay close attention to the shape of the headsize and shape of the handle, it's the shape of Latika!! Big smile
 
Oh my......It's so well done that I've been fooled like a newbie. Congrats ! Can't wait you tell us how it plays.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 2:26am
Well my blade still need a coat of sealer tomorrow, so it's not a finished product...

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Baracuda Max
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 2:05am
Originally posted by jcdi jcdi wrote:

As far as I understand, Ross didn't do the HK clone himself. It is an original HK on which he put a new handle. Am I right ?


I take a photo of Hurricane King ply and Ross use his own wood to make the same thickness and composition.
Unfortunately there's no spruce, so he use Alaskan yellow chedar as a subs for the spruce.

JDCI, if you pay close attention to the shape of the headsize and shape of the handle, it's the shape of Latika!! Big smile
Andro Wanokiwami AO Offensive 83 gr
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Baracuda Max
182 Gr

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jolan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 1:47am
Originally posted by zheyi zheyi wrote:

I wonder how this hk clone will play if transform to a cpen.. cpen can use the same color handle?
As far as I understand, Ross didn't do the HK clone himself. It is an original HK on which he put a new handle. Am I right ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zheyi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2011 at 12:28am
I wonder how this hk clone will play if transform to a cpen.. cpen can use the same color handle?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ripag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/27/2011 at 11:08pm
I believe that Ross uses only wood veneers at this time.
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