Unsealing a sealed blade

Suggestions?

What sealer did you use?

nail-color remover can removed lacquer but it made the color fade a little.

Edited by Crowsfeather - 01/25/2017 at 10:31pm

I second the sandpaper recommendation as its safe.  You won't get all of the sealer off but you can thin it out.  On the blades that I've sealed I usually just use one or two layers, then sand it back down a bit.  What blade?

I'm going to suggest to use Naphta to dissolve most of the lacquer and then use fine sand paper to remove the remaining leftover.

The chemistry of what you can do and whether it will work depends entirely on what was used to seal the blade.  I have to emphasize this.  Jacek, if you see this thread, please chime in (Jacek is an organic chemist).

Sealers can get into the pores where they then react with each other to form a hard polymer.  Sometimes that polymer can be dissolved in certain solvents and sometimes it can't.  It those deposits are soluble, you can unseal the blade.

Some sealers are going to form covalent chemical bonds with the wood fibers (as well as with each other as they dry).  Those will be essentially permanent (or at least impossible to completely remove).  They cross-link the cellulose fibers that make up wood, making it harder and stronger.  In that case you either have to live with it, or remove the portion of the wood that is irreversibly attached to the sealer molecules (by sanding).  How much wood is bound up with the sealer (how much you have to sand) depends on how deep the sealing reagent permeated the wood.  So there is no one size fits all solution to this problem.  It is one reason why I don't recommend polyurethane, for example.  It is not going to come off entirely with a solvent.

I still recommend my hairspray technique.  It never produces this problem.  Revolution makes a sealer that is basically a lacquer.  It comes in water soluble solution and is easy to remove.  In fact, it is so easy to remove that after a relatively small number of glue jobs, you may need to reapply it.

Crowsfeather wrote: nail-color remover can removed lacquer but it made the color fade a little. put some remover on the cosmetic cotton sheet(that girl use) and rub the lacquer.

Hi all hope you enjoy your Christmas holidays!!

I have the same problem too
I want to remove the sealing or lacquer from a used blade that I purchased
You can see the colour difference from blade's face and wings ( which the lacquer wasn't applied )
Also the blade's face sounds harder when touching it in comparison with wings where the sound is smoother lighter
Should I unseal it ?
Unfortunately I don't know what the first buyer used for protection and I don't want to ruin my blade by sandpapering it it's an expensive blade

So any suggestions that really work ?

NextLevel wrote: Suggestions?

don't?

Generally acetone is the best, your average lacquer will come off with acetone and it does not leave a residue. Just put it on a cloth and remove just enough to fully expose the wood grain and wave dry.

EDIT: removing lacquer completely will generally jack up the logo.


Edited by zeropong - 12/26/2017 at 9:11pm

Will acetone leave the wood untouched?
To its first state at least 95 % ?

If the blade is in good condition. I would actually sell it and buy a new unsealed blade. There are just too many things that can go wrong when you’re trying to remove the sealant.

Thanks guys
I won't remove the sealing because it doesn't worth the risk
I don't think 1 layer of donic sealer changes playing characteristics so much
The blade plays fine
But in my next new blade I will not seal from the start