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For the J-Penners : the length of a J-Pen handle |
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aeoliah
Premier Member Joined: 11/18/2005 Location: Indonesia Status: Offline Points: 3215 |
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Posted: 08/14/2017 at 10:54pm |
I am wondering why and how the length of a J-Pen handle is determined by the manufacturers. I think it is unnecessarily too long.
Any idea what would be the effect on play if I take off 25mm off the handle ? |
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Viscaria Super ALC C-Pen Rasanter C48 |
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wanhao
Super Member Joined: 07/14/2014 Location: south east asia Status: Offline Points: 122 |
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Yr racket will feel head heavier...
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penholderxxx
Super Member Joined: 09/19/2016 Location: Asia Status: Offline Points: 451 |
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Have you watched how KTS turned his Jpen forehand ( right side ) into a backhand chop/block
* on his leftside when he was already out of position ? Of course, the longer handle is also meant to counter the head heaviness of the blade. Of course, I may also be wrong. penholderxxx * shakehand style
Edited by penholderxxx - 08/15/2017 at 3:59am |
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Iloveplayingtabletennis
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aeoliah
Premier Member Joined: 11/18/2005 Location: Indonesia Status: Offline Points: 3215 |
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I am thinking of the same thing, if I cut the handle, the balance will shift, but sometimes it is annoying to have protruding handle
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Viscaria Super ALC C-Pen Rasanter C48 |
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penholderxxx
Super Member Joined: 09/19/2016 Location: Asia Status: Offline Points: 451 |
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If you really intend to 'murder' any of your treasures, please let us know beforehand.
We will see if anyone of us can make you an offer. penholderxxx
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Iloveplayingtabletennis
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HuLimei
Super Member Joined: 07/10/2017 Location: BTY Factory Status: Offline Points: 276 |
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Head Heavy. Bad idea. The more weight to the handle, the better.
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zeroencore
Member Joined: 09/11/2010 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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Hey aeoliah, mind if I ask what is your playing style?
JPen (square type) is head heavy because of its center of gravity shift to blade head, JPen will benefit from this head heavy design when hitting it hard as the centrifugal force will certainly greater. However the trade-off is the blade is relative harder to control. BTY JPen is mainly "DRIVE" type, or what it say top-spin minded (e.g. looping). It has the cork grip of 92mm x 20mm, blade size of 163mm x 135mm (length x width) which originates from Kim Taek Soo playing style, deadly top-spin looping, accompanied with excellent footwork. The footwork is harder to achieve, I still reckon KTS has the best footwork among all famous JPenholders. If you search through the web, TSP Dynam has cork grip of 90mm x 20mm, and the blade shape is 165mm x 135mm (length x width). Nittaku Excellent-A JPen has cork grip of 95mm x 20mm, and the blade shape is 162mm x 130mm (length x width). Hence, I may summarize that: (1) Greater length will increase the stability of push & block, and more deadly stroke, however harder to control. (2) Greater width will increase the power of drive, topspin & underspin looping, however decrease in precision of ball placement. (3) JPen that is wider and longer will have shorter cork grip; JPen that is narrower and shorter will have longer cork grip. It is about balance. (4) "Round" type JPen will have greater control and stability, which is similar to CPen playing characteristics. Instead of following the trend, I truly hope you can find your own, unique playing style suit for you.
Edited by zeroencore - 08/15/2017 at 9:45am |
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aeoliah
Premier Member Joined: 11/18/2005 Location: Indonesia Status: Offline Points: 3215 |
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Thanks for your information, zeroencore, I play offensive, more as a hitter but I am still at beginner's level.
I have the Violin Round J-Pen as well as the Square (mostly I use the square type). From your list above, I have RSM ZLC, Chinese ULC, Nittaku Excellent A. |
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zeroencore
Member Joined: 09/11/2010 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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Understood. I am also, like to hit the ball more than spin the ball, I mean I like to stroke forehand topspin & underspin rather than looping for many rounds. I never use Acuda P2 before so cannot give any user experience on this rubber. I would recommend you Tibhar EL-P, Yasaka Rakza 7 soft, if you can control better, go for Xiom Omega IV Pro, or Tenergy 64. But rule of thumb is always hard blade combined with soft rubber, soft blade combined with hard rubber. And always use maximum thickness (2.1mm), unless you play reverse penhold. Single-ply wood is different from those ZLC, ULC, Tamca 5000, ALC, etc. Since you have mentioned you are beginner level, just stick to the one you like and work harder so that you can improve your techniques slow & steady . You will struggle on adaptation if you keep switching blades (ULC, ZLC, ALC, one-ply) all the time. There is no best and only blade ever made, you have no need to chase new technology or gimmick, the blade which suit you (make you play comfortable and confidently) is the best blade. |
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aeoliah
Premier Member Joined: 11/18/2005 Location: Indonesia Status: Offline Points: 3215 |
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Thanks for your advise, actually I am now struggling to use only one J-Pen and put all my other J-pens in the cupboard.
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Member of the Single Ply Hinoki Club
Viscaria Super ALC C-Pen Rasanter C48 |
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