For the J-Penners : the length of a J-Pen handle

* on his leftside when he was already out of position ?

We will see if anyone of us can make you an offer. 

penholderxxx

JPen (square type) is head heavy because of its center of gravity shift to blade head, JPen will benefit from this head heavy design when hitting it hard as the centrifugal force will certainly greater. However the trade-off is the blade is relative harder to control. BTY JPen is mainly "DRIVE" type, or what it say top-spin minded (e.g. looping). It has the cork grip of 92mm x 20mm, blade size of 163mm x 135mm (length x width) which originates from Kim Taek Soo playing style, deadly top-spin looping, accompanied with excellent footwork. The footwork is harder to achieve, I still reckon KTS has the best footwork among all famous JPenholders.    

Understood. I am also, like to hit the ball more than spin the ball, I mean I like to stroke forehand topspin & underspin rather than looping for many rounds. I never use Acuda P2 before so cannot give any user experience on this rubber. I would recommend you Tibhar EL-P, Yasaka Rakza 7 soft, if you can control better, go for Xiom Omega IV Pro, or Tenergy 64. 

But rule of thumb is always hard blade combined with soft rubber, soft blade combined with hard rubber. And always use maximum thickness (2.1mm), unless you play reverse penhold. 

Single-ply wood is different from those ZLC, ULC, Tamca 5000, ALC, etc. Since you have mentioned you are beginner level, just stick to the one you like and work harder so that you can improve your techniques slow & steady . You will struggle on adaptation if you keep switching blades (ULC, ZLC, ALC, one-ply) all the time.

There is no best and only blade ever made, you have no need to chase new technology or gimmick, the blade which suit you (make you play comfortable and confidently) is the best blade.