Different Glues: Pro's and Cons

asifgunz wrote: Im Trying to establish a good source for it.

I know with tearmender , it dries in about 1 minute ish.
The second layer is actually easier than you think. It doesnt penetrate the first layer so quick , so you have more time to work.

If you have a plastic old debit or credit card, it works best for spreading. Work quick. Start from bottom. Pour. Close. Spread
You dont have to get every mm of the sponge. But try to get an even coat. Wait till its dry to touch. Im guessing the dry time would be pretty similar. Around 4 minutes.

Then second layer on sponge. Again. From bottom up.
I do this for both cut and uncut rubbers.

Btw clean the glue from the credit card after each layer. Or else it will dry and stick to the sponge. That does cause lunps.

Same story with blade. One layer is adequate.

Theres a video by wturber for gluing with tear mender. Maybe you can get an idea of finezip from there.

Or perhaps lok for a finezip application video.

COMBO GLUING IS THE BEST.


http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=72748&PID=891611&title=combo-gluing-is-the-best-happy#891611

Edited by DreiZ - 10/18/2015 at 10:34pm

I didn't find Finezip easy to use.  These days I am using Butterfly Free Chack II.  It gives good results for me. 

DreiZ wrote: unstopabl3 wrote: MLfan wrote: How's Revolution no. 3 compared to finezip? I've been using finezip for so long I can't remember how the other glues play like... how many layers do you need for revolution? I have just glued rubbers on a brand new blade for the first time with Finezip. The glue dried damn fast, literally in seconds, I couldn't even apply the sponge on the blade without having the glue dry up on me and creating lumps (the ones when you try to remove dried glue). I had to remove the glue three times on each side before I was able to spread the glue evenly and accurately as I desired. I couldn't dare to apply a second on the blade or the rubbers from the fear of lumping the previous layer. Maybe this was due to my blade being sealed? But strangely never had such a problem with Butterfly Free Chak, which is so easy to apply and doesn't clump or dry so damn fast. And after using the blade for about 1 week, the rubbers have seemed to come off from the top edges, indicating not strong bond or not adequate spread of glue. Anybody experience this and any ideas how to fix this problem? Hey, sorta like my experience. ^

Yes exactly like my experience, my rubbers were Adidas P7 and Yasaka Rakza 7 soft, the Adidas rubber had a weak bond near the edges as the rubber is coming off now

Baal wrote: I didn't find Finezip easy to use.  These days I am using Butterfly Free Chack II.  It gives good results for me.

Exactly, I'm not liking finezip either but since I've spent quite a lot on it I'll have to finish it.

Would you say Free Chack II is better or worse than Free Chack 1??? Is it not specifically for Tenergy rubbers?

Baal wrote: I think FC II is better than FC because I get a more even layer of glue.  I use Tenergy rubbers.  I was not aware that FC II was made specifically for Tenergy.  If it is, well all I can say is they definitely got it right.  It ought to work just as well for other thick pored rubbers, like Evolution, etc.

Since you've experienced playing with different glues, do you think any of these WBG glues improve the playing characteristics of the rubbers? I've also heard rumors that applying multiple layers of finezip on the sponge, make the rubbers faster/spinnier, but I am not at a high level to see such difference. What's your say?

A few months ago I started using a glue sheet and today I moved the original set of rubbers to another blade that I use on my robot.  I was surprised to see that sponges on both sides of my playing blade appeared new it would have been difficult to visual guess the difference between new and used on the sponge side other then the used one's were cut. My only take on it was that glues do impact the sponge whether they impact the  life of the sponge  I have no idea.  

lineup32 wrote: A few months ago I started using a glue sheet and today I moved the original set of rubbers to another blade that I use on my robot.  I was surprised to see that sponges on both sides of my playing blade appeared new it would have been difficult to visual guess the difference between new and used on the sponge side other then the used one's were cut. My only take on it was that glues do impact the sponge whether they impact the  life of the sponge  I have no idea.

Which glue sheet did you try? I've read few good reviews on the Tibhar Duo glue sheet.

Edited by DreiZ - 10/19/2015 at 4:39pm

Baal wrote: In my opinion WBG is just for sticking the rubber to the blade.  I haven't noticed that one glue results in overwhelmingly better playing properties than another (although I do notice differences in sticking around the outer margins of the blade and how flat the topsheet looks after gluing).  I do notice it takes about 3 days before I like the feel but that seems to be true for all of them.  Revolution claims that it adds something to the way the rubber plays.  I really couldn't feel anything like that throughout the one bottle of the stuff that I had.  If it has any effect, it is subtle.  One good thing about Revolution is that it really comes very clean off the sponge, so if you reglue rubbers or switch rubbers from one blade to another, it is a good choice.  I don't generally do that, and you really do need to do multiple layers as they recommend.  I am just too impatient for that.  That also means I can't really advise you on whether you can try some other glue after initially gluing with Finezip.  I've never tried it (but I would personally be surprised if it matters).

So this is what I did last night.

Removed the rubber from the blade, came off easily and was surprised to see no glue residue on the blade at all. There was glue on the sponge but it was not THAT sticky, strange. Removed the glue from the top half of the rubber first (as I was lazy and didn't want to remove it all) from where the rubber had started to come off the blade. Some small chunks of the sponge did come off with the glue and left small holes in the sponge. Re-applied one coat of Finzezip on the blade and two coats on the rubber, after drying for 5-10 mins attached the rubber back on the blade. And boy was I wrong to do this, could see two different layers on the face of the rubber due to different thickness of glue layers.

Removed rubber from blade, this time the glue came of fairly easily and quickly in one go from the sponge without ripping off the sponge, applied one layer and let it dry and applied another and let it dry, then stuck the rubber back. Voila, played perfectly today :P

Although finezip is hard to apply and it dries way too fast, I liked how I could take it off from the sponge and blade without leaving a residue and no apparent deformation of the sponge at all as the glue didn't seep into ht sponge at all. Just make sure you have two layers on the sponge otherwise it will rip small bits from the sponge when you remove it.

Edited by DreiZ - 10/20/2015 at 9:08pm

patrickhrdlicka wrote: I have tried the combo glue approach and am not impressed. The paddle palace glue seems to do the trick. And rubber cement is a pain to work with (You have to apply it on one-third of the blade at a time otherwise it dries up before your eyes. I am to try diluting it with some hexane, heptane or pertroleum ether.

Can anyone that tried Glue Sheets list pros and cons of them? Please mention the brand you tried. I'm interested in trying them for my next change of rubbers. Thanks!

Edited by DreiZ - 10/21/2015 at 10:30pm