H3neo Any boosted it

chop4ever wrote: spinnyserve wrote: will these booster damage the wood on the blade?   And in your experience, boosted commercial h3 neo behaves better than unboosted provincial neo h3? I have my blade for almost 10 years using booster. All the print have gone out due to thousands times taking off and cleaning glue. However, there is no sign of any damage caused by oily booster on wood. I can't compare boosted and unboosted Chinese hard rubbers together.

for FTL, I'd recommend just do 3 layers, one layer per day. and glue the rubber on the fourth day.

spinnyserve wrote: will these booster damage the wood on the blade?   And in your experience, boosted commercial h3 neo behaves better than unboosted provincial neo h3?

I have my blade for almost 10 years using booster. All the print have gone out due to thousands times taking off and cleaning glue. However, there is no sign of any damage caused by oily booster on wood.
I can't compare boosted and unboosted Chinese hard rubbers together.

FTL and Seamoon take a bit longer to dry because they are thick.  Thinner boosters like Dianchi and Kailin dry faster

February 2014

And yes depending on the booster

I don't understand this boosting craze.  Paraffin oil is very light and will evaporate quickly.  So will its effects.  Heavier oils will not evaporate but if they don't I can assure you that the oil will not compress and be as springy as the air in the air pockets of the sponge.

Do not boost.

schen wrote: I tune my H3 NEO with 5-7 layers (5 for 2.2, 6 for 2.15, 7 for 2.1) depending on the sponge thickness and push it to the maximum legal limit to get the most out of it.

When you tune that much, over 2-3 weeks time don't you feel the oil seep to surface of sheets. When I tune 3 coats and a month later 2-3 coats. After 2-3 weeks I feel the top sheet is little oily and lost some grips.

Also, related to the topic. I found out the the sponge of my hurricane 3 (not sure if it was neo/ or the regular one) rubbers has those ridges on the sponge. Does that mean my h3 is the regular version?

I prefer the dhs #15 glue - it has a strong bond without damaging the blade and comes off easily and most importantly it is THIN! Too thick of glue will jeopardize how thick you can safely boost the sponge before going over the legal limit!

Boosting over the glue gives a very soft feel for me to the point where i lose my touch and prolongs the drying time before you can stick it. I also notice a large drop in power/kick when boosting over glue, as well as a tendency for my racket covering to fail the thickness test because of the saturated glue layer.

The amount of layers i boost with corresponds to how far i can push the rubber before it becomes illegally thick.

What's the difference between boosting over glue and boosting right into the sponge in terms of how it plays? The reason I ask is because in another thread someone said that chinese players like to put a glue layer between each boost, supposedly it helps the boost sink in slower to prevent problems.

Also, what's the best combination, 5 layers on 2.2 sponge, 6 layers on 2.15, or 7 layers on 2.1? Or does it not matter all that much.

I boost directly to the sponge, never over glue.  I don't like the feeling, but some people do, so I figure it's optional.

I assume you don't put a layer of glue before each boost layer schen, that would get pretty thick with 5 layers.

I would avoid putting anything on the topsheet, that is a quick way to kill the rubber even if you get a tiny bit of performance gain for a short while.  

Edited by schen - 01/12/2015 at 7:04am

+1. Same to me.  If I tune 3 layers or more, rubbers work great for 2 weeks after that Slip.