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    Posted: 10/15/2010 at 9:05pm
Do you have a special technique when you cut a new sheet ?  

Edited by Pioneer - 10/15/2010 at 10:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 12:26am
I use a type of scissors (very sharp) designed for cutting carpet pads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonRShaver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 2:03am
I cut about 20-30 rubbers a week for the store (www.ttxonline.com) and I use a Killerspin cutting board, a #4 scalpel with a long thin blade with rounded tip (#35 or something like that).  The trick to getting a fast, clean cut is to start on one end with the blade about 30-40 degrees to the cutting board and trying to 'bend' the knife around the wood of the blade.  Don't press too hard, expect to take 2 to 5 laps around it. 

I should make a video.  I know some people use scalpels that look like exact-o knifes (with a point), but I find that I only get 4-5 cuts before it is a throw away, sometimes less.  With the method above, a single blade lasts 30+ cuts.  

Also, Chinese rubbers can be VERY annoying to cut (729 Super FX and the old Galaxy Mercury for example), but ones like Yasaka Pryde are easy.  

I have tried 4 types of scissors, but never had any luck getting it perfect.  It ends up looking like you cut it yourself.  With the scalpel, it looks like it came out of the package that way. 

Also, one last tip, NEVER try to 'clean up' the edges when you make a mistake.  You will just make it worse. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 4:49am

Originally posted by JasonRShaver JasonRShaver wrote:

I cut about 20-30 rubbers a week for the store (www.ttxonline.com) and I use a Killerspin cutting board, a #4 scalpel with a long thin blade with rounded tip (#35 or something like that).  The trick to getting a fast, clean cut is to start on one end with the blade about 30-40 degrees to the cutting board and trying to 'bend' the knife around the wood of the blade.  Don't press too hard, expect to take 2 to 5 laps around it. 

I should make a video.  I know some people use scalpels that look like exact-o knifes (with a point), but I find that I only get 4-5 cuts before it is a throw away, sometimes less.  With the method above, a single blade lasts 30+ cuts.  

Also, Chinese rubbers can be VERY annoying to cut (729 Super FX and the old Galaxy Mercury for example), but ones like Yasaka Pryde are easy.  

I have tried 4 types of scissors, but never had any luck getting it perfect.  It ends up looking like you cut it yourself.  With the scalpel, it looks like it came out of the package that way. 

Also, one last tip, NEVER try to 'clean up' the edges when you make a mistake.  You will just make it worse. 
Wow Thank you JasonRShaver very helpful tips indeed, specially the last one, I can tell Confused 
you should make a video about that really will be a great job but let me know about it Wink
I have a friend who uses a cutter skillfully, actually he has cut my Yasaka GPS and it was a masterpiece, but I use scissors only and wanna develop another technique like scalpel ...
But I have got you two questions:
How to trim a rubber on another blade which is not originally cut for, is it better to cut a rubber precisely or just leave a little bit margin 2mm for example? 


Edited by Pioneer - 10/16/2010 at 8:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sallom89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 5:15am
I've made a topic and a vid about it here: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37311&PN=1#459207
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 8:38am
Originally posted by Sallom89 Sallom89 wrote:

I've made a topic and a vid about it here: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37311&PN=1#459207
thanx a lot
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonRShaver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by Pioneer Pioneer wrote:

How to trim a rubber on another blade which is not originally cut for, is it better to cut a rubber precisely or just leave a little bit margin 2mm for example? 

If you have more than 4mm to work with, it should be easy, less than 2mm and you just have to expect it will not be perfect.  If the profile is one where part of it is less than 2mm and part is greater, just expect the transition point may look a little rough.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dragon kid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 2:30pm
Originally posted by JasonRShaver JasonRShaver wrote:

Originally posted by Pioneer Pioneer wrote:

