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Which Long Pips Rubber ?

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    Posted: 08/17/2018 at 5:59pm
How do you contact an agent to get the cured version via Taobao?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/17/2018 at 2:11am
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

thx for the update. Did your friend try the "light cured" version of 338D-1?
The friend that switch to 338D-1 this week is not using the light cured version.  He's only tried the light cured version once or twice in play, just enough to feel the difference.  Having played against both versions (different players), the difference is huge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUCKYLOOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/16/2018 at 10:29pm
Originally posted by ChichoFicho ChichoFicho wrote:

For close to the table block/attack style Grass D.tecs OX is by far the best. It was recommended to me by Nurdin Saparbaev, a master from Kyrgyzstan. For chopping - Curl P-H is the most disturbing.


At Revspin.net a rubber review website Globe 979 Cost $9 is rated slightly higher than Grass DTecS.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChichoFicho Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/16/2018 at 3:35pm
For close to the table block/attack style Grass D.tecs OX is by far the best. It was recommended to me by Nurdin Saparbaev, a master from Kyrgyzstan. For chopping - Curl P-H is the most disturbing.

Edited by ChichoFicho - 08/16/2018 at 3:35pm
Darker Speed 70

Hammond FA Speed

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/16/2018 at 11:48am
Played cheap LP rubbers for years, now I am trying an expensive one.
Just ordered a sheet of Tibhar Grass D.TecS from TableTennisStore.us.
Don't think it will do any good to my rating. (Bye bye 1700, hello 1600. Already.)

It is the skill that counts. (Not the rubber.)
Still remember a penhold player from CA visiting our club.
He used a cheap LP rubber, CK531A - and beat the daylight out of me.

Hope this Tibhar Grass D.TecS can keep me at 1600 rather than seeing 1500.
(Age has caught up on me finally. I guess.)
==========
Update:  The penhold player who used a cheap rubber (CK531A) and beat me bad -
              his name is Jeff Xiao. I have no idea which club he plays in California.


Edited by skip3119 - 08/16/2018 at 11:55am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/16/2018 at 11:06am
thx for the update. Did your friend try the "light cured" version of 338D-1?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/15/2018 at 2:32am
Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

I use LP, Dawei 388D-1.

During hitting back-and-forth in a game, I lost lots of points when the guy sent me an under-spin ball.
LP is supposed to be less sensitive to spin but not INSENSITVE, lots of my returns go right into the net.

One of my clubmates who chops and blocks with LP recently switched to Dawai Magic Kingdom 388D-1.  It seems to the rest of us that his game picked up about a hundred rating points.  Chops and blocks both seem to have much stronger spin reversal than before and his ability to punch with it is much more dangerous.  The pips seem very slick, like in the old days when true slick LP rubbers were still legal.  It seems like a very potent rubber.

And the packaging (which is mostly in Chinese) has an emblem that says "Light curing certification".  What's that?
Last March I posted several times about a clubmate of mine who had recently switched to the light treated version of Dawei 338D-1.  I wanted to follow up with some additional information.

First, let me review what I was talking about in March.  Dawei has a LP rubber that is ITTF approved called the 338D-1.  The also have a second version that is still called 338D-1, but on the wrapping it says "light cured certification."  That is not the version submitted to ITTF and is not ITTF approved, but you can't see the difference just by looking at the rubbers.  Either version says "338D-1".

My friend started using the "light cured" version of 338D-1 in February and immediately his rating went up about 200 points.  I posted here because was I was observing that his "light cured" LP rubber had very low friction, giving it great spin reversal.

Now flash forward to the present, mid-August.  Another friend has just started playing today with 338D-1.  This friend, who is actually a much better (and very experienced) player, is using the legal version of 338D-1; that is, his version has not been light cured.  What I can report is that the difference between "light cured" and "not light cured" is huge.  The regular version of 338D-1 actually has quite a bit of friction.  It behaves more like medium pips, and almost like short pips.  My friend, who is quite skilled at all types of pips play, found that the regular 338D-1 was not all that great at either chopping or soft blocks.  He described it as "more consistent", which of course means "less weird".  For long pips, this isn't necessarily a good thing.

I asked my friend if he could see the difference looking at his "regular 338D-1, compared to the frictionless 338D-1.  He said he could tell the difference by running his thumb over the pips.  With regular 338D-1 he could fill the friction, while with the light cured version, his thumb just glides over the pips.

