Light Blade suggestion

perhaps you would be interested in a nittaku tenaly carbon really nice feel great weight and good with european rubbers. i have one if you would like to trade or buy.

If you don't want any composite layers (i.e. arylate and/or carbon) then perhaps you might want to think about getting an all wood blade made to your weight, shape and balance specifications by Palatinus (oldstiga). The quality of their blades is first rate and I can recommend them without hesitation or reservation.

I would give the Yasaka Gatien Extra and Samsonov Alpha a try. They are both in decathlon and pretty cheap as well. Stiga Offensive Wood (non wrb) is another very good option.Two days ago I played few shots with it (T64) and was impressed by the performance. Long ago I use to have one myself and it was a perfect match with Chinese rubbers(I see u play with such)

A nice blade that seems to fit in that category is the Donic Dima Sawtec. IIRC, limba plies, 80gr, ALL+, great handle, nice flex, good dwell. I had one for a couple of years before I wanted to try a faster blade.

Also, I wonder if Ian Worz could whip up something that would work.

Rich215 wrote: ... some of the Palio rubbers are slightly medium heavy�...

Two Palio Biotech rubber sheets? There's the real weight/"table-tennis elbow" problem.

I would check out the Galaxy T-11, at about 73 grams, a Powerful light blade, ( 28 dollars )For more control,check out TSP Astron Red-at 85 grams with wonderful handle,plus good power, (38 dollars ) 5 grams extra is 0.17 oz. less than a 1/4 oz. over 80 grams. 

"Hi,
I am looking for advices or suggestions from blade experts �

I made lots of trials, but I couldn�t find what I am looking for. But now I think ( I hope ) I precisely know what I need.

Blade specifications:
Around 80gr, less is much better, High flex or mid Flex (not stiff), High throw ( or medium high), handle heavy ( no hollow handle), soft outer veneer ( Limba? ), not bouncy, long dwell time, speed OFF- ( up to OFF, but not speed demon ), thickness less than 6mm."

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The message or main requirement is lighter blades.

This appears to be a good spec for custom blades.

Most of the blades I made are below 70g, most in range of 55-65g. Thinnest below 5mm and thickest at 11mm.

Earlier models are highly flexible, with horizontal wood grain structure combined with Unilateral fibric cloth, say, fibre glass/ULC hybrid, but tends to make less flex blades recently, as players need to adapt to new styles to play flex blades. Lots more dwelling time, if the blade is flexible. There is also appreciable catapult effect with flex blades if played properly.

OFF- is a bit slow as I used mostly ZF, ZLC recently?
Perhaps,Vectran/carbon may be a bit slower combined with softer veneer layers.

Thought Hinoki is soft but I found Tasmanian Huon Pine is equally soft with good grains. Sourced a few sq meters recently. However, I worked on a blade with 1mm thick Tasmanian King Billy Pine to find it even softer.

However, King Pine Pine is expensive, (only from dead trees in river beds, cannot be cut live) and hard to find in quarter cut with straight grains. I have to try more to confirm the playing characteristic of this soft wood.

It is covering a blade I am making, Vectran/Carbon on one side, ZL on another side. Guess it is not a slow OFF- blade.
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So, King Billy, GF/ULC, Balsa core, GF/ULC, King Billy may be suitable construction as GF/ULC is a gear slower.
THickness could be 5mm to 6mm or more.
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Actually, I sold handshake blade to an A grade player a few months, ago, he was looking for a lightest, thinnest and fastest blades he could use.

- limba veneer
- thin carbon layer 98g / sq meter
- 3.5mm long grain balsa
- thin carbon layer
- limba

It is 5.0mm I think, 52g, but is OFF at least. Quite flexible. The GF/ULC is a bit slower.
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Most of the blades in the market are not quite flexible by just looking at the grains on outer veneer layers. The grains running from top to bottom. This makes the blades stiffer.

Very hard to see blades with veneer with wood grains from side to side, i,e Sword combi cpen on one side. Some inner wood layers may have grains running from side to side to reinforce the other layers with top to bottom grains.
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