How to trim a rubber on another blade which is not originally cut for, is it better to cut a rubber precisely or just leave a little bit margin 2mm for example? 
If you have more than 4mm to work with, it should be easy, less than 2mm and you just have to expect it will not be perfect.  If the profile is one where part of it is less than 2mm and part is greater, just expect the transition point may look a little rough.  
I just did that to two of my rubbers (H3 and Hexer), to make it fit my TBS (originally cut on my HK 655), actually Sallom89 technique on his vid will be perfect for that. Use sharp blade, don't press too hard at first, try to make a line with your first cut. then repeat cutting with the same movement several times.. At first I thought it will be hard, but actually it's very easy, I got a pretty neat cut, even more neat than the original cut.. LOL ..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sallom89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 3:44pm
Originally posted by Pioneer Pioneer wrote:

Originally posted by Sallom89 Sallom89 wrote:

I've made a topic and a vid about it here: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37311&PN=1#459207
thanx a lot

You r welcomed !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by dragon kid dragon kid wrote:

Originally posted by JasonRShaver JasonRShaver wrote:

Originally posted by Pioneer Pioneer wrote:

How to trim a rubber on another blade which is not originally cut for, is it better to cut a rubber precisely or just leave a little bit margin 2mm for example? 
If you have more than 4mm to work with, it should be easy, less than 2mm and you just have to expect it will not be perfect.  If the profile is one where part of it is less than 2mm and part is greater, just expect the transition point may look a little rough.  
I just did that to two of my rubbers (H3 and Hexer), to make it fit my TBS (originally cut on my HK 655), actually Sallom89 technique on his vid will be perfect for that. Use sharp blade, don't press too hard at first, try to make a line with your first cut. then repeat cutting with the same movement several times.. At first I thought it will be hard, but actually it's very easy, I got a pretty neat cut, even more neat than the original cut.. LOL ..
Congrats, you've got a hand of a surgeon Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phot0n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 9:46pm
I completely agree with JasonRShaver. Maybe his last name should be "Cutter" or "Trimmer" instead :)

I can get rubbers to look nearly as good as with a blade, and rounded blades last longer and seem better suited for the multiple laps you need to do.

Yeah, some of the Chinese rubbers are really hard to cut. With scissors its even worse. It's enough that the tips will bend apart and not cut at all.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2010 at 10:23pm
you know it's really bothering me when I re-glue the rubber, usually miss putting the rubber precisely, only by fraction from here or there Confused  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote raphyelrosby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2010 at 5:09pm
I usually just get some sharp scissors and voila, but I don't really care if it looks good, just never bothered to worry about it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phot0n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2010 at 2:59am
I'm a bit of a perfectionist... I can deal with some imperfections on my rubber trim... but not re-gluing my rubber back on perfectly is like an OCD nightmare for me.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2010 at 11:04am
Originally posted by JasonRShaver JasonRShaver wrote:

Originally posted by Pioneer Pioneer wrote:

How to trim a rubber on another blade which is not originally cut for, is it better to cut a rubber precisely or just leave a little bit margin 2mm for example? 

If you have more than 4mm to work with, it should be easy, less than 2mm and you just have to expect it will not be perfect.  If the profile is one where part of it is less than 2mm and part is greater, just expect the transition point may look a little rough.  

If the margin is too small says 1mm, then it is hard to trim.  It's better that you trace it first, cut then re-glue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmerkel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2010 at 11:33am
I heard from a member who cuts the rubbers roughly to shape at first and then uses (very carefully) a stationary belt sander to trim off the overhang.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2010 at 5:32pm
Originally posted by mmerkel mmerkel wrote:

I heard from a member who cuts the rubbers roughly to shape at first and then uses (very carefully) a stationary belt sander to trim off the overhang.
very weird technique indeed, and have you tried that yourself ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmerkel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2010 at 8:28pm
I have tried to clean up a bad cut with a random orbital sander, but there was so much sponge dust and rubber pieces flying about that I needed a change of clothes afterwards. But the rubber edge looked really nice. Might work better with the right equipment tho.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EZRO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2010 at 9:29pm
All I use is a Knife Cutter, I got from a local bookstore.  I've been using it for more than 10 years :D  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/19/2010 at 12:41am
Originally posted by Phot0n Phot0n wrote:

I'm a bit of a perfectionist... I can deal with some imperfections on my rubber trim... but not re-gluing my rubber back on perfectly is like an OCD nightmare for me.


Yep!

It was so bad for a while that I would wind up using extra coats of rubber cement on the blade between ripping and resetting to fix a 1mm overhang or underhang issue.