This was my first chance to do a side-by-side comparison between "light cured" and regular (legal) versions of 338D-1.  They are very different animals.  Anyway, I just wanted to report on this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2018 at 4:04pm
In normal, "Large pips" LPs are more trickier than "Small pips" LPs.  Dtecs /  Dragon Talon are large pips. Then, the 388D-1 "長膠王" (large pips),  actually is 338d-1 quattro allround edition.


Edited by Egghead - 04/27/2018 at 4:15pm
Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2018 at 12:10pm
Egghead:

This is what I bought:
===============
What I bought is "Small pips".
What you mentioned is "Large pips".




Edited by skip3119 - 04/27/2018 at 12:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2018 at 11:59am
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

Did the matches closer than before?
===================
I have played only 6 players last night.  Couldn't tell if I gained any advantage.

Although I have played regular Dawei 388D-1 for 4 years, I have played this light-cured version
for only one night.  Probably a little bit adjustment is needed before I can realize the advantage.
The friction is certainly lower than the regular version.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2018 at 11:12am
Did the matches closer than before?


Edited by Egghead - 04/27/2018 at 11:13am
Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2018 at 10:08am
Originally posted by kevo kevo wrote:

Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Egghead:
Do you think this light-cured 388D-1 plays better than regular 388D-1?
(benfb swear by it.)
===========
I paid $34.23 for 5 sheets ($6.85 per sheet), the money (via Paypal) was sent to the Agent.
The Agent would then buy the rubber and ship to me.
The final cost is unknown, because I don't know how much the Agent will charge me for his service.
(I was unsuccessful to buy directly from Taobao, it never took me to the check-out, tried for 2 hours.)
=================
Received the Dawei 388D-1 (light cured) rubber today.
It has ITTF logo on the package, and ITTF logo on the rubber.
The agent charged me $21 (shipping/handling/services).
Total cost of 5 sheets:  $34.23+$21.00 = $55.23. Or $11.05 per sheet.
If you just buy 1 sheet, it will be much higher than $11.05.
If you buy 10 sheets, then per sheet will be lower than $11.05.

Thanks for the info. Let us know how they play!Big smile
=================
Received the rubber yesterday around 4 PM, put it on.
Played the league beginning at 6:30 PM, yesterday.

Players that I could beat, I still beat them.
The players that I couldn't beat, I still lost to them.

In the end, the skill counts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2018 at 6:19am
Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Egghead:

Do you think this light-cured 388D-1 plays better than regular 388D-1?
(benfb swear by it.)
===========

I paid $34.23 for 5 sheets ($6.85 per sheet), the money (via Paypal) was sent to the Agent.
The Agent would then buy the rubber and ship to me.
The final cost is unknown, because I don't know how much the Agent will charge me for his service.
(I was unsuccessful to buy directly from Taobao, it never took me to the check-out, tried for 2 hours.)

=================

Received the Dawei 388D-1 (light cured) rubber today.
It has ITTF logo on the package, and ITTF logo on the rubber.
The agent charged me $21 (shipping/handling/services).

Total cost of 5 sheets:  $34.23+$21.00 = $55.23. Or $11.05 per sheet.

If you just buy 1 sheet, it will be much higher than $11.05.
If you buy 10 sheets, then per sheet will be lower than $11.05.

Thanks for the info. Let us know how they play!Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/26/2018 at 7:43pm
Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Egghead:

Do you think this light-cured 388D-1 plays better than regular 388D-1?
(benfb swear by it.)
===========

I paid $34.23 for 5 sheets ($6.85 per sheet), the money (via Paypal) was sent to the Agent.
The Agent would then buy the rubber and ship to me.
The final cost is unknown, because I don't know how much the Agent will charge me for his service.
(I was unsuccessful to buy directly from Taobao, it never took me to the check-out, tried for 2 hours.)

=================

Received the Dawei 388D-1 (light cured) rubber today.
It has ITTF logo on the package, and ITTF logo on the rubber.
The agent charged me $21 (shipping/handling/services).

Total cost of 5 sheets:  $34.23+$21.00 = $55.23. Or $11.05 per sheet.

