Joola Rosskopf Emotion - Review

I agree this shouldn't affect play much (other than my own fear of hitting the table anywhere near those parts to damage the blade). That said, for the price I paid I do expect the shop to meet an acceptable standard. I can understand if a mistake was made, as Andy suggested, but what I can't understand is the "oh well" mentality to let the mistake slide onto the customer. Basically, if I were assembling a paddle for a customer and that happened, you bet that I'd re-do it. I just think it's the right thing to do over assuming the customer also won't care. It seems I'm more picky about my paddles than some of you here , but I think it's fair to expect something to be done right when purchased brand new from a shop. 

Does this blade feel lighter than it actually is? I requested a blade between 80-85g, the box I got is stickered with the number 67, which I hope isn't the weight. It does feel light just swinging, but the headsize is smaller than what I typically use and the rubbers on mine are even smaller than the blade face so it might just be more headlight than what I'm used to.

I've been refraining from mentioning the shop out of respect until the situation is resolved, but I did NOT buy this from timtts. 

Yep, I can't speak for Timtts, but from this thread it sounds like everyone got the order they wanted. 

Back to the blade: does yours feel lighter compared to a blade of similar weight? Most of the blades I've used in the past have been on the more head heavy side, so I'm not really familiar with what head light blades feel like 

That could actually be one of the reasons of its success: people do not feel the setup much head heavy even when they have 50+gr on both sides; many people do not like anything that grabs their attention without making them play any better and head heavy would do that for them; another possibility is that they want head heavy like before the tensor era which is about the same than a JRE + 2 max tensors today; just speculating here.

I have glued and removed rubbers from my JRE.

I use WBG (Copydex) and find that the Hinoki does not require sealing as its fibres are quite densely packed. The surface is very smooth and rubbers peel away without problem.

Note that this is not true with Koto and Limba, especially for the slower blades (e.g. appelgreen senso) where sealing is compulsory if you want the blade to remain in good condition.

it's a no-brainer to me

oh well

 

Maybe that's why your blade played badly...

 

I don't know - I can think of some pretty weird ways.

 

I cut first, glue later.  I find it easier to get a nice smooth cut with scissors on the rubber first.  I'm a lot faster this way too - takes me ages to cut cleanly if the rubber is already on the blade.  Also, since the water-based glue came in, if I cut around the blade then the very edge of the rubber comes away slightly, and it's hard to just stick it down again.  With old glue this wasn't a problem because it stayed slightly tacky for ages.

 

I'm not saying it's the best way, but it's not a bad way either.

 

I'm just a WBG hipster.  I cut first because it's cool, yo.

yep, the best of both worlds

I have never tried to put a single very thin coat though, but anything that hardens has to make the outer ply behave differently, and I want my Hinoki / Limba to be as soft as they are supposed to.

With Copydex and dense wood like Hinoki (or Koto), I have not had a splintering problem yet (/touches wood)