Who am I kidding, I still do that. Although with water glue, it's like a half hour mistake instead of a 5 minute fix.

And great video to Sallom!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thaidog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/19/2010 at 1:02am
I use the killerspin cutting board with the exacto like blades sold at PP. Do not use exacto brand blades is the best advice I can give... their edges are not sharp enough and do not give a clean cut. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sallom89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/19/2010 at 2:35am
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

 
And great video to Sallom!

Thanks! my thread is lost by now lol LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/19/2010 at 2:49pm
Originally posted by mmerkel mmerkel wrote:

I have tried to clean up a bad cut with a random orbital sander, but there was so much sponge dust and rubber pieces flying about that I needed a change of clothes afterwards. But the rubber edge looked really nice. Might work better with the right equipment tho.
Yeah it's really a messy thing ... but does this method apply to soft rubbers ?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonRShaver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2010 at 3:39pm
Originally posted by Phot0n Phot0n wrote:

I completely agree with JasonRShaver. Maybe his last name should be "Cutter" or "Trimmer" instead :)

You know, I first tried to do it with a Mach 3...  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmerkel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2010 at 3:59pm
Originally posted by Pioneer Pioneer wrote:

Originally posted by mmerkel mmerkel wrote:

I have tried to clean up a bad cut with a random orbital sander, but there was so much sponge dust and rubber pieces flying about that I needed a change of clothes afterwards. But the rubber edge looked really nice. Might work better with the right equipment tho.
Yeah it's really a messy thing ... but does this method apply to soft rubbers ?  

This works (except for the mess) with any type of rubber I have tried...mostly euro/jap soft sponge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phot0n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/22/2010 at 10:06pm
Ok, I'm just gunna throw it out there... has anyone every tried using a soldering iron or some type of heated blade to melt the rubber? It seems like it would leave a smooth cut, but it also could cause scorch marks on your rubber or even wood. And maybe a few harmful gasses... but... has it been done? Maybe after a cut to smooth it out? Flame away ;)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/23/2010 at 10:30am
Originally posted by Phot0n Phot0n wrote:

Ok, I'm just gunna throw it out there... has anyone every tried using a soldering iron or some type of heated blade to melt the rubber? It seems like it would leave a smooth cut, but it also could cause scorch marks on your rubber or even wood. And maybe a few harmful gasses... but... has it been done? Maybe after a cut to smooth it out? Flame away ;)
Never heard something like that, and I think it could sabotage the rubber and make a really nasty smell as we're dealing here with rubber not a plastic thing ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wkm1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/23/2010 at 7:22pm
Quote:...I heard from a member who cuts the rubbers roughly to shape at first and then uses (very carefully) a stationary belt sander to trim off the overhang.....
 
 
That was possibly meTongue .
Never had a problem, smooth edges only have to blow off aftwerwards the fine rubber dust.
And do it longitudal, not across the Blade.
Works on European, Japenese and Chines rubber.
 
Since my main hobby is Modelairplanes I have all the other tolls mentioned her in this tread and more ( eg Special scissors for kevlar fibre), but the stationary beltsander delivers the cleanest cut.
 
 
 
Cheers
T


Edited by wkm1 - 10/23/2010 at 7:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pioneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/24/2010 at 9:38am
Originally posted by wkm1 wkm1 wrote:

Quote:...I heard from a member who cuts the rubbers roughly to shape at first and then uses (very carefully) a stationary belt sander to trim off the overhang.....
 
 
That was possibly meTongue .
Never had a problem, smooth edges only have to blow off aftwerwards the fine rubber dust.
And do it longitudal, not across the Blade.
Works on European, Japenese and Chines rubber.
 
Since my main hobby is Modelairplanes I have all the other tolls mentioned her in this tread and more ( eg Special scissors for kevlar fibre), but the stationary beltsander delivers the cleanest cut.
 
 
 
Cheers
T
Have you tried Phot0n's mentioned method ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wkm1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/24/2010 at 11:28am
Yes, I have 3 different soldering irons and used some rubber cut off pieces for a trial.
 
1. the smell is bad
2 the cut wasn't cleaner sharper as with the band  grinder.
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