If you just buy 1 sheet, it will be much higher than $11.05.
If you buy 10 sheets, then per sheet will be lower than $11.05.

I'm pretty sure the ITTF approval logos are for the version that is not light-cured and that the light-curing is done post-manufacturing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/26/2018 at 3:46pm
Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Egghead:

Do you think this light-cured 388D-1 plays better than regular 388D-1?
(benfb swear by it.)
===========

I paid $34.23 for 5 sheets ($6.85 per sheet), the money (via Paypal) was sent to the Agent.
The Agent would then buy the rubber and ship to me.
The final cost is unknown, because I don't know how much the Agent will charge me for his service.
(I was unsuccessful to buy directly from Taobao, it never took me to the check-out, tried for 2 hours.)

=================

Received the Dawei 388D-1 (light cured) rubber today.
It has ITTF logo on the package, and ITTF logo on the rubber.
The agent charged me $21 (shipping/handling/services).

Total cost of 5 sheets:  $34.23+$21.00 = $55.23. Or $11.05 per sheet.

If you just buy 1 sheet, it will be much higher than $11.05.
If you buy 10 sheets, then per sheet will be lower than $11.05.


Edited by skip3119 - 04/26/2018 at 3:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qpskfec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/08/2018 at 4:08pm
Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Originally posted by qpskfec qpskfec wrote:


Based on this, I would recommend trying Dr Evil. It's technically a SP rubber that is approved for usatt hardbat competition. It has some LP like properties when blocking against loop and is an excellent chopping rubber. high balls can be attacked easily. This is a good rubber to try on your way to finding out whether you really want to end up with LP because its very easy to play with.

It's a $10 rubber, so cheap to try. I have it on a blade to do some chopping for fun every so often.


There's a rubber called Dr. Evil ?  Seriously ?  As in the character from Austin Powers ? hehehe

Please tell me it has this on the packaging ...








If Dr Evil and Mini Me were on the packaging, it wouldn't be $10 anymore.

A sheet would cost ......... A Billion Dollars
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/08/2018 at 11:28am
Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:


No access to a robot, and I cannot afford to buy one. I'm trying to convince a fellow club-member to practice with me, regularly.

At first, just ask your club-member to loop to you bh and you block (clop-block after you feel comfortable with blocking) back to him (same side). You club-member shall like it. No kidding, my coach forced me to practice this with my teammate for few months.
In term of "Another thing - Now with the LPs on the BH, I'm not playing as much on my FH... Even with balls played plumb to the FH, I now tend to crab, and play on my BH...", watching one of the Song Liu matches, may give you an idea.

Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/08/2018 at 1:16am
Originally posted by qpskfec qpskfec wrote:


Based on this, I would recommend trying Dr Evil. It's technically a SP rubber that is approved for usatt hardbat competition. It has some LP like properties when blocking against loop and is an excellent chopping rubber. high balls can be attacked easily. This is a good rubber to try on your way to finding out whether you really want to end up with LP because its very easy to play with.

It's a $10 rubber, so cheap to try. I have it on a blade to do some chopping for fun every so often.

There's a rubber called Dr. Evil ?  Seriously ?  As in the character from Austin Powers ? hehehe

Please tell me it has this on the packaging ...





Edited by Veet - 04/08/2018 at 1:28am
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"On my back-hand, I want to rely most on the ability to control the ball (place it where-ever I want to), spin (chop/push on and away from the table), and whack the ball away, when a CLEAR/PLUM opportunity to do so arises. On the FH-side - I'd be a tad more aggressive. Think of me as a right-handed boxer - using the left-hand (BH in TT) to jab-jab-jab, and then deliver the know-out with the right (FH in TT)"

Based on this, I would recommend trying Dr Evil. It's technically a SP rubber that is approved for usatt hardbat competition. It has some LP like properties when blocking against loop and is an excellent chopping rubber. high balls can be attacked easily. This is a good rubber to try on your way to finding out whether you really want to end up with LP because its very easy to play with.

