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how do you seal your blade???

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 11:57am
Speed glues had something added as shown by the extra doming compared to rubber cement but what they added only costs a couple cents.

Table tennis sealer is obviously Not Poly repackaged because the speed glue would not have removed it if it was Poly. What ever it is, it is probably cheaper than Poly and very over priced.Smile


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote varghesep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 12:04pm
Originally posted by Thylacine Thylacine wrote:

 I have sealed 3 of my blades with XIOM I-sure (2-3 layers) but now I regret. They lost their feeling. Unhappy
 
What do you mean by feeling? Did the blade change the behavior?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 12:16pm
Xiom I must be VERY different than Poly. After sealing dozens of blades in pairs, one first so I could make comparisions, I can tell you, 3 coats of Poly will be hard to detect by feel on most "fast", Off- or faster blades.
It takes at least two coats of Poly to reduce the vibration on even an All blade to the point you can feel it. It will show the most on an DEF type blade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thylacine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by varghesep varghesep wrote:

Originally posted by Thylacine Thylacine wrote:

 I have sealed 3 of my blades with XIOM I-sure (2-3 layers) but now I regret. They lost their feeling. Unhappy
 
What do you mean by feeling? Did the blade change the behavior?
 
 Yes, they became faster and lost some control. I tried my Cypress S with exactly the same rubber (Sriver L) after I triple sealed it and my loops were not as spinny as they were before the seal. The most notable effect was that I couldn't  execute  fast and spinny  loops when I hit the ball under the height of the table and away from it, the ball either ended up in the net due to the lack of enough spin, or went long. Before that I could easily put the ball with fast and spinny loop wherever I wanted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rokphish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 2:08pm
i agree with hookshot. i couldn't feel the difference with 2-3 layers of i-sure either. now, i can't say for the rest of them who noticed the difference, but, for Peter... The man has super sensitive hands, he told me he could feel the weight difference between 1 layer of glue vs 2 layers of glue. so for him to say he noticed the difference with 2 layers of sealer.... it's not too far fetch for him...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 3:05pm
Hi Rok,
     Yea, I am not saying I don't beleive him, I am curious if the stuff he used is that much different than Poly.  I still don't see why anybody uses anything else. Poly is immune to the glues, water proof and the toughest varnish there is and costs less than the table tennis specific sealers. It drys thin and clear.  ( .0015 inch per layer )Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kelvinyoong Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 6:27pm
Hi Hookshot,

I wouldn't mind to try out Poly if i can get it.

What type or brand are you using so that i can check out the hardware store if they have it?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 6:56pm
I use Minwax Quick Dry Poly. You can get it in a spray can or regular can. I use the spray.
Tommyzai likes Verithane brand. (also Quick dry) He uses Water based Verithane. He gets the can and wipes it on.  Once dry, it is totally water proof.
You can get water based Poly also.
The disadvantage to water based sealers, They "Might" raise the grain on some woods. Then you would have to sand and coat again. Mineral based Poly or Verithane will NOT raise the grain. I don't know anybody that has sealed more blades than Tommy and I. There probably is but I don't know them.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rokphish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 10:30pm
Originally posted by Hookshot Hookshot wrote:

Hi Rok,
     Yea, I am not saying I don't beleive him, I am curious if the stuff he used is that much different than Poly.  I still don't see why anybody uses anything else. Poly is immune to the glues, water proof and the toughest varnish there is and costs less than the table tennis specific sealers. It drys thin and clear.  ( .0015 inch per layer )Smile


You are nice hookshot... I explicitly say I don't believe Peter when he said he could tell the difference in weight between 1 layer of glue and 2 layers of glue... so I'm skeptical about him telling the difference between 2 layers of sealer (he used donic's). Anyway...

The reason I'm using i-sure instead of poly.... I got it for free... And one of the big reason is that it smells nice and didn't feel yucky when in contact with my hands. Yes a can of spray poly is cheaper than the small bottle of i-sure. I bought the poly spray can before I got the i-sure but so far I've only used the poly on 1 real blade and 1 lead/weight blade.

I've sealed most of my blades 2-3 layers and the i-sure still has quite a bit left over. The next time I use the poly I will have to use mask and rubber glove...




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote t3h anarchist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/02/2008 at 11:50pm
you can use a lot of stuff
if you dont care about voc: super glue is acutally really good, joola varnish works exccelent

voc free: andro free seal is very nice, seals nicely plus gives your paddle a cool glossy look
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote charlesj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/03/2008 at 7:13am
I wonder how come blade manufacturers dont seal the blades for us... wont it be better that way?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cole_ely Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/03/2008 at 9:34am
I wipe minwax poly on there as thinly as I can. Just barely dampen the blade.  You shoudlnt' be able to see it on there. It really can't be too thin, as long as the blade is uniformly dampened.  I haven't had a splintering complaint in years and the blades feel exactly the same.
 