It's a $10 rubber, so cheap to try. I have it on a blade to do some chopping for fun every so often.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2018 at 1:18pm
Ultimately, you might want to try some different BH rubbers.  LP with different amount of friction, or short pips, or even anti.  However, I would hesitate to do too much equipment change until you've spent some time learning the basics of your current setup.  How long have you been working with this?  Changing from smooth to LP is a pretty long process for most people.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2018 at 3:17am
Thanks BenFB

Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

I don't play with long pips, but I spend a lot of time playing against LP, and I've even tough some people how to use them.  So this is my two cents worth of advice:

First, the style of play you use is going to depend a lot upon your choice of rubber and your personality.  In my club, for example, we've got a couple of people that have LP with a modest amount of friction.  Their defense isn't as good (harder to block strong loops), but they can attack more and create more aggressive situations.  At the other extreme, we've got the guy I mentioned early in this thread with the illegal frictionless LP.  Interestingly, he's doesn't play the pushblocker style (which is what I usually association with frictionless LP), but uses a mix of true off-the-table chopping with punches from near the table.  Then we've got another guy with sort of "average" LP and he does a lot of chop blocks near the table and also some aggressive kill shots (hard to make, even hard to return).


So, here's what - Based on my play-style, when I was using regular inverted rubbers, I don't think I fall into any conventional category per se.. I do push (over and away from the table), and I do block, but I don't think I consider myself to be a push/blocker. I do chop (over and away from the table), but I don't think I'm a chopper - I will let it rip, when I see a CLEAR opportunity. On the FH, I will top-spin/loop, with a lot of spin, when I see a CLEAR opportunity to do so. However, due to issues with my elbow, shoulder, and various aches and pains, I've kind of drawn myself into a shell, scared to hit the big shots, and now not doing so, more out of habit (Which I now want to break)

On my back-hand, I want to rely most on the ability to control the ball (place it where-ever I want to), spin (chop/push on and away from the table), and whack the ball away, when a CLEAR/PLUM opportunity to do so arises. On the FH-side - I'd be a tad more aggressive. Think of me as a right-handed boxer - using the left-hand (BH in TT) to jab-jab-jab, and then deliver the know-out with the right (FH in TT)

Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

So my advice is that if some strokes aren't working for you, then drop them (unless you want to switch rubbers or style).  Experiment with lots of stuff and see what works for you.

This would mean eliminating almost all my BH  Cry

Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

While leads to my next point.  I've always felt that LP play requires a better "feel" for the ball than looping.  You should spend a lot of time just hitting variety of shots.  Ideal would be a practice partner that can keep putting the ball back with heavy top spin, light top spin, dead, and push, while you test out various crazy shots.  Perhaps a robot would work too.

No access to a robot, and I cannot afford to buy one. I'm trying to convince a fellow club-member to practice with me, regularly.

Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

As for the part about becoming over-dependent on the LP.  That's a common problem; it's basically a crutch because the LP rubber can be more forgiving in the lack of skill in reading spin.  Even so, it's not wise.  For you, the choice to use your LP or smooth side (when you have that choice) should be a tactical decision based on what you think will cause the most problems for your opponent.  Doing this right is a matter of self-discipline.  Good luck.

Yes, the LP has become a crutch of sorts. I've started playing with it, due to several issues (read above). I'm even trying to twiddle, with very limited success.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kakapo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2018 at 2:40am
Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

I don't play with long pips, but I spend a lot of time playing against LP, and I've even tough some people how to use them.  So this is my two cents worth of advice:

First, the style of play you use is going to depend a lot upon your choice of rubber and your personality.  In my club, for example, we've got a couple of people that have LP with a modest amount of friction.  Their defense isn't as good (harder to block strong loops), but they can attack more and create more aggressive situations.  At the other extreme, we've got the guy I mentioned early in this thread with the illegal frictionless LP.  Interestingly, he's doesn't play the pushblocker style (which is what I usually association with frictionless LP), but uses a mix of true off-the-table chopping with punches from near the table.  Then we've got another guy with sort of "average" LP and he does a lot of chop blocks near the table and also some aggressive kill shots (hard to make, even hard to return).

So my advice is that if some strokes aren't working for you, then drop them (unless you want to switch rubbers or style).  Experiment with lots of stuff and see what works for you.

While leads to my next point.  I've always felt that LP play requires a better "feel" for the ball than looping.  You should spend a lot of time just hitting variety of shots.  Ideal would be a practice partner that can keep putting the ball back with heavy top spin, light top spin, dead, and push, while you test out various crazy shots.  Perhaps a robot would work too.

As for the part about becoming over-dependent on the LP.  That's a common problem; it's basically a crutch because the LP rubber can be more forgiving in the lack of skill in reading spin.  Even so, it's not wise.  For you, the choice to use your LP or smooth side (when you have that choice) should be a tactical decision based on what you think will cause the most problems for your opponent.  Doing this right is a matter of self-discipline.  Good luck.

Indeed, a robot is very useful.
accoustic carbon inner,fastarc G1 max, feint soft 1,5mm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2018 at 2:19am
I don't play with long pips, but I spend a lot of time playing against LP, and I've even tough some people how to use them.  So this is my two cents worth of advice:

First, the style of play you use is going to depend a lot upon your choice of rubber and your personality.  In my club, for example, we've got a couple of people that have LP with a modest amount of friction.  Their defense isn't as good (harder to block strong loops), but they can attack more and create more aggressive situations.  At the other extreme, we've got the guy I mentioned early in this thread with the illegal frictionless LP.  Interestingly, he's doesn't play the pushblocker style (which is what I usually association with frictionless LP), but uses a mix of true off-the-table chopping with punches from near the table.  Then we've got another guy with sort of "average" LP and he does a lot of chop blocks near the table and also some aggressive kill shots (hard to make, even hard to return).

So my advice is that if some strokes aren't working for you, then drop them (unless you want to switch rubbers or style).  Experiment with lots of stuff and see what works for you.

While leads to my next point.  I've always felt that LP play requires a better "feel" for the ball than looping.  You should spend a lot of time just hitting variety of shots.  Ideal would be a practice partner that can keep putting the ball back with heavy top spin, light top spin, dead, and push, while you test out various crazy shots.  Perhaps a robot would work too.

As for the part about becoming over-dependent on the LP.  That's a common problem; it's basically a crutch because the LP rubber can be more forgiving in the lack of skill in reading spin.  Even so, it's not wise.  For you, the choice to use your LP or smooth side (when you have that choice) should be a tactical decision based on what you think will cause the most problems for your opponent.  Doing this right is a matter of self-discipline.  Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2018 at 1:16am
Hi,

I've been watching videos too... over-and-over again, a lot of times, in slow-mo... However, when I replicate the strokes/techniques, I don't get the desired results...

Passive blocking topspins just results in long returns, if I close the angle a bit, it shoots into the net... Same with slow loops - irrespective of whether they're spinny or loose, they either drop straight off the blade, onto the table, or into the net.

Now, here's what's baffling me...

Last evening, I was playing against someone (who plays at my level), and I lost 2 closely fought games against him. I was about to start the 3, when the player who's Dtecs I tried, walked in. This time he had another spare setup, which he offered me to try... It was an old Joyner-H, a dead Mark V, and a Yasaka Phantom 007ox.  Now, with this setup, I won 3 games (and the set). Most of my shot (including the ones I saw in the videos) landed, and that too with the desired results... Infact, my opponent got so frustrated in the 5th, that he just started swinging/slapping blindly at anything, mostly hitting the ball into the net or 50 feet into the air. He lost the last one on 4 or 5.

Then, I switched back to my setup; this time, against another player - Same damn issues...  Blocks against topspins would go long... Pushes would land on the table, but high, and empty enough, so that the player across the table could easily put it away. I

On the FH side - Looping is superb with the Vega Euro + Defplay V3... Very spinny, and with good curve...Although, there's not so much pace. I still find it pretty bouncy. Passive blocks, once again, shoot off long, almost always...  .However, I've realised, that countering top-spins/loops, is a lot easier, and almost always, lands on the table.. I never had issues blocking with inverted rubbers.. Infact, passive blocking with my HN3 was a effortless..

Quite honestly, I can't seem to understand whats going on, and/or where I'm going so wrong... Players (even a level or 2 under me) are having a complete field-day, playing me.