Hairspray is also a good and non permanent choice, although I guess you probably need to apply it periodically.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7plywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/03/2008 at 9:42am
Originally posted by charlesj charlesj wrote:

I wonder how come blade manufacturers dont seal the blades for us... wont it be better that way?
Some do. Some Avalox blades come sealed from the factory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/13/2008 at 11:45pm
Here's a picture after I remove Donic water base sealer with speed glue.
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 1:11am
YIKES!!!!
My Triple Seal as per Chinese National Team Specifications will not come off . . . I promise you that!! Hey, at least the glue was nice enough to spare your logo!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 1:14am
Originally posted by Asaomi Asaomi wrote:

hairspray


Sorry bro,
No offense, but there's no sense using hairspray unless you are trapped in a igloo and your dog-sled won't make the journey to a hardware store. I've tried hairspray on more than a dozen blades. I wanted it to work desperately. It was better than nothing, but what's the point? It comes off with water, which makes is USELESS with water-based glues. Remember, it's called, HAIRspray.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 1:56am
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

YIKES!!!!
My Triple Seal as per Chinese National Team Specifications will not come off . . . I promise you that!! Hey, at least the glue was nice enough to spare your logo!
 
LOL I regret that I sealed my Acoustic since the feel become harder and dwell time shorter. Luckly the water base sealer from donic come off. I don't want to remove the seal near the logo, otherwise the speed glue will ruin the logo Wink.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tdragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 2:04am
Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

 
LOL I regret that I sealed my Acoustic since the feel become harder and dwell time shorter. Luckly the water base sealer from donic come off. I don't want to remove the seal near the logo, otherwise the speed glue will ruin the logo Wink.
I am agree. My sealed Acoustic lost its feeling. I just feel as dead wood Cry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 2:13am
If the glue will remove the sealer, what is it sealed against? Bugs?
Use a thin coat of Polu U and it will not change the blade and glue will not touch it. Not water based or speed glue.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 2:32am
Originally posted by Hookshot Hookshot wrote:

If the glue will remove the sealer, what is it sealed against? Bugs?
Use a thin coat of Polu U and it will not change the blade and glue will not touch it. Not water based or speed glue.Smile
 
I removed the waterbased sealer using local made speed glue which contains a lot of gasoline. I took me a lot of effort to remove the seal. I use soft cloth, pouring a few drops of SG and start rubbing. I suffer from swollen thumb because it's hot when rubbing it Big%20smile
 
Some of the blades I use poly, but it smells awfull but strong.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 2:35am
Originally posted by tdragon tdragon wrote:

Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

 
LOL I regret that I sealed my Acoustic since the feel become harder and dwell time shorter. Luckly the water base sealer from donic come off. I don't want to remove the seal near the logo, otherwise the speed glue will ruin the logo Wink.
I am agree. My sealed Acoustic lost its feeling. I just feel as dead wood Cry
 
What do you use for sealing your blade? Why don't you try gasoline mixed with speed glue? you can wipe/rub it with cloth until it become hot. The seal may come off.
Luckily the feeling of my acoustic goes back normal Tongue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 2:41am
Some of the new polys do not smell. Some of them you have to use outdoors. Minwax is not bad. The water based polys do not smell either. At least not very strong.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rokphish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 3:23am
Originally posted by Hookshot Hookshot wrote:

Some of the new polys do not smell.


How to tell the new ones from the old ones? I'm going to used up my xiom i-sure pretty soon and will be looking for alternatives. I still have one barely used can of polyu spray but if there's something less smelly, I'm all ears..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 5:07am
I am just too confused to even try. What will work, what won't, what will change the feel of my blade, what won't, I am just confused.
So far I have had no issues with splintering with my Butterfly blades. Not sure about my new acquisitions, a 729 and a YinHe, will find out when I change the rubbers. The Yinhe is sealed by Cole though so should be ok.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Totoro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 7:54am
Would you ever need to remove the sealant?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rokphish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 12:45pm
You would if like Peter79 you notice substantial difference in your blade's characteristics that you couldn't live with.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 1:04pm
Here's one problem non-sealers will encounter . . . water-based glues will soak into the unprotected top ply and ruin your blade. Some blades are more forgiving; some are not. YOU MUST SEAL SOME BLADES, i.e. most Stigas, Avalox, Hallmark, etc. You can roll the dice and try to get away with not sealing Violins, Acoustics, and Hinokis, but when your label comes off or worse, splinters pull up, or the blade turns to a mushy goo . . . I'll be right here to sell you one of my sealed blades.

BTW, you don't have to Triple Seal like me or go glassy like Hookshot and THEMANFZ1, but you MUST seal enough to bind the top plies or you will be sorry.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 1:06pm
Varathane/Waterbased/Satin has NEVER let me down. The only thing I've found that removes that stuff is sandpaper or acetone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 8:50pm
Originally posted by rokphish rokphish wrote:

You would if like Peter79 you notice substantial difference in your blade's characteristics that you couldn't live with.....
 
I have sealed My kokutaku 3008, Stiga Hybrid Wood, H-king 06, Sword 10 Aniversary.
I don't feel too much different before and after sealing it.
But my Acoustic feeling really change from medium soft to a bit hard feel. Dwell time become much shorter.
The Kokutaku 1 Ply I even don't noticed any diff at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2008 at 8:59pm
Many members on this post are claiming a big difference in the "feel" of the Acoustic when sealed. tdragon told me this a while back. As a result, the last Acoustic I owned was lightly sealed instead of my world famous Triple Sealed as per Chinese Specs. It's hard to argue with the overwhelming reports about the Acoustic; yet, why is there such a big difference with this blade and not others. I can easily argue that there is almost no difference with most blades, and if there is a difference, it is often better performance due to factors I've explained on several other posts. What's the deal with the Acoustic? My first thought is . . . the flex and feel of this blade are dependent upon the sensitive top ply/fibers. Any other thoughts? And, if this is the case, what are Acoustic owners supposed to do to protect their blade? Water-based glues will destroy an unsealed blade!!
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