I can't keep self-doubting, and blaming it all on my technique .... Maybe the pogo is good LP for beginners... Maybe the Defplay Senso V3 is a good blade.. But, I am beginning to thing that the Pogo + Defplay + Xiom Vega Europe = DISASTER

I have another blade (XVT Blasa Hinoki carbon, LP (Dawei 388D-1), and inverted (Focus Snipe 3), which I had ordered, along with the above... I'm wondering if I should try another combo.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JacekGM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2018 at 9:59pm
I have noticed that my results with LP on BH are better when i try to be aggressive with the LP side, whenever possible. That means for my game maybe about 30% of the time. Relying on passive blocks only is just an easy pray for any reasonable opponent.
(1) Juic SBA (Fl, 85 g) with Bluefire JP3 (red max) on FH and 0.6 mm DR N Desperado on BH; (2) Yinhe T7 (Fl, 87 g) with Bluefire M3 (red 2.0) on FH and 0.6 mm 755 on BH.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUCKYLOOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2018 at 9:22pm
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

...
Yesterday, I got totally CREAMED by 2 players, who play at my level... Now, I don't find it difficult to keep the ball in play.. Now, the real challenge is to put EFFECTIVE balls... I noticed, that both the above players, gave me light-to-heavy loops/top-spins. .  Even when I did manage to return (which was not too often), my returns seemed to be empty. The players had little or no trouble, no matter, how I returned...Both players, pushed very little.. I even twiddled to generate spin, but it did not work ..One player, actually commented that now he found it easier to play against me (using LPs), as compared to when I was using inverted... Which is true, cause, with the inverted, I would typically win 5 out of 7 games against him.
....

Try to learn to cut / roll the ball barely clean the net. The point is to have the ball not going forward / bouncing high.

Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

....
Another thing - Now with the LPs on the BH, I'm not playing as much on my FH... Even with balls played plumb to the FH, I now tend to crab, and play on my BH...

Blocking/returning top-spins EFFECTIVELY, is a major pain-point. Most of the blocks shot-off long, if I block with an open-face (thinking that I would get reversal), or land into the net, if I keep the face shut, even a bit.
...

You need to haven't a training partner to correct / learn both techniques.


I just learned by watching videos, over and over until I understood what they were doing.
Hntr Fl / 4H & BH Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0
Yinhe T-2 / 4H Xiom Sig Pro 2 2.0 BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max
Gam DC / 4H DHS Hurricane 8 39deg 2.1 BH GD CC LP OX
HARDBAT / Hock 3 ply / Frenshp Dr Evil OX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2018 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

...
Yesterday, I got totally CREAMED by 2 players, who play at my level... Now, I don't find it difficult to keep the ball in play.. Now, the real challenge is to put EFFECTIVE balls... I noticed, that both the above players, gave me light-to-heavy loops/top-spins. .  Even when I did manage to return (which was not too often), my returns seemed to be empty. The players had little or no trouble, no matter, how I returned...Both players, pushed very little.. I even twiddled to generate spin, but it did not work ..One player, actually commented that now he found it easier to play against me (using LPs), as compared to when I was using inverted... Which is true, cause, with the inverted, I would typically win 5 out of 7 games against him.
....

Try to learn to cut / roll the ball barely clean the net. The point is to have the ball not going forward / bouncing high.

Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

....
Another thing - Now with the LPs on the BH, I'm not playing as much on my FH... Even with balls played plumb to the FH, I now tend to crab, and play on my BH...

Blocking/returning top-spins EFFECTIVELY, is a major pain-point. Most of the blocks shot-off long, if I block with an open-face (thinking that I would get reversal), or land into the net, if I keep the face shut, even a bit.
...

You need to have a training partner to correct / learn both techniques.
Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2018 at 3:56am
 Something I've noticed, and I don't know if it's something to do with my LP SETUP, or whether it'd technique... If I play REALLY close to the table and keep the blade closeish to me, when playing BH (LP side) then I endup wining more points... Even blocking see.s to be better. Something to do my magnetic personality?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mog1111 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 3:20pm
I currently use palio ck531 a which I try and attack with with 0.6mm sponge, I guess hellfire would be better for me
than dtecs
to try and attack
Celero Wood first outing tonight!

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FH: Tenergy 05fx 1.9mm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pushblocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 2:57pm
Originally posted by mhnh007 mhnh007 wrote:

Did any one try Sauer Tröger Hellfire?  Is it on par with D-Grass, or GD?
Hellfire is much slower than DtecS. It has more control but less reversal and the trajectory of Hellfire is high, while Dtecs is medium low..
2010 Florida State Champion

Dr. Neubauer Firewall Plus Blade with DHS G666 1.5mm on forehand Giant Dragon Talon OX with removed glue sheet on backhand
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